Preface |
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xiii | |
Acknowledgments |
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xv | |
1 The Simplest Nonlinear Wave Equation |
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1 | (20) |
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1.1 The Simplest Wave Equation |
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1 | (1) |
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1.2 From Conservation Law to Wave Equation |
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2 | (11) |
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2 | (3) |
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1.2.2 From Conservation Law to Wave Equation |
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5 | (1) |
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1.2.3 Simple Model of Traffic Flow |
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5 | (8) |
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1.3 Method of Characteristics |
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1.4 Intersection of Characteristics and Occurrence of Multivaluedness |
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13 | (2) |
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15 | (5) |
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20 | (1) |
2 Burgers Equation: Effect of Diffusion |
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21 | (14) |
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21 | (2) |
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23 | (2) |
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2.3 Hopf-Cole Transformation: Close Relation to Diffusion Equation |
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25 | (1) |
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2.4 Typical Solutions of the Burgers Equation |
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26 | (8) |
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26 | (1) |
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2.4.2 Shock Wave Solution |
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27 | (3) |
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2.4.3 Coalescence of Shock Waves |
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30 | (3) |
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33 | (1) |
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34 | (1) |
3 Basics of Linear Water Waves |
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35 | (30) |
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35 | (6) |
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3.2 Linear Sinusoidal Wave Solution of Water Wave |
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41 | (12) |
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3.2.1 Basic Equations of Water Wave |
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41 | (1) |
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3.2.2 Sinusoidal Wave Solution and Linear Dispersion Relation |
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42 | (3) |
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3.2.3 Deep Water (or Short Wave) Limit |
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45 | (1) |
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3.2.4 Shallow Water (or Long Wave) Limit |
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46 | (1) |
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46 | (3) |
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3.2.6 Motion of Water Particle |
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49 | (2) |
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3.2.7 Dispersion Relation by Dimensional Analysis |
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51 | (2) |
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3.3 Wave Energy and its Propagation Velocity |
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53 | (5) |
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3.3.1 Kinetic Energy and Potential Energy |
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53 | (2) |
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3.3.2 Energetic Consideration on the Dispersivity of Water Waves |
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55 | (1) |
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3.3.3 Energy Flux and Velocity of Energy Propagation |
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56 | (2) |
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3.4 Extension of Linear Solution to Nonlinear Solution |
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58 | (5) |
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3.4.1 Criteria for Validity of Linear Approximation |
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58 | (2) |
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3.4.2 Stokes Wave: Nonlinear Steady Traveling Wavetrains |
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60 | (3) |
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63 | (2) |
4 Perturbation Method and Multiple Scale Analysis |
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65 | (14) |
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4.1 Necessity of Approximate Solution Method |
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65 | (1) |
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66 | (3) |
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4.2.1 Approximate Value of Root of Quadratic Equation |
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66 | (2) |
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4.2.2 Approximate Solution of Differential Equation |
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68 | (1) |
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4.3 Application to Nonlinear Pendulum |
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69 | (3) |
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4.3.1 Breakdown of Regular Perturbation Method |
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69 | (2) |
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4.3.2 Forced Oscillation and Resonance |
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71 | (1) |
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4.4 Multiple Scale Analysis |
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72 | (6) |
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4.4.1 Multiple Time Scale |
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72 | (1) |
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4.4.2 Application of Multiple Time Scale to Nonlinear Pendulum |
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73 | (5) |
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78 | (1) |
5 KdV Equation: Effect of Dispersion |
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79 | (26) |
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5.1 KdV Equation and its Intuitive Derivation |
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79 | (3) |
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5.2 Solitary Wave Solution: Balance Between Nonlinearity and Dispersion |
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82 | (3) |
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5.3 Soliton: Solitary Wave with Particle Nature |
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85 | (10) |
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5.3.1 Discovery of Soliton |
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85 | (2) |
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5.3.2 Inverse Scattering Method: Exact Solution of KdV Equation |
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87 | (4) |
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5.3.3 Soliton Interaction |
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91 | (2) |
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5.3.4 Application of Soliton Theory to Water Waves |
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93 | (2) |
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5.4 Relatives of KdV Equation |
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95 | (3) |
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5.5 Whitham Equation and Wave Breaking |
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98 | (3) |
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101 | (4) |
6 Modulation and Self-Interaction of a Wavetrain |
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105 | (36) |
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6.1 Modulated or Quasi-Monochromatic Wavetrain |
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105 | (1) |
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106 | (11) |
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6.2.1 Group Velocity as Propagation Velocity of Modulation |
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106 | (3) |
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6.2.2 Group Velocity as Propagation Velocity of Energy |
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109 | (3) |
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6.2.3 Evidences of Energy Propagation at Group Velocity |
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112 | (5) |
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6.3 Nonlinear Schrodinger Equation: Equation Governing Modulation |
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117 | (14) |
