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Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics 2nd New edition [Kõva köide]

Edited by (Department of Dermatology, University Hospital, Jena, Germany), Edited by (University of California School of Medicine, Department of Dermatology, San Francisco, USA)
  • Formaat: Hardback, 696 pages, kõrgus x laius: 229x152 mm, kaal: 1021 g, 24 Halftones, black and white; 87 Tables, black and white; 90 Illustrations, black and white
  • Ilmumisaeg: 01-Feb-2005
  • Kirjastus: CRC Press Inc
  • ISBN-10: 0824759435
  • ISBN-13: 9780824759438
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  • Formaat: Hardback, 696 pages, kõrgus x laius: 229x152 mm, kaal: 1021 g, 24 Halftones, black and white; 87 Tables, black and white; 90 Illustrations, black and white
  • Ilmumisaeg: 01-Feb-2005
  • Kirjastus: CRC Press Inc
  • ISBN-10: 0824759435
  • ISBN-13: 9780824759438
Teised raamatud teemal:
In the US, a drug is defined as a substance intended to modify the structure or function of part of the body, so a controversy has arisen about the proper distinction between drugs and cosmetics even water can profoundly change the structure and function of the skin. Europeans have no such problem, because they define cosmetics by their way of application and intention rather than effect. Researchers from companies and academies in the US, Europe, and Asia explore cosmetics that do indeed modify the skin, nails, or hair; and features that are altered by cosmetics. Among their topics are anti-oxidant defense systems in skin, cutaneous barrier repair, cosmeceuticals in photoaging, melatonin, dermatoxicology, and process engineering to utilize active ingredients. The first edition appeared in 2000. Annotation ©2005 Book News, Inc., Portland, OR (booknews.com)
About the Series iii
Preface vii
Contributors ix
Cosmeceuticals: A Broad-Spectrum Category between Cosmetics and Drugs
1(10)
Albert M. Kligman
The Origin of the Cosmeceutical Concept
3(1)
Enter Cosmeceuticals
4(2)
The International Scene
6(1)
Cosmeceuticals: A Diversity of Opinions
7(1)
References
8(3)
Definition
11(6)
Bert Jan Vermeer
References
13(4)
Classes
Amino Acids and Derivatives
17(20)
Kazutami Sakamoto
Introduction
17(1)
Amino Acids: Basic Features
18(12)
Existence and Roles of Amino Acids in the Skin
18(12)
Harmonized Integrity of Skin Function with Amino Acids
30(1)
Effective Amino Acid Delivery into Skin
30(1)
Amino Acid Derivatives for Extended Applications
31(3)
Conclusion
34(1)
References
34(3)
Antioxidant Defense Systems in Skin
37(52)
Jens J. Thiele
Frank Dreher
Introduction
38(1)
Constitutive Skin Antioxidants
39(16)
Water-Soluble Antioxidants
39(1)
Ascorbate
39(3)
Glutathione
42(2)
Urate
44(1)
Lipid-Soluble Antioxidants
44(1)
Vitamin E
44(1)
Ubiquinols/Ubiquinones (``Coenzyme Q'')
45(3)
Carotenoids and Vitamin A
48(1)
Enzymatic Antioxidant Systems
49(1)
Enzymatic GHS System
49(1)
Superoxide Dismutases
50(1)
Catalase
51(1)
Effect of Environmental Stressors on Skin Antioxidants
51(1)
Hydrophilic Skin Antioxidants
52(1)
Lipophilic Skin Antioxidants
53(1)
Enzymatic Skin Antioxidants
54(1)
Role of Antioxidants in the Photoprotection of Skin
