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E-raamat: Pasta: The Story of a Universal Food

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Ranging from the imperial palaces of ancient China and the bakeries of fourteenth-century Genoa and Naples all the way to the restaurant kitchens of today, Pasta tells a story that will forever change the way you look at your next plate of vermicelli. Pasta has become a ubiquitous food, present in regional diets around the world and available in a host of shapes, sizes, textures, and tastes. Yet, although it has become a mass-produced commodity, it remains uniquely adaptable to innumerable recipes and individual creativity. Pasta: The Story of a Universal Food shows that this enormously popular food has resulted from of a lengthy process of cultural construction and widely diverse knowledge, skills, and techniques. Many myths are intertwined with the history of pasta, particularly the idea that Marco Polo brought pasta back from China and introduced it to Europe. That story, concocted in the early twentieth century by the trade magazine Macaroni Journal, is just one of many fictions umasked here. The true homelands of pasta have been China and Italy. Each gave rise to different but complementary culinary traditions that have spread throughout the world. From China has come pasta made with soft wheat flour, often served in broth with fresh vegetables, finely sliced meat, or chunks of fish or shellfish. Pastasciutta, the Italian style of pasta, is generally made with durum wheat semolina and presented in thick, tomato-based sauces. The history of these traditions, told here in fascinating detail, is interwoven with the legacies of expanding and contracting empires, the growth of mercantilist guilds and mass industrialization, and the rise of food as an art form. Whether you are interested in the origins of lasagna, the strange genesis of the Chinese pasta bing or the mystique of the most magnificent pasta of all, the timballo, this is the book for you. So dig in!

Arvustused

Serventi and Sabban's remarkable tracing of pasta's history and development makes this a central addition to the history of food. -- Mark Knoblauch Booklist [ Pasta] is stuffed as tight as cannelloni with facts, numbers and quotes...an excellent study not only of pasta but of the way a single product can mutate and influence various economies over time...no doubt the exhaustive new authority on its subject. Publishers Weekly A feast for the mind. Guardian Offers more in the way of pasta history than most readers have even begun to imagine. Kirkus Reviews There are countless books on pasta, but none before has really explained how noodles took over the world, from the two great civilizations of China and Italy... [ Pasta] is rich with stories. -- Bee Wilson London Times You might think that a 400-plus-page book about pasta wouldn't be much of a page turner, but you'd be wrong...Serventi & Sabban have written an engrossing book. -- Dan Santow Chicago Tribune [ A]nyone who cares about pasta (which is to say, anyone who eats) will find a great deal of fascinating material to savor. This book is catnip for history buffs. -- Fred Plotkin Gastronomica Pasta shows how much is to be gained by looking at historical change through the lens provided by... food. -- Priscilla Ferguson Journal of Modern History

