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Concepts of Pattern Grading: Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading 2nd Revised edition [Spiraalköide]

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  • Formaat: Spiral bound, 240 pages, kõrgus x laius: 279x216 mm, kaal: 591 g
  • Ilmumisaeg: 01-Jan-2009
  • Kirjastus: Fairchild Books
  • ISBN-10: 1563676974
  • ISBN-13: 9781563676970
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Concepts of Pattern Grading: Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading 2nd Revised editionSuurem pilt
  • Formaat: Spiral bound, 240 pages, kõrgus x laius: 279x216 mm, kaal: 591 g
  • Ilmumisaeg: 01-Jan-2009
  • Kirjastus: Fairchild Books
  • ISBN-10: 1563676974
  • ISBN-13: 9781563676970
Teised raamatud teemal:
Püsilink: https://www.kriso.ee/db/9781563676970.html
Märksõnad:
This well-illustrated, step-by-step introduction to grading combines the theory of pattern grading with its practical applications. This text presents the x, y orientation to familiarize readers with the concepts of computer grading. It takes a holistic approach, integrating anthropometry, size specifications, and grade guides into the grading process for women's garments with emphasis on maintaining fit and style sense. Concepts are also applicable to grading men's and children's patterns. The second edition has been re-organized to be more user-friendly, with completed grading charts and practice exercises spread throughout the chapters. New to this Edition: -- A How-to guide for pattern grading -- More focus placed on the grading process, rather than the end-result. -- Completed grading charts and practice exercises throughout the text. -- Expanded discussion of the process of developing a grading system. -- New coverage of grading design variations. -- Updated info on Anthropometric Surveys. -- More sizes and coverage of crossing grades for basic pattern blocks. -- CD-Rom includes blank grading charts that students can print out and save for future use or hand in as class assignments.
Contents v
List of Tables
xiii
Preface xvi
Pattern Grading Fundamentals
1(12)
Introduction
1(1)
Anthropometric Surveys
2(1)
Sizing Standards
3(2)
PS 42-70 Sizing Standard
3(1)
ASTM D 5585-95 Sizing Standard
4(1)
ASTM D 5586-01 Sizing Standard
4(1)
European Sizing Standard
5(1)
Additional Sizing Specifications
5(1)
Grading Systems
5(4)
Major Differences in Grading Systems
5(1)
Complexity of the Body
6(2)
PS 42-70 Grading System
8(1)
ASTM D 5585-95 Grading System
8(1)
Comparison of Authors' Simplified and ASTM D 5585 Grading Systems
8(1)
Summary
9(1)
Exercises
10(1)
References
11(2)
Pattern Grading Terminology
13(7)
Introduction
13(1)
Pattern Terminology
13(1)
Grading Terminology
14(4)
Grade Distribution
15(1)
Cross (Width) Grades
15(2)
Length Grades
17(1)
Grading Methods
17(1)
Summary
18(1)
Exercises
18(1)
References
19(1)
Grading on the Cartesian Graph
20(10)
Introduction
20(1)
The Cartesian Graph
20(1)
Numbering Cardinal Points
21(1)
Pattern Orientation
21(1)
Variations in Pattern Orientation
22(1)
Developing Grade Rules
23(2)
Cumulative Grades
24(1)
Pattern Block-Grade Distributions
24(1)
Grading a Size Range
24(1)
Grade Rule Table
25(3)
Computerized Grading
25(1)
Unit of Measurement
26(1)
Grading Increment Values
26(1)
Relative Grading and Incremental Grading
26(1)
Production Patterns
26(2)
Summary
28(1)
Exercises
28(2)
Manual, Machine, and Computer Grading
30(12)
Introduction
30(1)
Manual Grading
30(6)
Block Movement Method for Manual Grading
31(1)
Moving the Pattern Block
32(1)
Marking Cardinal Points
32(1)
Measurement Method for Manual Grading
32(2)
Blending in Manual Grading
34(2)
Check Corresponding Seam Lengths and Notches
36(1)
Machine Grading
36(2)
Mounting Pattern Block in Grading Machine
37(1)
Moving the Pattern Block
37(1)
Marking, Blending, and Checking Graded Size
38(1)
Computer Grading
38(2)
Pattern Preparation
38(1)
Digitizing
38(1)
Pattern Input and Pattern Information
38(2)
Entering Grade Rules Into the Computer
40(1)
Assignment of Grade Rules
40(1)
Nested Graded Pattern
40(1)
Plot Graded Patterns
40(1)
Summary
40(1)
Exercises
41(1)
Grading the Basic Pattern Blocks
42(26)
Introduction
42(1)
Grading Procedures
42(2)
Patterns Graded in This
Chapter
43(1)
Bodice Front
44(6)
Grading Size 12 Up to Size 14
46(2)
Grading Size 12 Down to Size 10
48(2)
Bodice Back with Shoulder Dart
50(2)
Grading Size 12 Up to Size 14
51(1)
Sleeve
52(4)
Grading Size 12 Up to Size 14
52(4)
Computerized Pattern Grading for Sleeves
56(1)
Skirt Front
56(3)
Grading Size 12 Up to Size 14
56(3)
Skirt Back
59(2)
Grading Size 12 Up to Size 14
59(2)
Pant Front and Back