55(19)
Topical Application of Antioxidants
55(1)
Vitamin E
55(8)
Vitamin C
63(1)
Other Antioxidants
63(7)
Antioxidant Combinations
70(3)
Topical Application of Antioxidants after UVR Exposure
73(1)
Topical Application of Substances Other than Conventional Antioxidants
74(1)
Summary and Conclusion
74(1)
Acknowledgments
75(1)
References
75(14)
Botanical Extracts
89(10)
Alain Khaiat
Origin of Botanical Extracts
90(1)
Extraction Process
90(6)
Total Extracts
91(1)
Selective Extracts
91(1)
Purification
91(1)
Biotechnology Extracts
92(1)
Usage
92(1)
Activity
92(1)
Antioxidants
92(1)
Lipids of the Epidermis and Barrier Function
93(1)
Fat Storage and Slimming
94(1)
Antiage
95(1)
Conclusion
96(1)
Acknowledgment
97(1)
References
97(2)
Cutaneous Barrier Repair
99(30)
Karl Lintner
Claire Mas-Chamberlin
Philippe Mondon
Francois Lamy
Olivier Peschard
Introduction
99(2)
Stratum Corneum, the Lipid Barrier and Its ``Repair''
101(11)
Short-Term ``Repair''
106(1)
Long-Term Study
107(1)
Visualization of Barrier Disruption and Lipid Integration (= ``Repair'')
108(2)
Barrier Repair Leads to Improved Water Retention
110(2)
Epidermis: How to Build the Stratum Corneum Barrier
112(7)
Dermis: The Final Frontier
119(5)
Conclusion
124(1)
References
125(4)
Seborrheic Dermatitis (Dandruff)
129(8)
Jan Faergemann
Etiology and Pathogenesis
130(2)
Treatment
132(1)
References
133(4)
Decorative Products
137(48)
Mitchell L. Schlossman
Introduction
140(1)
Color
141(3)
Color Additive Regulation
141(1)
Color Additives: Definitions
141(1)
United States Regulations
142(1)
21 CFR Part 73: Listing of Color Additives Exempt from Certification
142(1)
21 CFR Part 74: Listing of Color Additives Subject to Certification
142(1)
21 CFR Part 82: Listing of Certified Provisionally Listed Colors
142(1)
Proposed Permanent Listing of Color Additive Lakes (FR Vol. 61 #43), March 4, 1996
143(1)
European Community
143(1)
Annex IV: List of Coloring Agents Allowed in Cosmetic Products
143(1)
Lakes and Salts
143(1)
Purity Criteria
143(1)
Japan
144(1)
Positive List
144(1)
Inorganic/Natural Colorants
144(1)
US Colorants Not Permitted/Restricted in Japan
144(1)
Color Chemistry and Manufacture
144(1)
Organic Pigments
145(2)
Categories of Organic Colorants
146(1)
Stability of Organic Pigments
146(1)
Natural Dyes
147(1)
Inorganic Pigments
147(3)
Titanium Dioxide
148(1)
Zinc Oxide
148(1)
Iron Oxides
149(1)
Ultramarines
149(1)
Manganese Violet
149(1)
Iron Blue
149(1)
Chromium Oxide (Cr2O3)
149(1)
Chromium Hydroxide (Cr2O(OH)4)
150(1)
Hydrated Alumina
150(1)
Barium Sulfate
150(1)
Quality Control of Colorants
150(1)
Establishment of Standards
150(1)
Test Methods
150(1)
Shade Evaluation
150(1)
Heavy Metals
151(1)
Particle Size
151(1)
Bulk Density
151(1)
Pearlescent Pigments and Other Specialty Pigments
151(3)
Pearlescent Pigments
151(1)
Organic Pearls
151(1)
Inorganic Pearls
151(1)
Pigment Pearls
152(1)
Specialty Pigments
152(1)
Treated Pigments
152(2)
Microfine Pigments
154(1)
Light Diffusing Pigments
154(1)
Makeup Technology
154(1)
Powder
155(5)
Face Powders
155(1)
Talc
155(1)
Kaolin
156(1)
Calcium Carbonate
156(1)
Magnesium Carbonate
156(1)
Metallic Soap
156(1)
