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Fashion Criticism: An Anthology [Pehme köide]

Edited by (Parsons School of Design, The New School, USA)
  • Formaat: Paperback / softback, 208 pages, kõrgus x laius x paksus: 241x183x10 mm, kaal: 460 g
  • Ilmumisaeg: 25-Feb-2021
  • Kirjastus: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
  • ISBN-10: 1350058807
  • ISBN-13: 9781350058804
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  • Formaat: Paperback / softback, 208 pages, kõrgus x laius x paksus: 241x183x10 mm, kaal: 460 g
  • Ilmumisaeg: 25-Feb-2021
  • Kirjastus: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
  • ISBN-10: 1350058807
  • ISBN-13: 9781350058804
This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism on popular culture.

This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism.

Exploring the history of fashion criticism in the English language, this essential work takes readers from the writing published in avant-garde modernist magazines at the beginning of the twentieth century to the fashion criticism of Robin Givhan-the first fashion critic to win a Pulitzer Prize-and of Judith Thurman, a National Book Award winner. It covers the shift in newspapers from the so-called “women's pages” to the contemporary style sections, while unearthing the work of cultural critics and writers on fashion including Susan Sontag and Eve Babitz (Vogue), Bebe Moore Campbell (Ebony), Angela Carter (New Statesman) and Hilton Als (New Yorker).

Examining the gender dynamics of the field and its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in an increasingly visual and digital world. The book argues that fashion criticism occupied a central role in negotiating shifting gender roles as well as shifting understandings of race.

Bringing together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and writings, from Oscar Wilde's editorials in The Woman's World to the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today's proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource for students of fashion studies, media and journalism.

Arvustused

Seven billion humans on the planet clothe or adorn themselves every day. Yet the subject of dress its language; its influence on the way we express our identities, desires, allegiances, aspirations and (in many cases, our servitude) has rarely been considered worthy of serious inquiry. This essential anthology of essays on fashion corrects that oversight ... and it does so with exceptional verve and intelligence. * Judith Thurman, The New Yorker * From Oscar Wildes musing on corsets to Connie Wangs discussion of Wokeness, this dazzling compendium of critical fashion writingwith a sweep of over one hundred yearsis as fun to read as it is intellectually provocative. * Lynn Yaeger, Vogue, US * [ Fashion Criticism: An Anthology] represents a step forward to considering fashion criticism a respected discipline alongside cultural criticism. Moreover, it can be a very useful resource for those who wish to deepen their knowledge on the subject, and it might even help them develop their own critical skills for fashion writing. Eventually, this anthology demonstrates how politics, gender, race, and other socio cultural issues are extremely interconnected with the matters of dress. Fashion criticism can be another way of examining those contexts and enrich the conversation with new, stimulating perspectives. * The Journal of Dress History * Reprints of lesser-known essays (Campbells What Happened to the Afro?), plus essays that use a variety of approaches, from glamorous description (Longs Feminine Fashions), to social theory (Sontags Looking with Avedon), make this a solid primer on cultural criticism and fashion journalism. * Library Journal * A welcome anthology of fashion criticism establishing that writing about fashion can be as influential as designing it. Ranging across late nineteenth century gazettes, twentieth century newspapers and twenty-first century posts, its a key reference work for reading about how fashion measures up. * Alistair ONeill, Central Saint Martins, London, UK *

Muu info

This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism on popular culture.
Acknowledgments viii
Introduction 1(12)
PART I Late Nineteenth Century-1960s
Introduction to PART I
13(4)
1 Mr. Oscar Wilde on Woman's Dress Oscar Wilde
17(2)
2 Literary and Other Notes (excerpt) Oscar Wilde
19(4)
3 Philosophic Fashions: Who Fell Asleep on the King's Highway? Dame Rogue [ Louise Norton]
23(4)
4 Philosophic Fashions: Trouser-Talk (excerpt) Dame Rogue [ Louise Norton]
27(4)
5 Philosophic Fashions: The Importance of Being Dressed Dame Rogue [ Louise Norton]
31(4)
6 Feminine Fashions Lois Long
35(2)
7 Feminine Fashions Lois Long
37(2)
8 Copying a Fancy Name Elizabeth Hawes
39(6)
9 News... News... News... Elizabeth Hawes
45(6)
10 Fashions from Paris: A Suit Story at Balenciaga Eugenia Sheppard
51(2)
11 A Mini for Men? Eugenia Sheppard
53(2)
12 A Campaign Issue--Clothes? Eleni Epstein
55(2)
13 Candidates in a Tie on Fashion's Slate Eleni Epstein
57(4)
PART II 1970s-1990s
Introduction to PART II
61(4)
14 The Wound in the Face Angela Carter
65(4)
15 Feminine Fashions: The Fall Collections II Kennedy Eraser
69(8)
16 Looking with Avedon Susan Sontag
77(4)
17 What Happened to the Afro? Bebe Moore Campbell
81(6)
18 Ralph Lauren's Achievement Holly Brubacb
87(8)
19 In Fashion: Modernism Outmoded Holly Brubacb
95(8)
20 Haute Coiffure de Gel Elizabeth Wilson
103(4)
21 Hippie Heaven Eve Babitz
107(6)
22 Calvinism Unclothed Valerie Steele
113(6)
23 Coming Apart Amy Spindler
119(6)
24 The Once and Future Suit Anne Hollander
125(4)
25 Sexualities Anne Hollander
129(4)
26 The Eastern Bloc Lynn Yaeger
133(4)
27 Avant Guardians Lynn Yaeger
137(2)
28 The Only One Hilton Als
139(8)
29 Buying the Fantasy Hilton Als
147(4)
30 Fashion's Military Fascination: Unsettling, Romantic Esthetic Suzy Menkes
151(4)
PART III Twenty-first Century
Introduction to PART III
155(4)
31 Future, Take Note: Raf Simons Was Here Cathy Horyn
159(4)
32 Hussein Chalayan: Nostalgia for the Future Caroline Evans
163(6)
33 The Misfit Judith Thurman
169(10)
34 Dressed to Thrill: Alexander McQueen at the Met Judith Thurman
179(4)
35 Why I Hate Abercrombie & Fitch (excerpt) DwightA. McBride
183(10)
36 The Mystery Man: Margiela, Be Mine Sarah Mower
193(4)
37 All Hail the Leader of the Fashionable World Robin Givhan
197(4)
38 The Revolution Will Be Branded Vetements Anja Aronowsky Cronberg
201(4)
39 Will I Get a Ticket? A Conversation about Life after Vogue with Lucinda Chambers Anja Aronowsky Cronberg
205(4)
40 Trump vs. the Disappearing Tie Vanessa Friedman
209(4)
41 Suket Dhir, Men's Wear Designer, from Delhi to the World Guy Trebay
213(4)
42 Melania Trump and the Chilling Artifice of Fashion Rhonda Garelick
217(2)
43 Is Wokeness in Fashion Just Another Illusion? Connie Wang
219(3)
Sources and Acknowledgments 222(3)
Index 225
Francesca Granata is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies at Parsons School of Design. She is the author of Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body, and editor of the non-profit journal Fashion Projects.