Muu info

Exploding the myth that Marco Polo discovered pasta in China and brought it back to Italy, this volume shows that pasta has existed in various forms throughout Middle Eastern, Asian, and even North African culinary cultures long before its appearance in the West.
Series Editor's Preface ix
Preface xi
Note Concerning a Definition of Pasta Products xvii
Acknowledgments xix
Introduction: In the Beginning Was Wheat 1(1)
The King of Cereals of the Mediterranean
1(3)
Wheat in China, A Latter-Day Use
4(5)
The Infancy of an Art
9(32)
Going Back to the Myths
10(2)
Pasta, An Unthinkable Food Source
12(2)
First Words, First Hypotheses
14(1)
The Classical Heritage
15(4)
The Sacred Space of Pasta
19(3)
The Primordial Shape
22(2)
Lasagne: The Original Dough Sheet
24(4)
The Family of Vermicelli
28(4)
Dry Pasta, Fresh Pasta
32(2)
Later Developments of Two Traditions
34(4)
Recognition of a Culinary Category
38(3)
The Time of the Pioneers
41(22)
Sicily, the Cradle of Dry Pasta
42(2)
Sardinia and Other Centers of Production
44(4)
An Article of Mass Trade
48(2)
The Market for Dry Pasta
50(3)
The Fresh Pasta Shop
53(3)
Rolling Pins, Blades, and Brakes
56(7)
From the Hand to the Extrusion Press
63(28)
The Routes of Wheat
64(6)
The Emancipation of the Pasta Makers
70(7)
The Triumph of the Brake
77(6)
The Revolution of the Extrusion Press
83(4)
Portrait of the Modern Pasta Manufacturer
87(4)
The Golden Age of the Pasta Manufactory
91(36)
The Birth of Manufacturing
93(5)
Artisanal Manufacturing
98(4)
The Hand That Makes: The Role of Women
102(6)
Natural Drying
108(7)
A Short Guide to Italian Manufacturers
115(4)
Macaroni From Naples and Fine Pasta From Genoa
119(8)
The Industrial Age
127(42)
The Momentum of Modernity
128(5)
The Mechanics of Progress
133(3)
The Bronze Man; or, the Automated Dough Kneader
136(6)
The Triumph of the Machine
142(8)
Drying Without Sunlight
150(7)
The Splendor and Misery of a World in Transformation
157(5)
From the Industrial Revolution to the Food Revolution
162(7)
Pasta Without Borders
169(28)
The New Horizons of Pasta
170(2)
From Germany to the Land of the Cossacks
172(3)
Transatlantic Migrations
175(1)
French Traditions
176(8)
Alsace and the Passion for Egg Pasta
184(4)
Pasta from the New World: The Example of the United States
188(9)
The Time of Plenty
197(30)
The World of Pasta
199(2)
The Thwarted Ambitions of French Industrialists
201(2)
The Italian Reconquest
203(5)
American Lessons
208(4)
Victories and Defeats in the Regulation of Raw Materials
212(4)
The Return to Favor of Artisans
216(6)
The Empire of Fresh Pasta
222(5)
The Taste for Pasta
227(44)
A Tradition That Comes From Faraway
230(3)
The Gastronomy of Fresh Pasta
233(5)
Stuffed Pasta: Shapes, Colors, and Flavors
238(5)
Dry Pasta as an Architecture for the Mouth
243(10)
From Pasta That Melts in Your Mouth to Pasta Al Dente
253(4)
Pasta and its Companions
257(10)
Pasta on the Menu
267(4)
China: Pasta's Other Homeland
271(74)
Of Pasta, Breads, and Flatbreads: The Bing Paradigm
276(3)
The Distinguishing Features of a Civilization
279(7)
Favorite Food of Scholarly Society
286(8)
The Worshipful Bing
294(3)
The Allure of Pasta and the Original Form
297(7)
The First Recipes
304(7)
The Popularity of Bing Throughout China
311(4)
Pasta Products of the North Spread to the South
315(10)
Exotic Flavors, Methods, and Preparations
325(8)
The End of a History, the Richness of a Heritage
333(12)
The Words of Pasta
345(16)
Pasta: The Gluttony of the Land of Cockaigne
345(1)
Pasta and Temperance
346(1)
A Whiff of Cinnamon
347(1)
In Search of Italian Pasta
348(1)
Service Italian-Style
349(1)
The Macaronic Cademy
350(1)
``Spiked'' Macaroni Casanova-Style
350(2)
Neapolitan Folklore
352(1)
Conviviality Around the Taverna
353(3)
The Dandy at the Manufactory
356(1)
Behind the Scenes in the Pasta Industry
357(1)
The Dreams of the Hand
358(3)
Notes 361(30)
Bibliography 391(22)
Index 413


Silvano Serventi is a historian of food and of French and Italian culinary practices. He is the author of many books, including The Medieval Kitchen: Recipes from France and Italy (with Odile Redon and Francoise Sabban). Francoise Sabban is a sinologist and director of studies at the Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales in Paris. Antony Shugaar is coauthor of Latitude Zero: Tales of the Equator and translator of The Judge and the Historian by Carlo Ginzburg, and Niccolo's Smile and Republicanism by Maurizio Viroli. He lives in Arlington, VA.