| Historical Milestones and Important Dress Codes |
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| Introduction |
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1 | (24) |
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Chapter One Encoding Status |
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25 | (13) |
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Concerning the Excessive Display of Trunk Hose, Crowns, Ruffled Collars, Velvet, and Crimson Silk |
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Chapter Two Self-Fashioning |
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38 | (8) |
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Regarding Togas, Gowns, Robes, and Tailored Clothing |
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Chapter Three Signs Of Faith |
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46 | (21) |
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On the Matter of Dresses with Indulgently Long Trains, Earrings and Other Vanities, and on the Habits of Women Religious---Inspired by Christian Dior |
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67 | (12) |
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On the Subject of Plate Armor and Associated Undergarments, Masks, and Costumes |
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PART TWO FROM OPULENCE TO ELEGANCE |
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Chapter Five The Great Masculine Renunciation |
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79 | (21) |
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On the Frock Coat, Tartan and Kilt, Civilian Uniforms, and Powdered Wigs, Both Large and Modest |
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Chapter Six Style And Status |
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100 | (9) |
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The Importance of the Well-Dressed Man's Basic Black Suit and the Elegant Woman's Eight Daily Toilettes; the Prevalence of Silk and Velvet Waistcoats and the Art of the Perfectly Tied Cravat |
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Chapter Seven Sex And Simplicity |
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109 | (17) |
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The Merits of Tailored Coats, Whaleboned Corsets, Full Skirts and Petticoats, and Neoclassical Gowns |
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Chapter Eight The "Rational Dress" Movement |
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126 | (17) |
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The Inconveniences of Bloomers, Tight-laced Corsets, Starched Collared Shirts, and Suits with Short Trousers |
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Chapter Nine Flapper Feminism |
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143 | (14) |
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The Scandal of Drop-waisted Shifts, Bobbed Hair, Cupid's Bow Lips, Dancing Flats, Bakelite Earrings, and the Symington Side Lacer |
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PART THREE POWER DRESSING |
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Chapter Ten Slaves To Fashion? |
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157 | (11) |
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The Allure and Danger of Dressing Above One's Condition in Pumps with Silver Buckles, a Hat Cocked in the Macaroni Fashion, or a Jack Johnson Plaid Suit |
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Chapter Eleven From Rags To Resistance |
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168 | (28) |
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Seen on the Scene: Zoot Suits, Cotillion Gowns, Pressed Hair, and Sunday Best; Afros and Overalls, Dashikis, Black Turtlenecks, and Black Leather Coats |
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Chapter Twelve Sagging And Subordination |
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196 | (25) |
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Represent the Race! Don't Wear Sagging Pants, Gang Colors, Hoodie Sweatshirts, or Decorative Orthodontic Devices (aka Grillz) |
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PART FOUR POLITICS AND PERSONALITY |
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Chapter Thirteen How To Dress Like A Woman |
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221 | (40) |
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Your Personal Best: Teased, Curled, or Styled Hair, Lipstick, Foundation, Eyeliner, Blush, Bunny Ears and Satin Maillot, High Heels. Overdoing it: Bared Clavicles, Yoga Pants, Miniskirts, "Smart" Jeans. In Re. Ladies in the Law: Skirts, Nylons, Makeup, Nothing Low-Cut, a Feminized Morning Suit |
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Chapter Fourteen Recoding Gender |
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261 | (12) |
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Clothing Not Belonging to Your Sex: Prom Night Tuxedoes, Blue (or Pink) for Boys, Pink (or Blue) for Girls, Miniskirts, Tutus, and Tailored Suits |
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Chapter Fifteen Piercing The Veil |
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273 | (22) |
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Outlawed as Indecent or Condemned as Sacrilegious: Headscarves, Burkas, Burkinis, Bikinis, Sexy Sheitels, Hip Hijabs, and Covergirl Makeup |
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PART FIVE RETAILORED EXPECTATIONS |
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Chapter Sixteen Merit Badges |
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295 | (34) |
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Appropriate for the Workplace: Red-Soled Louboutins, a 21 Club Tie, a Blue Blazer, the Preppy Look, Red Sneakers, a Patagonia Vest, a Gray or Black T-shirt. Inappropriate: Designer Dresses, High Heels, Suits |
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Chapter Seventeen Artifice And Appropriation |
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329 | (26) |
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Outfits for Cultural Tourism: Bleached Blonde Hair, Dreadlocks, Hoop Earrings, a Cheongsam, a Pink Polo, an Abacost, European Luxury Tailoring |
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| Conclusion: Decoding Dress Codes |
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355 | (18) |
| Epilogue: Dress Codes Stripped Bare |
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373 | (2) |
| Notes |
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375 | (40) |
| Selected Bibliography |
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415 | (6) |
| Acknowledgments |
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421 | (4) |
| Index |
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425 | (16) |
| Image Credits |
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441 | |