Starch
156(1)
Mica
156(1)
Polymers
157(1)
Colorants
157(1)
Perfumes
157(1)
Preservatives
157(1)
Loose Face Powders
157(1)
Pressed Face Powders
158(1)
Powder Blushers
158(1)
Pressed Powder Eye Shadows
159(1)
Quality Assurance on Powder Products
159(1)
Foundation
160(3)
Emulsified Foundations
160(1)
Formulation Considerations
160(1)
Makeup Manufacturing Equipment
160(1)
Manufacturing Procedure
161(1)
Anhydrous Foundations
161(1)
Ingredients
161(1)
Basic Formulation
162(1)
Manufacturing Procedure
162(1)
Eye Makeup
163(5)
Mascara
163(1)
Oil-in-Water
163(1)
Solvent-Based
164(1)
Water-in-Oil
164(1)
Anhydrous Mascara
165(1)
Mascara Componentry
165(1)
Cream Eye Shadows
166(1)
Ingredients
166(1)
Basic Formulation
166(1)
Manufacturing Procedure
167(1)
Eyeliners
167(1)
Ingredients
167(1)
Basic Formulations
167(1)
Manufacturing Procedure
167(1)
Pencils
168(1)
Raw Materials
168(1)
Product Types
168(1)
Manufacturing Procedure
168(1)
Lipsticks
168(3)
Classical Lipstick
169(1)
Ingredients
169(1)
Basic Formulation
170(1)
Manufacturing Procedure
170(1)
Volatile Lipstick
170(1)
Ingredients
170(1)
Basic Formulation
171(1)
Manufacturing Procedure
171(1)
Nail Color
171(1)
Makeup Formulary
172(10)
Face Products
172(1)
Loose Face Powder
172(1)
Pressed Powder Foundation
173(1)
Two-Way Powder Foundation (Wet and Dry)
173(1)
Pressed Face Powder
174(1)
Liquid Compact Foundation
174(1)
Blusher
175(1)
Eye Shadow
176(1)
Eye Shadow
176(1)
Solvent Mascara
177(1)
Emulsion-Resistant Mascara
177(1)
Waterproof Eyeliner
178(1)
Aqueous Eyeliner
179(1)
Makeup Pencil
179(1)
Classical Lipstick
180(1)
Solvent Lipstick
180(1)
Manicure Preparations
181(1)
Cream Nail Enamel
181(1)
Pearlescent Nail Enamel
181(1)
Acrylic Nail Hardener
182(1)
References
182(3)
Depigmentation Agents
185(22)
Hideo Nakayama
Tamotsu Ebihara
Noriko Satoh
Tsuneo Jinnai
Introduction
185(5)
Screening Tests for Depigmentation Agents
190(4)
Clinical Evaluation
194(6)
The Case of Kojic Acid
200(4)
References
204(3)
Hydroxyacids
207(12)
E. Uhoda
C. Pierard-Franchimont
L. Petit
G. E. Pierard
Introduction
207(1)
Chemical Structure and Natural Sources of AHAs
208(1)
Biological Activities of Hydroxyacids
209(1)
Effects on Corneocyte Cohesion and Stratum Corneum Functions
210(1)
Peeling and Caustic Effects
211(1)
Hypopigmenting Effect
212(1)
Acne and Pseudofolliculitis Treatment
212(1)
Boosting Physiological Aspects of Skin
213(1)
Safety
214(1)
Conclusions
214(1)
References
214(5)
Moisturizers
219(28)
Marie Loden
Introduction
219(2)
The Chemistry of ``Dry'' SC
221(3)
Water
221(1)
Humectants
222(1)
Lipids
222(2)
Chemistry and Use of Moisturizers
224(4)
Fats, Oils, and Emulsifiers
224(2)
Humectants
226(1)
Protection of Moisturizers
227(1)
Influence of Moisturizers on Skin Chemistry
227(1)
Skin Structure and Desquamation
228(4)
Influence of Moisturizers on Skin Structure and Desquamation
228(4)
The Barrier Function of SC
232(3)
Influence of Moisturizers on Skin Barrier Function
233(2)
Concluding Remarks
235(1)
References
236(11)
Alternative Drugs in Dermatology: An Overview
247(14)
Cheryl Levin
Howard I. Maibach
Tea Extracts
248(1)
Other Extracts
249(1)
Hydroxyacids
250(1)
Essential Fatty Acids
250(3)
