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Below the Waist: Pads, Hoops, Crinolines and Bustles [Pehme köide]

(Senior Lecturer, University Bournemouth)
  • Formaat: Paperback / softback, 374 pages, kõrgus x laius: 229x229 mm, 45 Tables, color; 393 Halftones, color; 393 Illustrations, color
  • Ilmumisaeg: 29-Aug-2025
  • Kirjastus: Routledge
  • ISBN-10: 0367438097
  • ISBN-13: 9780367438098
  • Formaat: Paperback / softback, 374 pages, kõrgus x laius: 229x229 mm, 45 Tables, color; 393 Halftones, color; 393 Illustrations, color
  • Ilmumisaeg: 29-Aug-2025
  • Kirjastus: Routledge
  • ISBN-10: 0367438097
  • ISBN-13: 9780367438098
"Below the Waist: Pads, Hoops, Crinolines and Bustles provides a wide range of historical patterns and instructions to construct a range of underpinnings, simple pads, a farthingale, 18th century hoops, 19th century crinolines and bustles. The silhouettethat enables us to recognize and date historical female garments owes a great deal to the underpinnings that support the costume. Historical underpinnings were constructed to hold and shape the outer garment, creating a silhouette unique to a particular period. The examination of a wide range of original garments forms the basis for each pattern in this book and includes historical information to support each pattern, providing a unique shape that gives a wider choice for the costumer to create an accurate period silhouette. Many of the garments are from unseen collections and present new patterns for the reader. Clear step-by-step instructions, with supporting diagrams, will enable the reader to produce an accurate period undergarment. Mandy Barrington's method of pattern drafting allows anyone, from students on costume construction courses to professionals working in the costuming industry, to draft and make an authentic historical underpinning"--

Below the Waist: Pads, Hoops, Crinolines and Bustles provides a wide range of historical patterns and instructions to construct a range of underpinnings, simple pads, a farthingale, 18th century hoops, 19th century crinolines and bustles.



Below the Waist: Pads, Hoops, Crinolines and Bustles provides a wide range of historical patterns and instructions to construct a range of underpinnings, simple pads, a farthingale, 18th century hoops, 19th century crinolines and bustles.

The silhouette that enables us to recognize and date historical female garments owes a great deal to the underpinnings that support the costume. Historical underpinnings were constructed to hold and shape the outer garment, creating a silhouette unique to a particular period. The examination of a wide range of original garments forms the basis for each pattern in this book and includes historical information to support each pattern, providing a unique shape that gives a wider choice for the costumer to create an accurate period silhouette. Many of the garments are from unseen collections and present new patterns for the reader. Clear step-by-step instructions, with supporting diagrams, will enable the reader to produce an accurate period undergarment.

Mandy Barrington‘s method of pattern drafting allows anyone, from students on costume construction courses to professionals working in the costuming industry, to draft and make an authentic historical underpinning.

1. How to Use This Book
2. Materials and Equipment
3. Additional Sewing Techniques
4. Measurements
5. Historical Underpinnings
6. 16th Century Farthingale
7. Bum Rolls and Pads
8. 18th Century Pair of Hoops
9. 18th Century Striped Hoops
10. 1860-70 Black and White Striped Crinoline
11. 1860-65 Red Wool Cage Crinoline
12. 1868-71 Red and Cream Wool Crinoline
13. 1870-78 Small Horsehair Bustle
14. 1874 Horsehair Bustle with Ruffles
15. 1872-74 Red and Black Bustle Petticoat
16. 1880s White Cotton Bustle
17. 1875-85 Floral Lobster Bustle

Mandy Barrington is a Senior Lecturer in Costume at the Arts University Bournemouth with a Distinction at Masters Level in Costume. Her research and study of 18th and 19th century extant underpinnings examines garment proportion in relation to the body. This has enabled Mandy to develop a highly accessible method to draft new historical patterns that directly links the original garment to the body of the intended wearer. Mandy is the author Stays and Corsets: Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body (Routledge, 2015) and the follow-up book Stays and Corsets Volume 2 (Routledge, 2019).