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Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History [Kõva köide]

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  • Formaat: Hardback, 464 pages, kõrgus x laius x paksus: 229x152x30 mm, kaal: 651 g, Illustrations
  • Ilmumisaeg: 09-Feb-2021
  • Kirjastus: Simon & Schuster
  • ISBN-10: 1501180061
  • ISBN-13: 9781501180064
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  • Hind: 42,70 €*
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  • Formaat: Hardback, 464 pages, kõrgus x laius x paksus: 229x152x30 mm, kaal: 651 g, Illustrations
  • Ilmumisaeg: 09-Feb-2021
  • Kirjastus: Simon & Schuster
  • ISBN-10: 1501180061
  • ISBN-13: 9781501180064
A law professor and cultural critic offers an eye-opening exploration of the laws of fashion throughout history, from the middle ages to the present day, examining the canons, mores and customs of clothing rules that we often take for granted. 50,000 first printing. Illustrations.

A revelatory exploration of fashion through the ages that asks what our clothing reveals about ourselves and our society.

Dress codes are as old as clothing itself. For centuries, clothing has been a wearable status symbol; fashion, a weapon in struggles for social change; and dress codes, a way to maintain political control. Merchants who dressed like princes and butchers&; wives wearing gem-encrusted crowns were public enemies in medieval societies structured by social hierarchy and defined by spectacle. In Tudor England, silk, velvet, and fur were reserved for the nobility and ballooning pants called &;trunk hose&; could be considered a menace to good order. The Renaissance era Florentine patriarch Cosimo de Medici captured the power of fashion and dress codes when he remarked, &;One can make a gentleman from two yards of red cloth.&; Dress codes evolved along with the social and political ideals of the day, but they always reflected struggles for power and status. In the 1700s, South Carolina&;s &;Negro Act&; made it illegal for Black people to dress &;above their condition.&; In the 1920s, the bobbed hair and form-fitting dresses worn by free-spirited flappers were banned in workplaces throughout the United States and in the 1940s the baggy zoot suits favored by Black and Latino men caused riots in cities from coast to coast.

Even in today&;s more informal world, dress codes still determine what we wear, when we wear it&;and what our clothing means. People lose their jobs for wearing braided hair, long fingernails, large earrings, beards, and tattoos or refusing to wear a suit and tie or make-up and high heels. In some cities, wearing sagging pants is a crime. And even when there are no written rules, implicit dress codes still influence opportunities and social mobility. Silicon Valley CEOs wear t-shirts and flip flops, setting the tone for an entire industry: women wearing fashionable dresses or high heels face ridicule in the tech world and some venture capitalists refuse to invest in any company run by someone wearing a suit.

In Dress Codes, law professor and cultural critic Richard Thompson Ford presents an insightful and entertaining history of the laws of fashion from the middle ages to the present day, a walk down history&;s red carpet to uncover and examine the canons, mores, and customs of clothing&;rules that we often take for granted. After reading Dress Codes, you&;ll never think of fashion as superficial again&;and getting dressed will never be the same.
Historical Milestones and Important Dress Codes xii
Introduction 1(24)
PART ONE STATUS SYMBOLS
Chapter One Encoding Status
25(13)
Concerning the Excessive Display of Trunk Hose, Crowns, Ruffled Collars, Velvet, and Crimson Silk
Chapter Two Self-Fashioning
38(8)
Regarding Togas, Gowns, Robes, and Tailored Clothing
Chapter Three Signs Of Faith
46(21)
On the Matter of Dresses with Indulgently Long Trains, Earrings and Other Vanities, and on the Habits of Women Religious---Inspired by Christian Dior
Chapter Four Sex Symbols
67(12)
On the Subject of Plate Armor and Associated Undergarments, Masks, and Costumes
PART TWO FROM OPULENCE TO ELEGANCE
Chapter Five The Great Masculine Renunciation
79(21)
On the Frock Coat, Tartan and Kilt, Civilian Uniforms, and Powdered Wigs, Both Large and Modest
Chapter Six Style And Status
100(9)
The Importance of the Well-Dressed Man's Basic Black Suit and the Elegant Woman's Eight Daily Toilettes; the Prevalence of Silk and Velvet Waistcoats and the Art of the Perfectly Tied Cravat
Chapter Seven Sex And Simplicity
109(17)
The Merits of Tailored Coats, Whaleboned Corsets, Full Skirts and Petticoats, and Neoclassical Gowns
Chapter Eight The "Rational Dress" Movement
126(17)
The Inconveniences of Bloomers, Tight-laced Corsets, Starched Collared Shirts, and Suits with Short Trousers
Chapter Nine Flapper Feminism
143(14)
The Scandal of Drop-waisted Shifts, Bobbed Hair, Cupid's Bow Lips, Dancing Flats, Bakelite Earrings, and the Symington Side Lacer
PART THREE POWER DRESSING
Chapter Ten Slaves To Fashion?
157(11)
The Allure and Danger of Dressing Above One's Condition in Pumps with Silver Buckles, a Hat Cocked in the Macaroni Fashion, or a Jack Johnson Plaid Suit
Chapter Eleven From Rags To Resistance
168(28)
Seen on the Scene: Zoot Suits, Cotillion Gowns, Pressed Hair, and Sunday Best; Afros and Overalls, Dashikis, Black Turtlenecks, and Black Leather Coats
Chapter Twelve Sagging And Subordination
196(25)
Represent the Race! Don't Wear Sagging Pants, Gang Colors, Hoodie Sweatshirts, or Decorative Orthodontic Devices (aka Grillz)
PART FOUR POLITICS AND PERSONALITY
Chapter Thirteen How To Dress Like A Woman
221(40)
Your Personal Best: Teased, Curled, or Styled Hair, Lipstick, Foundation, Eyeliner, Blush, Bunny Ears and Satin Maillot, High Heels. Overdoing it: Bared Clavicles, Yoga Pants, Miniskirts, "Smart" Jeans. In Re. Ladies in the Law: Skirts, Nylons, Makeup, Nothing Low-Cut, a Feminized Morning Suit
Chapter Fourteen Recoding Gender
261(12)
Clothing Not Belonging to Your Sex: Prom Night Tuxedoes, Blue (or Pink) for Boys, Pink (or Blue) for Girls, Miniskirts, Tutus, and Tailored Suits
Chapter Fifteen Piercing The Veil
273(22)
Outlawed as Indecent or Condemned as Sacrilegious: Headscarves, Burkas, Burkinis, Bikinis, Sexy Sheitels, Hip Hijabs, and Covergirl Makeup
PART FIVE RETAILORED EXPECTATIONS
Chapter Sixteen Merit Badges
295(34)
Appropriate for the Workplace: Red-Soled Louboutins, a 21 Club Tie, a Blue Blazer, the Preppy Look, Red Sneakers, a Patagonia Vest, a Gray or Black T-shirt. Inappropriate: Designer Dresses, High Heels, Suits
Chapter Seventeen Artifice And Appropriation
329(26)
Outfits for Cultural Tourism: Bleached Blonde Hair, Dreadlocks, Hoop Earrings, a Cheongsam, a Pink Polo, an Abacost, European Luxury Tailoring
Conclusion: Decoding Dress Codes 355(18)
Epilogue: Dress Codes Stripped Bare 373(2)
Notes 375(40)
Selected Bibliography 415(6)
Acknowledgments 421(4)
Index 425(16)
Image Credits 441