Essential Oils
253(1)
Vitamins C and E
254(3)
Miscellaneous
257(1)
Conclusion
257(1)
References
258(3)
Cosmeceuticals in Photoaging
261(18)
William J. Cunningham
Background
262(1)
Pathogenesis
263(1)
Clinical and Histological Presentations
263(2)
Methods of Study
265(2)
Instrumentation
265(1)
Clinical Methods
266(1)
Prevention of Photoaging
267(1)
Products for Photoaging
268(6)
Prevention Products
268(2)
Treatment Products
270(1)
Moisturizers
270(1)
Retinoids
271(1)
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
272(1)
Beta Hydroxy Acids
272(1)
Vitamins
273(1)
Hormones
273(1)
Depigmenting Agents
274(1)
Miscellaneous Agents
274(1)
Future Trends
274(1)
References
275(4)
Phytosterols
279(14)
C. Bayerl
Plant Sterols
279(2)
Animal Sterols in Plants
281(1)
Sources of Phytosterols
281(1)
Phytosterols in Membranes
282(1)
Phytosterols and Cholesterol-Lowering Functional Foods
282(1)
Phytosterols and the Immune System
283(1)
Clinical Examples for the Use of Phytosterols in Medicine
284(1)
Phytosterols and Cancer
284(1)
Sterols/Phytosterols and the Skin
285(1)
Phytosterols and Eczema
286(1)
Phytosterols in Cosmeceuticals---The Future?
287(1)
Are Risks Entailed in Using Phytosterols?
288(1)
Trends---From Insect to Plant to Skin
289(1)
References
289(4)
Protective Creams
293(14)
J. W. Fluhr
J. Praessler
Peter Elsner
Introduction
293(1)
Specific Aspects of Topical Formulations
294(6)
SC and Hydration
294(2)
Role of Physiological Lipids
296(1)
Barrier Protection and Barrier Recovery
297(3)
Protective Creams with Special Ingredients
300(1)
Application
300(1)
Adverse Effects and Contraindications
301(1)
Conclusion
301(1)
References
302(5)
Sebum
307(12)
Philip W. Wertz
Bozena B. Michniak
Sebaceous Glands
307(3)
Anatomy
307(1)
Distribution
308(1)
Sebum Secretion
308(1)
Methods for Measurement
308(1)
Hormonal Control
309(1)
Variation with Age and Gender
310(1)
Sebum Composition
310(3)
Human
310(1)
Lipid Class Composition
310(1)
Fatty Chains
311(2)
Other Species
313(1)
Sebum in Health
313(1)
Sebum in Disease---Acne
314(1)
References
315(4)
Topical Retinoids
319(14)
Ai-Lean Chew
Saqib J. Bashir
Howard I. Maibach
Overview
319(3)
Historical Background
322(1)
Cosmeceuticals
322(1)
Retinol
322(1)
Penetration, Absorption, and Cutaneous Metabolism of Topical Retinoids
323(4)
Cellular Uptake of Retinol
324(1)
Cutaneous Metabolism
325(1)
Pharmacological Effects of Retinol In Vitro and In Vivo
326(1)
Tretinoin Therapy in Photoaging
327(2)
Toxicity
329(1)
The Future
330(1)
References
330(3)
UV Care
333(16)
Kumi Arakane
Introduction
333(1)
Acute UV-Induced Skin Damage
334(2)
Chronic UV-Induced Skin Damage
336(1)
Reactive Oxygen Species Generated by UV Irradiation and Skin Damage
336(5)
Superoxide Anion, Hydrogen Peroxide, and Hydroxyl Radical
337(1)
Singlet Oxygen
338(1)
Nitric Oxide
339(2)
Prevention of Skin Damage by Scavenging of Reactive Oxygen Species
341(4)
Antioxidants
341(2)
Iron Chelators
343(2)
Conclusion
345(1)
References
346(3)
Use of Growth Factors in Cosmeceuticals
349(16)
Richard E. Fitzpatrick
Introduction
349(1)
Pathology of Photoaged Skin
350(1)
Cosmetic Approaches to Photoaged Skin
350(1)
Growth Factors: What Are They?
