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First on Everest: The Life of Howard Somervell [Kõva köide]

  • Formaat: Hardback, kõrgus x laius: 234x156 mm, 8 Plates, color; 20 Illustrations, color
  • Ilmumisaeg: 14-May-2026
  • Kirjastus: The History Press Ltd
  • ISBN-10: 1803998288
  • ISBN-13: 9781803998282
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First on Everest: The Life of Howard SomervellSuurem pilt
  • Formaat: Hardback, kõrgus x laius: 234x156 mm, 8 Plates, color; 20 Illustrations, color
  • Ilmumisaeg: 14-May-2026
  • Kirjastus: The History Press Ltd
  • ISBN-10: 1803998288
  • ISBN-13: 9781803998282
Teised raamatud teemal:
Püsilink: https://www.kriso.ee/db/9781803998282.html

In 1999, my expedition found George Mallory’s body on Mount Everest. The intense public interest in his tragic fate obscured the other actors in that dramatic story.

The pioneers who attempted the first climbs in 1922 and 1924 knew nothing about the mountain other than its height. They had to learn the hard way about the lack of oxygen, the jet-stream winds, the illnesses of altitude, and the vital importance of the Sherpas. They fought cerebral oedema, frostbite, hypothermia and raging thirst in the cold, thin air. They had to find a route, avoid avalanches, and work out what to do when confronted by an insuperable rock climb at extreme altitude. Many of them died.

Howard Somervell was Mallory's closest friend on the mountain in 1922 and 1924. He was an exceptionally gifted man: he had a double first at Cambridge, he was a talented artist and an accomplished musician. He served as a surgeon at the Battle of the Somme during the First World War and was one of the foremost alpinists of the day when he was invited to join the 1922 Mount Everest expedition. After Everest he was awarded an Olympic gold medal for Alpinism in 1924. But in India he will be remembered as a surgeon who dedicated the remainder of his life to healing the sick.

Those pioneers showed the way. Somervell took part in the first attempt to climb the mountain, and his oxygen-free height record in 1924 stood for over 50 years. On his descent he sat down alone suffocating from a frost-bitten larynx. He prepared to die, but at the last moment performed a medical maneuver which cleared his airway. He survived to struggle back down.

Howard Somervell was my cousin, and I am one of the last Everesters left alive to have spoken with a climber from George Mallory’s party.



Climb Mount Everest with Howard Somervell, who was alongside George Mallory in the first attempt to summit the world's largest mountain

Arvustused

In First on Everest, Graham Hoyland restores Dr. Howard Somervell to his rightful place in the story of Himalayan explorationan unsung pioneer whose courage, compassion, and heroism shaped the foundations of high-altitude mountaineering. As Somervells cousin and a veteran Everester who has himself stood on the summit, Hoyland writes with rare authority, empathy and insight, delivering a vital and beautifully told biography long overdue. -- Sir Chris Bonington, renowned British mountaineer 'I always suspected that of all those brave twenties Everest pioneers, Howard Somervell was the one I would most like to have met. This fascinating biography just confirms that hunch. Mountaineer, artist, musician and surgeon, Howard Somervell comes across as a talented and thorouglly good man, but also a humourous man, who wore his high pinciples lightly.' -- Stephen Venables, ex-President of the Alpine Club, and first Briton to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen Mallory and Irvine might be the headline names of the early Everest expeditions, but Howard Somervell was a driving force, a man of boundless energy: expedition doctor, high-altitude pioneer, meteorologist, composer and artist. This book is an important addition to Everests history, but also an inspirational biography of a life well lived. -- Rebecca Stephens MBE, first British woman to summit Mount Everest Somervell showed me it was possible to climb Everest without oxygen. -- Reinhold Messner, first solo ascent of Mount Everest and first ascent without supplemental oxygen Hoyland eloquently charts his rise, through science, art, and religion, to become a mountaineer of the highest repute. -- Brian Hall, Boardman Tasker Prize judge and author of High Risk: Climbing to Extinction

Muu info

Climb Mount Everest with Howard Somervell, in this long-overdue biography of a pioneering mountaineer
Mountaineer and sailor GRAHAM HOYLAND was the 15th Briton to climb Mount Everest and initiated the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition, which was responsible for finding George Mallory's body. Hoyland was a BBC producer for over 30 years and worked on programmes such as Dragon's Den. The Independent named him as one of the 5 Most Inspiring Explorers.