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Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion [Kõva köide]

(the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design, Denmark)
  • Formaat: Hardback, 200 pages, kõrgus x laius x paksus: 234x156x15 mm, kaal: 463 g, 31 bw illus
  • Sari: Dress and Fashion Research
  • Ilmumisaeg: 09-Feb-2017
  • Kirjastus: Bloomsbury Academic
  • ISBN-10: 1474249108
  • ISBN-13: 9781474249102
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  • Formaat: Hardback, 200 pages, kõrgus x laius x paksus: 234x156x15 mm, kaal: 463 g, 31 bw illus
  • Sari: Dress and Fashion Research
  • Ilmumisaeg: 09-Feb-2017
  • Kirjastus: Bloomsbury Academic
  • ISBN-10: 1474249108
  • ISBN-13: 9781474249102
Teised raamatud teemal:

We dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, which has complicated the basic dynamic of identity displays, creating tension between personal statements and social performances.

Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption by examining a diverse series of case studies, from fashion icons in their nineties and the paradoxical rebellion in 'normcore', to soccer Jerseys in Kenya and subcultural heavy metal band T-shirts in Europe. Through these cases, the role of time, gender, age memory, novelty, copying, the body and resistance are considered within the context of the contemporary fashion scene. Offering a fresh approach to the subject by readdressing Fred Davis' seminal concept of 'identity ambivalence' in Fashion, Culture and Identity (1992), Mackinney-Valentin argues that we are in an epoch of 'status ambivalence', in which fashioning one's own identity has become increasingly complicated.

Arvustused

Fashioning Identity provides fresh and compelling insights into fashion as a form of identity, both individually and collectively, across cultures from Copenhagen to Kenya. Offering insightful analysis and grounded case studies of contemporary fashion trends, from normcore and counterfeit fashion to the ubiquity of leopard print and soccer shirts, the book illustrates the universal symbolic construction of identity through fashion. This is a must-read and valuable companion for students and scholars of fashion alike. -- Anne Peirson-Smith, City University of Hong Kong Fashioning Identity provides a highly accessible, straightforward and original account of the central issues surrounding identity in fashion, from heavy metal bands to globalized soccer uniforms. This book will be of interest and use to all students of the subject. -- Malcolm Barnard, Loughborough University

Muu info

Revaluates the concept of sartorial displays of identity in the 21st century fashion system, exploring the ways in which the globalised, digital world of fast fashion has created an era of 'status ambivalence' for the way we dress
List of Illustrations
viii
Preface x
Acknowledgments xiii
1 Introduction: Status Ambivalence and Fashion Flows
1(18)
Politics of appearance
2(1)
Dressing the part
3(2)
Sartorial dialectic of identity
5(2)
Fashion flows
7(1)
Vertical flow
8(1)
Horizontal flow
9(3)
Upward flow
12(1)
Scattered flow
12(2)
Fashioning identity
14(1)
Chapter outlines
15(4)
2 Yesterday's Tomorrow: Fashion and Time
19(12)
The ambiguous now
21(2)
Between dowdy and hideous
23(1)
Style revivals
24(3)
Old fashion
27(2)
Forever after
29(2)
3 Perfectly Wrong
31(14)
Taxonomy of age
33(1)
Corporeal patina
34(1)
Logic of wrong
35(2)
Senior moment
37(3)
Staged ageing
40(1)
Age ambiguity
40(1)
Conspicuous poverty
41(2)
Radical permanence
43(2)
4 Copy Chic and the Ambivalent Original
45(14)
Modes of copying
47(3)
Fashion IPR
50(2)
`Tis the season
52(2)
The Chinatown tote
54(3)
Copy chic?
57(2)
5 Sartorial Shrugs and Other Fashion Understatements
59(21)
Sartorial shrugs
60(2)
Inconspicuous consumption
62(2)
Fashionable displays of the ordinary
64(2)
Deliberate lagging
66(2)
Staged casualness
68(1)
The fashion nun
69(1)
Biological capital
70(2)
Fashioned bodies
72(1)
Raw beauty
73(4)
Lazy chic
77(1)
Identity assemblage
78(2)
6 Not So Fast Fashion: The New Perseverance
80(15)
The new speed of fashion?
81(3)
Gradual change
84(1)
Spot on
85(3)
Forever new
88(2)
Beyond saturation?
90(3)
Fashionable implications
93(2)
7 The Devil's Playground: Fashion and Subcultural Identity
95(23)
Metal visual culture
97(2)
The T-shirt
99(1)
Fashion and subculture
100(3)
Subcultural persistence
103(2)
The band T-shirt
105(2)
Copenhellsters vs. Copenhipsters
107(4)
Mass-niche
111(1)
Multigenerational subcultures
112(3)
Humor and inverted snobbery
115(1)
Next step for fashioning subcultural identity
116(2)
8 Trans-global Narratives
118(22)
"B" is for ball
120(3)
Soccer history
123(1)
Cultural exchange
124(1)
World dress
125(2)
The soccer jersey as fashion
127(3)
Fashioning goals
130(2)
"Welcome to our club"
132(3)
Transnational fandom
135(1)
Individualization
136(2)
Cultural ambivalence
138(2)
9 Fashioning Zeitgeist
140(15)
Fashion as a mirror
141(1)
Low-calorie realism
142(2)
Warp and weft
144(3)
The great outdoors
147(3)
Blue collar chic
150(2)
Gender and sexuality
152(1)
Is there a "right" Zeitgeist?
153(2)
Afterword 155(4)
References 159(18)
Index 177
Maria Mackinney-Valentin is an Associate Professor at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design, Denmark.

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