351(1)
Growth Factors and Wound Healing
351(2)
Growth Factors in Cosmetic Applications
353(3)
Combination Approaches: Laser Plus Topical Growth Factors
356(1)
Risks Associated with Growth Factors
357(1)
Conclusions
358(1)
Acknowledgment
359(1)
References
359(6)
Substances
Dimethylaminoethanol
365(8)
Rachel Grossman
Christiane Bertin
Nathalie Issachar
Introduction
365(1)
Chemical Structure
366(1)
Biological and Pharmacological Actions
366(3)
Nicotinic Receptors
367(1)
Muscarinic Receptors
368(1)
Possible Roles of DMAE
369(1)
Anti-inflammatory
369(1)
Free-Radical Scavenger
369(1)
Skin Firmness
369(1)
Sagging
370(1)
Safety
370(1)
Conclusion
371(1)
References
371(2)
Hyaluronan: The Natural Skin Moisturizer
373(34)
Birgit A. Neudecker
Howard I. Maibach
Robert Stern
Introduction
374(1)
Historical Perspective
375(2)
The ``Ground Substance'' Era
375(1)
``Mucopolysaccharide'' Period
376(1)
Discovery of HA (Hyaluronan)
376(1)
The Modern Era
376(1)
The Postmodern Period
377(1)
Biology of Hyaluronan
377(7)
Overview
377(1)
Structure and Terminology
378(1)
Function
379(1)
General
379(1)
Embryonic Development
380(1)
Wound Healing
381(1)
Carcinogenesis
381(1)
Aging
381(1)
Hyaladherins
382(1)
Hyaluronan in the ECM
383(1)
Intracellular Hyaluronan
383(1)
Hyaluronan Receptors
384(1)
CD44
384(1)
RHAMM
385(1)
Hyaluronan in Skin
385(5)
Artifacts of Hyaluronan Histolocalization in Skin
385(1)
Epidermal Hyaluronan
386(1)
Dermal Hyaluronan
387(1)
Aging Skin
387(1)
Photoaging of Skin
388(1)
Acute and Chronic Inflammation
388(1)
Hyaluronan in Skin Substitutes
389(1)
Hyaluronan Synthases
390(1)
Hyaluronan Catabolism
390(1)
The Hyaluronidases
390(1)
Non-enzymatic Degradation
391(1)
Hyaluronidase Inhibitors
391(2)
Macromolecular Inhibitors
391(1)
Low Molecular Weight Inhibitors
392(1)
Oxidative Stress and Skin Hyaluronan
393(1)
Enhancing Skin Moisture by Modulating Hyaluronan
394(1)
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
394(1)
Retinoic Acid and Its Derivatives
394(1)
Steroids
395(1)
General Comments from Dermatology and Cosmetic Perspectives
395(1)
Future Developments
396(1)
References
396(11)
Kinetin
407(6)
Stanley B. Levy
Introduction
407(1)
Chemistry
408(1)
Biology
408(2)
Mechanism of Action
410(1)
Clinical Studies
410(1)
Conclusion
411(1)
References
411(2)
Melatonin: A Hormone, Drug, or Cosmeceutical
413(8)
Tobias W. Fischer
Peter Elsner
Introduction
413(1)
Melatonin and UV Protection
414(2)
Melatonin: A ``Hair Growth Inducer''
416(1)
Melatonin: A Natural Product in Edible Plants
416(1)
Melatonin: A Food Supplement
417(1)
Conclusion
417(1)
References
418(3)
Topical Niacinamide Provides Skin Aging Appearance Benefits while Enhancing Barrier Function
421(20)
Donald L. Bissett
John E. Oblong
Abel Saud
Cynthia A. Berge
Amy V. Trejo
Kimberly A. Biedermann
Introduction
422(1)
Materials and Methods
422(7)
Cell Culture Methods
422(1)
Collagen Synthesis Assay
423(1)
NADPH Level Assay
423(1)
Involucrin Synthesis Assay
424(1)
Filaggrin Synthesis Assay
424(1)
Keratin Synthesis Assay
424(1)
Lipogenesis in Skin Biopsy Samples
425(1)
Clinical Testing
425(1)
Facial Tolerance Testing
