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Rock Climbing: Essential Skills & Techniques 2nd Revised edition [Pehme köide]

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  • Formaat: Paperback / softback, 272 pages, kõrgus x laius: 230x150 mm, colour photos & diagrams
  • Ilmumisaeg: 19-Sep-2011
  • Kirjastus: UKMTB
  • ISBN-10: 095415116X
  • ISBN-13: 9780954151164
Teised raamatud teemal:
Rock Climbing: Essential Skills & Techniques 2nd Revised editionSuurem pilt
  • Formaat: Paperback / softback, 272 pages, kõrgus x laius: 230x150 mm, colour photos & diagrams
  • Ilmumisaeg: 19-Sep-2011
  • Kirjastus: UKMTB
  • ISBN-10: 095415116X
  • ISBN-13: 9780954151164
Teised raamatud teemal:
Püsilink: https://www.kriso.ee/db/9780954151164.html
This is the official handbook of 'the Mountaineering Instructor, Single Pitch, Climbing Wall and Climbing Wall Leading Award Schemes'. Written by one of the best known rock climbing instructors in the UK this is the definitive and comprehensive 'how to rock climb' textbook, now in its revised and updated second edition. It covers un-roped bouldering and movement skills as well as every aspect of single and multi-pitch rock climbing, abseiling, problem solving, the climbing environment, the history and development of the sport and much more. This book is a reference tool for every climber, from novice to expert, as well as containing specific ideas for anyone wanting to help coach and instruct others. It is the official handbook for the UK qualification system that includes 'the Mountaineering Instructor, Climbing Wall, Single Pitch and Climbing Wall Leader Awards and is endorsed by the BMC, MCofS and MI. Revised throughout there are additional chapters on Sport Climbing, Sea Level Traversing, Ropes Courses and Via Ferrata, Adaptive Techniques for Disabled Climbers, Injury Avoidance, Improving Technique, Risk Management and the Law and Working with Young People. It has a functional design with easy-reference colour-coded pages, striking illustrations that complement the text and inspiring photos that give a genuine flavour of the breadth of climbing possibilities across Britain and Ireland. It is the second of a series of manuals from Mountain Leader Training UK that includes the highly successful 'Hill Walking' and 'Winter Skills'.
Author's acknowledgements xi
Editor's note xii
Foreword xiii
Introduction xv
The essence of rock climbing
xv
About this book
xv
Notes for Instructors
xv
Looking after yourself
xvi
Looking after each other
xvi
Participation statement
xvi
Part I Environment & history 1(20)
1 The climbing environment
3(10)
1.1 Coasts
4(1)
1.2 Mountains
5(1)
1.3 Other environments
6(1)
1.4 Where can we go?
6(1)
1.5 Legislation
7(1)
1.6 Access restrictions
8(1)
1.7 Minimising impact
9(1)
1.8 New routeing and guidebooks
10(1)
1.9 Parking
11(1)
1.10 Style and structure of activity
11(1)
1.11 Sanitation
11(1)
Notes for instructors
11(1)
Putting something back
11(1)
Notes for instructors
12(1)
Group size and choice of venue
12(1)
2 A brief history of UK & Irish climbing
13(8)
2.1 In the beginning
14(1)
2.2 1900 - 1950
14(1)
2.3 1950 - 1970
15(1)
2.4 1970's
16(1)
2.5 1980's
16(2)
2.6 1990's
18(1)
2.7 2000 - 2011
19(1)
To bolt or not to bolt
19(2)
Part II Getting moving: indoors & outdoors 21(54)
3 Warming Up
23(6)
3.1 Comprehensive warm-up
24(1)
3.1.1 Five minutes of low-intensity aerobic activity
24(1)
3.1.2 Loosen up joints
24(1)
3.1.3 Stretching
24(1)
3.1.4 Easy climbing
24(1)
3.1.5 Mental preparation
24(1)
3.2 Shortened warm-up
24(1)
3.3 Injury avoidance
24(2)
3.3.1 Type of injuries
24(2)
3.3.2 Children and injuries
26(1)
3.3.3 Cooling down
27(1)
3.3.4 Treatment of injuries
27
Notes for instructors 3 Warming up with groups
26(2)
Notes for instructors 4 Injuries and groups
28(1)
The Rice Method
28(1)
4 Movement skills
29(10)
4.1 Body position
30(1)
4.2 Footwork
31(1)
4.3 Handholds
32(2)
4.4 Climbing techniques
34(4)
4.5 Static and dynamic movement
38(1)
5 Training & improving technique
39(6)
5.1 Physical skills
40(3)
5.1.1 Improving technique
40(1)
5.1.2 Strength
40(3)
Training basics
41(2)
5.1.3 Flexibility
43(1)
5.2 Practical skills
43(1)
5.3 Mental/psychological skills
43(2)
5.3.1 Anxiety
43(1)
5.3.2 Motivation
44(1)
6 The basics
45(30)
6.1 Terminology and jargon
46(2)
6.2 Climbing grades
48(1)
6.3 Understanding forces
49(3)
6.3.1 Fall factor
50(1)
6.3.2 Peak impact force
51(1)
Forces summary
51(1)
