Acknowledgments |
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viii | |
Introduction |
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1 | (12) |
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PART I Late Nineteenth Century-1960s |
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13 | (4) |
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1 Mr. Oscar Wilde on Woman's Dress Oscar Wilde |
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17 | (2) |
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2 Literary and Other Notes (excerpt) Oscar Wilde |
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19 | (4) |
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3 Philosophic Fashions: Who Fell Asleep on the King's Highway? Dame Rogue [ Louise Norton] |
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23 | (4) |
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4 Philosophic Fashions: Trouser-Talk (excerpt) Dame Rogue [ Louise Norton] |
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27 | (4) |
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5 Philosophic Fashions: The Importance of Being Dressed Dame Rogue [ Louise Norton] |
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31 | (4) |
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6 Feminine Fashions Lois Long |
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35 | (2) |
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7 Feminine Fashions Lois Long |
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37 | (2) |
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8 Copying a Fancy Name Elizabeth Hawes |
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39 | (6) |
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9 News... News... News... Elizabeth Hawes |
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45 | (6) |
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10 Fashions from Paris: A Suit Story at Balenciaga Eugenia Sheppard |
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51 | (2) |
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11 A Mini for Men? Eugenia Sheppard |
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53 | (2) |
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12 A Campaign Issue--Clothes? Eleni Epstein |
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55 | (2) |
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13 Candidates in a Tie on Fashion's Slate Eleni Epstein |
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57 | (4) |
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61 | (4) |
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14 The Wound in the Face Angela Carter |
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65 | (4) |
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15 Feminine Fashions: The Fall Collections II Kennedy Eraser |
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69 | (8) |
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16 Looking with Avedon Susan Sontag |
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77 | (4) |
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17 What Happened to the Afro? Bebe Moore Campbell |
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81 | (6) |
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18 Ralph Lauren's Achievement Holly Brubacb |
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87 | (8) |
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19 In Fashion: Modernism Outmoded Holly Brubacb |
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95 | (8) |
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20 Haute Coiffure de Gel Elizabeth Wilson |
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103 | (4) |
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21 Hippie Heaven Eve Babitz |
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107 | (6) |
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22 Calvinism Unclothed Valerie Steele |
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113 | (6) |
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23 Coming Apart Amy Spindler |
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119 | (6) |
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24 The Once and Future Suit Anne Hollander |
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125 | (4) |
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25 Sexualities Anne Hollander |
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129 | (4) |
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26 The Eastern Bloc Lynn Yaeger |
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133 | (4) |
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27 Avant Guardians Lynn Yaeger |
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137 | (2) |
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28 The Only One Hilton Als |
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139 | (8) |
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29 Buying the Fantasy Hilton Als |
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147 | (4) |
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30 Fashion's Military Fascination: Unsettling, Romantic Esthetic Suzy Menkes |
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151 | (4) |
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PART III Twenty-first Century |
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155 | (4) |
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31 Future, Take Note: Raf Simons Was Here Cathy Horyn |
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159 | (4) |
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32 Hussein Chalayan: Nostalgia for the Future Caroline Evans |
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163 | (6) |
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33 The Misfit Judith Thurman |
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169 | (10) |
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34 Dressed to Thrill: Alexander McQueen at the Met Judith Thurman |
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179 | (4) |
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35 Why I Hate Abercrombie & Fitch (excerpt) DwightA. McBride |
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183 | (10) |
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36 The Mystery Man: Margiela, Be Mine Sarah Mower |
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193 | (4) |
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37 All Hail the Leader of the Fashionable World Robin Givhan |
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197 | (4) |
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38 The Revolution Will Be Branded Vetements Anja Aronowsky Cronberg |
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201 | (4) |
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39 Will I Get a Ticket? A Conversation about Life after Vogue with Lucinda Chambers Anja Aronowsky Cronberg |
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205 | (4) |
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40 Trump vs. the Disappearing Tie Vanessa Friedman |
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209 | (4) |
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41 Suket Dhir, Men's Wear Designer, from Delhi to the World Guy Trebay |
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213 | (4) |
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42 Melania Trump and the Chilling Artifice of Fashion Rhonda Garelick |
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217 | (2) |
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43 Is Wokeness in Fashion Just Another Illusion? Connie Wang |
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219 | (3) |
Sources and Acknowledgments |
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222 | (3) |
Index |
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225 | |