425(1)
Facial Benefits Study 1
426(1)
Facial Benefits Study 2
427(1)
Sebum Excretion Measurement Study
427(1)
Pore Size Measurement Study
428(1)
Skin Barrier Evaluation
428(1)
Results
429(9)
NADPH Levels
429(1)
Collagen Synthesis
430(1)
Barrier Layer Components
431(1)
Skin Barrier Function
432(2)
Facial Skin Tolerance of Niacinamide
434(1)
Facial Benefits Study 1
435(1)
Facial Benefits Study 2
435(1)
Reduction in Sebum Excretion and Pore Size
435(3)
Discussion
438(1)
Acknowledgments
439(1)
References
439(2)
Topical Retinyl Propionate Achieves Skin Benefits with Favourable Irritation Profile
441(24)
John E. Oblong
Abel Saud
Donald L. Bissett
Chu Zhu
Introduction
442(1)
Materials and Methods
443(4)
Sources of Materials
443(1)
Stability of Test Materials in Products
443(1)
Human Studies
443(1)
Back Cumulative Irritation Test
443(1)
Facial Irritation Test 1
444(1)
Facial Irritation Test 2
444(1)
Facial Benefits Study 1
445(2)
Facial Benefits Study 2
447(1)
Retinoid Photostability
447(1)
Cell Culture
447(1)
Results
447(12)
Back Cumulative Irritation Test
447(1)
Facial Irritation Test 1
448(2)
Facial Benefits Study 1
450(5)
Retinoid Photostability
455(1)
Facial Irritation Test 2
456(1)
Facial Benefits Study 2
456(2)
Inhibition of Dermal GAG Production
458(1)
Discussion
459(2)
Acknowledgments
461(1)
References
461(4)
Phyllanthus Tannins
465(24)
Ratan K. Chaudhuri
Introduction
466(1)
Hydrolyzable Tannins
466(1)
Gallotannins
467(1)
Ellagitannins
467(1)
Gallo-ellagitannins
467(1)
Condensed Tannins (Proanthocyanidins)
467(1)
Phyllanthus Tannins
467(2)
Occurrence of Tannins
469(1)
Tannins of Phyllanthus emblica
470(14)
Product Description and Standardization
470(2)
Product Stability
472(1)
Antioxidant Activity
472(1)
Hydroxy Radical Quenching
472(1)
Superoxide Anion Radical Quenching
473(1)
Singlet Oxygen Quenching
474(1)
Nitrogen Radical Quenching
474(1)
Boosting of Antioxidant Defense Enzymes
475(1)
Chelating Activity
476(1)
Chelators as Oxidation Enhancer
476(1)
Antioxidants Act as Pro-Oxidants
476(1)
Chelating Property of Emblica Antioxidant
477(1)
Matrix Metalloprotease (MMP) Enzymes
478(1)
Collagenase (MMP-1) Inhibitory Activity of Emblica Antioxidant
479(1)
Stromelysin 1 (MMP-3) Inhibitory Activity of Emblica Antioxidant
480(1)
Extracellular Matrix (ECM) Proteins
480(1)
Stimulation of Noncollagenic Protein Synthesis
481(1)
Skin Lightening/Skin Even-Toning
481(1)
Emblica Antioxidant Lightens the Normal Skin Color
482(1)
Emblica Antioxidant Reduces Freckle Spots
482(1)
Emblica Antioxidant Reduces UV-Induced Erythema
483(1)
Safety Data
483(1)
Acute Oral Toxicity Study in Rats
483(1)
Primary Eye Irritation Study in Rabbits
483(1)
Evaluation of Phototoxicity Potential by UV-A Irradiation on Human Subjects
483(1)
Repeat Insult Patch Test on Human Subjects/Skin Irritation and Skin Sensitization Evaluation
484(1)
Bacterial Mutagenicity Test
484(1)
Conclusion
484(1)
References
485(4)
Management of Unwanted Facial Hair by Topical Application of Eflornithine
489(22)
Douglas Shander
Gurpreet S. Ahluwalia
Joseph P. Morton
Management of Unwanted Facial Hair in Women