6.3.3 How does climbing equipment measure up?
51(1)
6.4 Equipment failures
52(1)
6.5 Falling softly
52(1)
6.6 Equipment
53(9)
6.6.1 Standards
53(1)
6.6.2 Rock boots
53(1)
6.6.3 Harness
54(1)
6.6.4 Helmet
54(2)
Rope types and their uses
55(1)
6.6.5 Rope
56(1)
Rope lifespan
57(1)
6.6.6 Belay devices
57(2)
Belay devices
58(1)
6.6.7 Nut key
59(1)
6.6.8 Karabiners
59(1)
Loading karabiners
60(1)
6.6.9 Quickdraws/Extenders
60(1)
6.6.10 Slings
60(1)
Dyneema® slings
61(1)
6.6.11 Knots in slings
61(1)
6.6.12 Chocks
61(1)
6.6.13 Caroming devices
62(1)
6.7 Choosing gear
62(1)
6.8 Anchor selection
62(2)
Testing a natural rock anchor
63(1)
Testing an in-situ anchor
63(1)
6.8.1 In-situ anchors
64(1)
6.9 Placing gear
64(3)
6.9.1 Chocks
64(1)
6.9.2 Spring-loaded camming devices
65(2)
Placement of camming devices
66(1)
6.10 Belay systems
67(1)
6.10.1 Direct belay
67(1)
6.10.2 Indirect belay
67(1)
6.10.3 Semi-direct belay
67(1)
6.11 Knots and hitches
68(7)
Part III Bouldering & single pitch climbing 75(74)
7 Bouldering
77(6)
7.1 Venues
78(1)
7.1.1 Indoor wails
78(1)
7.1.2 Outdoors
78(1)
7.2 Equipment
78(1)
7.3 Falling off
78(1)
7.4 Spotting
79(1)
7.5 Highball problems
80(1)
7.6 Grades
80(1)
7.7 Environmental considerations
81(1)
7.8 Soloing
81(1)
7.9 Deep water soloing
81(1)
Notes for instructors 4 Bouldering with Groups
81(2)
8 Single pitch climbing
83(28)
8.1 Single pitch venues
84(1)
8.1.1 Overview of single pitch crags
84(1)
Mountain Leader Training's Single Pitch Award
84(1)
8.1.2 Hazards
84(1)
8.2 Top-roping
85(5)
8.2.1 Setting up a top-rope
85(1)
Notes for instructors 5 Personal safety
86(1)
8.2.2 Attaching to anchors
86(2)
3 anchor essentials
87(1)
Attaching to anchors
87(1)
8.2.3 Equalising anchors with slings
88(2)
Equalising anchors
89(1)
8.2.4 Rope versus slings
90(1)
8.2.5 Position of belayer
90(1)
Notes for instructors 6 Belaying
90(1)
8.3 Belaying
90(5)
8.3.1 Holding falls and lowering
91(1)
Taking in
92(1)
8.3.2 Other systems
92(2)
Operating an Italian hitch
94(1)
8.3.3 Italian hitch
94(1)
8.3.4 Operating an Italian hitch
95(1)
8.4 Bottom-roping
95(5)
8.4.1 Anchor selection
95(1)
8.4.2 Rigging a bottom-rope
95(1)
8.4.3 Belaying from below
96(4)
Notes for instructors 7 Belaying for novices
97(1)
Notes for instructors 8 Solving the problem of a stuck climber
98(2)
Clipping or tying onto rope
100(1)
8.4.4 Lowering back down
100(1)
8.4.5 Avoiding and solving problems
100(1)
8.5 Abseiling in a single pitch environment
100(7)
8.5.1 Equipment for abseiling
102(1)
Abseil checklist
103(1)
8.5.2 Rigging an abseil