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6.3.1 Contribution from Dispersion: Linear Schrodinger Equation |
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118 | (3) |
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6.3.2 Contribution from Nonlinearity: Mode Generation and Resonance |
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121 | (2) |
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6.3.3 Nonlinear Schrodinger Equation |
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123 | (5) |
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6.3.4 Envelope Soliton Solution |
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128 | (3) |
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6.4 Modulational Instability |
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131 | (8) |
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6.4.1 Stokes Waves and its Stability |
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132 | (1) |
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6.4.2 Stability Analysis Based on NLS Equation |
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133 | (2) |
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6.4.3 Intuitive Understanding of Modulational Instability |
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135 | (2) |
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6.4.4 Modulational Instability and Freak Wave |
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137 | (2) |
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139 | (2) |
7 Resonant Interaction Between Waves |
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141 | (20) |
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7.1 Three-Wave Interaction |
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141 | (5) |
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7.1.1 Bound Wave Component |
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141 | (2) |
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7.1.2 Three-Wave Resonant Interaction |
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143 | (3) |
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7.2 Three-Wave Interaction Equation |
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146 | (4) |
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7.2.1 Derivation of Three-Wave Interaction Equation |
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146 | (2) |
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7.2.2 Manley-Rowe Relations |
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148 | (2) |
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7.3 Wave Generation and Excitation by Three-Wave Resonance |
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150 | (4) |
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7.3.1 Generation of the Third Wave by Two Waves |
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150 | (1) |
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7.3.2 Excitation of Two Waves by One Wave |
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151 | (3) |
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7.4 Special Types of Three-Wave Resonance |
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154 | (3) |
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7.4.1 Long-Wave Short-Wave Resonance |
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154 | (1) |
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155 | (2) |
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7.5 Four-Wave Resonant Interaction |
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157 | (2) |
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159 | (2) |
8 Wave Turbulence: Interaction of Innumerable Waves |
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161 | (20) |
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161 | (2) |
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8.2 Statistics About Wave Height |
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163 | (5) |
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8.2.1 Definition of Individual Waves and Representative Wave Height |
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163 | (2) |
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8.2.2 Probability Distribution of Wave Height |
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165 | (3) |
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8.3 Evolution Equation of Energy Spectrum |
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168 | (2) |
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8.4 Power Law Appearing in Energy Spectrum |
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170 | (8) |
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8.4.1 Kolmogorov Spectrum of Turbulence |
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170 | (4) |
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8.4.2 Power-Law Spectrum of Ocean Waves |
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174 | (4) |
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178 | (3) |
A Conservation Law in 3D |
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181 | (4) |
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181 | (1) |
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A.2 Conservation Law in Integral Form |
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182 | (1) |
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A.3 Conservation Law of Differential Form |
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182 | (3) |
B System of Simultaneous Wave Equations |
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185 | (10) |
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185 | (2) |
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B.2 Mechanism of Temporal Evolution of Hyperbolic System |
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187 | (2) |
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189 | (2) |
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191 | (2) |
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193 | (2) |
C Summary of Fourier Analysis |
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195 | (4) |
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195 | (1) |
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196 | (1) |
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C.3 Solution of the Diffusion Equation |
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197 | (2) |
D Derivation of Governing Equations for Water Waves |
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199 | (8) |
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D.1 Mass Conservation Law |
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199 | (1) |
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200 | (1) |
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D.3 Lagrangian Derivative |
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201 | (1) |
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D.4 Kelvin's Circulation Theorem |
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202 | (1) |
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D.5 Potential Flow and Bernoulli's Theorem |
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203 | (3) |
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206 | (1) |
E Summary to Dimensional Analysis |
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207 | (10) |
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E.1 Dimension and SI system |
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207 | (1) |
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E.2 Physical Quantities with Independent Dimensions |
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208 | (1) |
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E.3 Conversion of Unit System |
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209 | (1) |
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210 | (3) |
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E.5 Drag on an Object by Dimensional Analysis |
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213 | (2) |
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215 | (2) |
F Derivation of the KdV Equation for Water Waves |
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217 | (8) |
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217 | (1) |
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E2 Derivation of Long Wave Equation |
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218 | (2) |
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E3 Derivation of the KdV Equation |
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220 | (3) |
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223 | (2) |
G FPU Recurrence and the KdV Equation |
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225 | (8) |
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G.1 Normal Mode of Oscillation |
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225 | (3) |
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228 | (1) |
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G.3 Derivation of the KdV Equation for Nonlinear Lattice |
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229 | (2) |
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231 | (2) |
Author's Biography |
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233 | (2) |
Index |
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235 | |