490(1)
Eflornithine, a Selective Inhibitor of ODC and Hair Growth
491(1)
Eflornithine Delivery to Anagen Hair Follicle
492(2)
Preclinical and Pharmacokinetic Studies with Eflornithine Formulations
494(2)
Percutaneous ADME Studies
494(1)
Clinical Safety of Topical Eflornithine
495(1)
Eflornithine Clinical Studies for Facial Hair Growth Reduction
496(11)
Phase I Clinical Study
496(1)
Phase II and Phase III Clinical Studies (Placebo Controlled)
497(3)
Objective Measures of Facial Hair Growth by Videoimaging in the Phase II and Phase III Studies
500(1)
Phase II Objective Hair Length Reductions
500(2)
Phase II Investigator Perceptions
502(2)
Subject Perception Evaluations
504(2)
Phase III Perception
506(1)
Conclusions
507(1)
References
508(3)
Ellagic Acid
511(12)
Koji Takada
Yoshimasa Tanaka
Introduction
511(2)
Skin-Whitening Ingredients
513(1)
General Properties of EA
514(6)
Existence
514(1)
Physicochemical Properties
514(1)
Biochemical Properties
514(1)
Skin-Whitening Activity in Humans
515(1)
Preventing Skin Pigmentation after Sunburn
515(1)
Improving Effect on Skin-Pigmentation Conditions
515(1)
Mode of EA Activity
516(1)
In Vivo Experience
516(1)
In Vitro Experience
517(3)
Summary
520(1)
References
520(3)
Heat Shock Proteins for Cosmeceuticals
523(14)
Claude Dal Farra
Eric Bauza
Nouha Domloge
Introduction
523(1)
Hsp: An Overview
524(2)
Hsp70
524(1)
Heat Shock Regulation
525(1)
Medical and Pharmaceutical Interest in Hsp
526(1)
Cosmeceutical Interest in Hsp
527(1)
Inducing Hsp70
527(1)
Supplying Hsp70
527(1)
Effects of Hsp on the Skin: In Vitro and Ex Vivo Studies
528(4)
Thermal Tolerance
528(1)
Hsp and UV Stress
528(1)
Hsp and Aging
529(2)
Hsp and Retinoids
531(1)
Looking Ahead
532(1)
References
533(4)
Evelle® Supplementation
537(8)
Dorte Segger
Frank Schonlau
Introduction
537(3)
Clinical Study with Evelle®
538(2)
Results
540(1)
Discussion
541(2)
References
543(2)
Retinaldehyde: A New Compound in Topical Retinoids
545(4)
F. Verriere
Regulatory Environment
545(1)
References
546(3)
Copper Peptide and Skin
549(18)
Mary Beth Finkey
Yohini Appa
Sulochana Bhandarkar
Introduction
550(5)
Molecular Biology
550(1)
Absorption and Transport
550(1)
Metabolism and Excretion
550(1)
Molecular Pharmacology
551(1)
Copperceuticals and Skin: The GHK--Cu Tripeptide
552(1)
GHK--Cu Analogs
552(2)
The Importance of the Copper Peptide Complex
554(1)
Skin Penetration Study of GHK--Cu
554(1)
Immunohistological Assessment
555(1)
Controlled Usage Study in Photodamaged Skin
555(4)
Methods
556(1)
Clinical Results
557(1)
Viscoelastic Properties
558(1)
Ultrasound Measurements
559(1)
Digital Images
559(1)
Safety of GHK--Cu Complex
559(2)
Conclusions
561(1)
References
561(6)
Toxicology
Dermatotoxicology Overview
567(20)
Philip G. Hewitt
Howard I. Maibach
Introduction
568(1)
Dermatopharmacokinetics: Relation to Predictive Assays
568(1)
In Vivo Percutaneous Absorption Assays
569(1)
In Vitro Percutaneous Penetration Assays
570(1)
Allergic Contact Dermatitis
570(1)
Quantitative Structure Activity Relationships
571(1)
Guinea Pig Sensitization Tests
571(1)
Draize Test
571(1)
Open Epicutaneous Test
