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Fashioning the Dandy: Style and Manners [Kõva köide]

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The book explores the dandy as a cultural type across Europe and Russia from the eighteenth century through the present day. Olga Vainshtein offers a unique view on dandyism as a cultural tradition, based not merely on fashionable attire, but also as a particular lifestyle with specific standards of behaviour, bodily practices and conceptual approaches to dress. The dandy is described as the prototypical hero of the modern cult of celebrities. From clubbing manners, the techniques of virtual aristocratism, urban flâneurs and the correct way to examine people, Vainshtein walks us through optical duels and the techniques of visual assessment at social gatherings. Readers will learn about strategies of subversive behaviour found in practical jokes, the fine art of noble scandal, dry wit, bare-faced impudence and mocking politeness. Looking at dandyism as a nineteenth-century literary movement, Vainshtein examines representation of dandies in fiction. Finally, a large section is devoted to Russian and Soviet dandyism. Vainshtein also discusses contemporary dandyism,  including  African sapeurs.

Arvustused

Fashioning the Dandy: Style and Manners is a brilliant and fascinating book by one of the worlds foremost authorities on dandyism.Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, USA.





Vainshteins brilliant and insightful book reveals the essentially performative nature of dandyism. Its all in the subtitle: style and manners. The dandys gestures, stance and movement, his fashionable inscrutability, his disdain, laconic wit and social provocation come vividly to life in this wide-ranging, erudite and compelling study. Caroline Evans, Professor emerita, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK.





Starch your tie, don a dinner jacket and settle into this wonderfully erudite tour through dandyism past and present. Vainshtein marshals exceptional insight from across nineteenth-century European thought, from London to Petersburg and all points in between, as well as a modern global sensibility to this superbly written study. Bruce Grant, Professor and Chair of Anthropology, New York University, USA.





Acknowledging and analysing the existing canon of works on dandyism, Vainshtein deftly and intriguingly builds a new discussion and approach that provides a comprehensive interpretation of historic and contemporary Dandies, exploring the dandys body, dress, toilet, manners and attitudes, critically presenting material previously not available in English. Shaun Cole, Associate Professor in Fashion, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK.

Muu info

Offers a unique view on dandyism as a cultural tradition, based not merely on fashionable attire, but also as a particular lifestyle with specific standards of behaviour, bodily practices and conceptual approaches to dress.

List of Illustrations; Acknowledgements; Introduction;
Chapter
1. Fashioning the Dandy;
Chapter
2. Literature and Legends;
Chapter
3. Charisma and Chameleonism;
Chapter
4. Manners ;
Chapter
5. The Body; Oscar Wilde;
Chapter
7. Russian Dandyism;
Chapter
8. Dandyism Revisited; Conclusion; Bibliography; Subject Index ; Name Index

Olga Vainshtein is a fashion historian. She works at the Russian State University for the Humanities in Moscow.