61(4)
Grading Size 12 Up to Size 14
61(4)
Summary
65(1)
Exercises
66(2)
Sleeve/Bodice Combinations
68(10)
Introduction
68(1)
Kimono Sleeve with Overarm Seam
69(2)
Pattern Orientation and Grade Rules
70(1)
Kimono Sleeve with Underarm Gusset
71(2)
Raglan Sleeve
73(2)
Summary
75(1)
Exercises
76(2)
Design Variations
78(14)
Introduction
78(1)
Princess Bodice
78(1)
Full-Roll Collar
79(2)
Circle Skirt: Manual Grading
81(1)
Circle Skirt: Computer Grading
82(4)
Jumpsuit
86(1)
Surplice Bodice
87(1)
Effects of Grading on Garment Style and Proportion
88(2)
Summary
90(1)
Exercises
91(1)
References
91(1)
Grading Using Multiple x, y Axes
92(13)
Introduction
92(2)
Orientation of Multiple Grade Reference Axes
92(2)
Computer Applications Using Multiple x, y Axes
94(1)
Shawl Collar Bodice
94(2)
Flat Collar
96(1)
Briefs with Straight Crotch
97(1)
Flared Skirt
98(5)
Summary
103(1)
Exercises
103(1)
Reference
104(1)
Grading Stretch Garments
105(14)
Introduction
105(1)
Stretch Garment Fit
105(1)
Stretch Factor
106(1)
Evaluation of Fit
107(1)
Conversion Factor
107(1)
Fit Experimentation
108(1)
Procedure for Grading Stretch Garments
108(7)
Step 1: Mathematical Conversions
108(1)
Step 2: Grade Guide
109(1)
Step 3: Grade Rule Table
110(1)
Step 4: Grading Procedure
110(5)
Step 5: Fit and Style Sense Evaluation
115(1)
Summary
115(1)
Exercises
115(4)
Grading from Garment Specifications
119(27)
Introduction
119(2)
Development of a Grade Guide from Garment Specifications
121(14)
Specifications for Key Garment Areas
121(1)
Calculation Formula
121(1)
Step 1: Total Circumference Grade
121(4)
Step 2: Width Grade Distribution
125(2)
Step 3: Length Grade Distributions
127(4)
Step 4: Sleeve Specifications for Length and Width
131(2)
Step 5: Skirt/Pants Specifications for Width and Length Distributions
133(2)
Summary
135(1)
Exercises
135(10)
Grading from Specifications: Child's Garment
135(10)
References
145(1)
Alphanumeric Grading from Specifications
146(11)
Introduction
146(1)
Developing an Alphanumeric Grade Guide from a Numerical Grade Guide
147(3)
Step 1: Specify Sizes to Collapse Based on Specifications, Grade Guide, and Grade Distribution in Half-Pattern
147(1)
Step 2: Grade Distribution for Collapsed Sizes
147(2)
Step 3: Analysis of Collapsed Grades
149(1)
Summary
150(1)
Exercises
150(1)
Grading Men's Shirt into Alphanumeric Sizes Small, Medium, Large, and Extra Large
150(7)
Reference
156(1)
APPENDIX A Rationale for a Simplified Grading System Based on PS 42-70 Grade Guide
157(21)
Introduction
157(4)
PS 42-70 Complex Grading System
161(10)
Step 1: Grades Specified in PS 42-70 Grade Guide for Upper Body Bodice Front
162(2)
Step 2: Calculated Grades Armscye Width Grade
164(2)
Step 3: Dart Length Grade
166(1)
Step 4: Bodice Dart Suppression Grades
167(1)
Step 5: Complex Grading System for Sleeve Based on PS 42-70 Grade Guide
167(1)
Step 6: Complex Grading System for Skirt/Pant Based on PS 42-70 Grade Guide
168(3)
Simplified Grading System Based on PS 42-70 Grade Guide
171(6)
Step 1: Cross Grades for Half-Patterns
171(1)
Step 2: Modifications of a Complex Grade Guide to a Simplified Grade Guide
171(2)
Step 3: Simplified Grading System for Sleeve
173(1)
Step 4: Simplified Grading System for Skirt and Pant Grades
174(2)
Summary
176(1)
References
177(1)
APPENDIX B ASTM D 5586-01 Standard Table for Body Measurements for Women Aged 55 and Older (Misses Figure Type)
178(21)
Introduction
178(3)
Development of Systematic Sizing Standard and Incremental Grade Guide
178(2)
Step 1: Systematic Incremental Differences Between Sizes
180(1)
Step 2: Development of Complex Grade Guide and Sizing Specifications
181(1)
Complex Grading System
181(12)
Step 1: Grade Distribution in a Complex System
181(8)
Step 2: Grade Distributions for the Bodice Front and Back
189(2)
Step 3: Grade Distributions for the Sleeve
191(1)
Step 4: Grade Distributions for the Skirt and Pant
191(2)
Simplified Grade Guide
193(5)
Comparison of Complex and Simplified Grade Guides
196(2)
Summary
198(1)
References
198(1)
APPENDIX C ASTM D 5585-95 Standard Table of Body Measurements for Adult Female Misses Figure Type, Sizes 2 To 20
199(9)
Introduction
199(1)
Development of a Grade and Grading System from ASTM D 5585-95
199(8)
Step 1: Bodice Front and Back Grades From the Grade Guide
202(1)
Step 2: Sleeve Length and Width Grades From the Grade Guide
203(1)
Step 3: Skirt/Pant Length and Width Grades
203(4)
References
207(1)
APPENDIX D Pattern Grading Aids
208(4)
Glossary 212(5)
Index 217
Carolyn L. Moore is a previous instructor at Radford University. Kathy K. Mullet is an associate professor at Oregon State University. Margaret Prevatt Young is a designer at Wolff-Fording & Co.