572(1)
Buehler Test
573(1)
Freund's Complete Adjuvant Test
573(1)
Optimization Test
573(1)
Split Adjuvant Test
574(1)
Guinea Pig Maximization Test
574(1)
Human Sensitization Assays
575(1)
Repeat Insult Patch Tests
575(2)
Modified Draize Human Sensitization Test
577(1)
Irritant Dermatitis
577(1)
In Vitro Assays
577(1)
Irritation Tests in Animals
578(1)
Draize-Type Tests
578(1)
Non-Draize Animal Studies
578(1)
Human Irritation Tests
578(1)
Contact Urticaria Syndrome
579(1)
Nonimmunological Contact Urticaria
580(1)
Immunological Contact Urticaria
580(1)
Guinea Pig Ear Swelling Test
581(1)
Trimellitic Anhydride-Sensitive Mouse Assay
581(1)
Subjective Irritation and Paresthesia
581(1)
Human Assay
582(1)
References
582(5)
Contact Urticaria Syndrome and Claims Support
587(16)
Saqib J. Bashir
Howard I. Maibach
Introduction
588(1)
Symptoms and Signs
588(1)
Epidemiology
588(1)
Mechanisms of Contact Urticaria
589(2)
Nonimmunological Contact Urticaria
589(1)
Immunological Contact Urticaria
590(1)
Site Specificity of Contact Urticaria Reactions
591(1)
Human Experimental Protocols
591(3)
Subject Selection
591(1)
Site Selection
592(1)
Paired Comparison Studies
592(1)
Serial Doses
592(1)
Application Techniques
593(1)
CUS Inhibition
593(1)
Clinical Assessment and Quantitative Methods
594(2)
Visual Scoring of Contact Urticaria
594(1)
Measurement of Erythema
594(1)
Measuring Color
595(1)
Laser-Doppler Blood Flowmetry
595(1)
Measurement of Edema
596(1)
Animal Experimental Protocols
596(1)
NICU
596(1)
ICU
596(1)
Conclusion
597(1)
References
597(6)
Product Development
Process Engineering in Cosmetics to Utilize Active Ingredients
603(12)
Kazuyuki Takagi
Introduction
603(1)
Application for Decreasing the Amount of Emulsifier
604(3)
Application Correspondence in Order to Decrease Preservatives
607(1)
Application to Solubility and Dispersion
608(2)
Application for Improvement in Usability and Feeling
610(1)
Scale-up
610(1)
Conclusion
611(1)
References
612(3)
The Industry View
Cosmeceuticals or Not? The Industry View: Europe
615(10)
C. Bouillon
European Union
617(1)
USA
618(1)
Advances in the Science of Skin and Cosmetic Care
619(3)
References
622(3)
Regulatory
The Legal Distinction in USA between Cosmetic and Drug
625(18)
Peter Barton Hutt
Historical Overview
626(1)
Legislative History of the Cosmetic and Drug Provisions of the 1938 Act
627(2)
Implementation of the FD&C Act
629(10)
Initial FDA Action under the FD&C Act
630(1)
Wrinkle Remover Cases of the 1960s
631(1)
OTC Drug Review
632(1)
Warning Letters of the Late 1980s
633(2)
The Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA) Products of the 1990s
635(1)
Use of Foreign Marketing Experience
635(2)
Rationale of the Tobacco Initiative
637(1)
Labeling and Manufacturing Difficulties for Cosmetic Drugs
638(1)
Budgetary Impact on the FDA
638(1)
Potential Future Approaches
639(1)
Conclusion
640(1)
References
640(3)
Drugs versus Cosmetics: Cosmeceuticals?
643(12)
Kenkichi Oba
Mitsuteru Masuda
Regulatory Environment
643(7)
Cosmeceuticals in Japan
650(1)
Cosmeceuticals in the Future
651(1)
References
652(3)
Index 655