103(1)
8.5.3 Arranging a retrievable abseil
103(2)
8.5.4 Throwing the rope
105(1)
8.5.5 Attaching to the rope
105(1)
8.5.6 Safety back-up
106(1)
Notes for instructors 9 Safety rope and releasable abseil
107(2)
Notes for instructors 10 Organising group abseils at single pitch venues
109(2)
9 Indoor climbing walls
111(8)
9.1 Using walls
113(2)
9.1.1 Safety
113(1)
9.1.2 Techniques
113(2)
9.1.3 Climbing wall grades
115(1)
9.2 Transferring from indoors to outdoors
115(1)
Notes for instructors 11 Groups at walls
116(3)
10 Adaptive climbing techniques
119(8)
The five steps to inclusive climbing
120(1)
10.1 Aims and objectives
121(1)
10.2 Consider individual level of function
121(1)
10.3 Equipment
122(1)
10.3.1 Harnesses
122(1)
10.3.2 Helmets and neck support
122(1)
10.4 Climbing and abseiling activities
122(3)
Climbing walls
122(1)
10.4.1 Roped climbing
122(2)
10.4.2 Free-hanging abseils
124(1)
10.4.3 Wheelchair abseiling
125(1)
10.5 Padding and adapting equipment
125(2)
11 Leading climbs
127(10)
Basic lead rack
128(1)
11.1 Leading climbs
128
11.1.1 Lead rack
128(1)
11.1.2 Organising the gear
128
11.2 Belaying
120(11)
11.2.1 Anchor for the belayer
129(1)
11.2.2 Technique for belaying a leader
129(1)
11.2.3 Holding a fall
129(1)
11.2.4 Runner placements and spacing
130(1)
Notes for instructors 12 Safety rope and releasable abseil
131(3)
11.2.5 Traverses
131(2)
11.2.6 Falling off
133(1)
11.2.7 Backing off
133(1)
11.2.8 At the top
133(1)
11.3 Communication
134(3)
Climbing calls
135(2)
12 Sport climbing
137(6)
Equipment
138(1)
12.1 Types of bolt
139(1)
12.2 Reaching the first bolt
139(1)
12.3 Clipping bolts
140(2)
12.3.1 At the lower-off
140(1)
12.3.2 Threading the lower-off
140(1)
12.3.3 Stripping routes
141(1)
12.4 Red-pointing
142(1)
12.4.1 Ethics and tactics
142(1)
Notes for instructors 13 Coaching technique and managing falls
142(1)
13 Problem avoidance & solving
143(6)
13.1 Prusiking
144(1)
13.2 Accompanied abseil
145(6)
13.2.1 Tying off a belay device
145(1)
13.2.2 Escaping from the system
146(12)
Personal safety
146(1)
Escaping from the system
147(2)
Part IV Multi-pitch climbing 149(40)
14 Rope work
151(16)
14.1 Route finding
152(1)
14.2 Double-rope technique
152(3)
Additional gear for multi-pitch routes
153(2)
14.3 Belaying and stance organisation
155(1)
14.4 Runners
156(1)
14.5 Introducing novices to multi-pitch routes
157(1)
14.6 Climbing as a three
158 (3)
14.6.1 Protecting two seconds
158(1)
14.6.2 Stance organisation with two seconds
159(1)
14.6.3 Belaying two seconds
160 (1)
Notes for instructors 14 Teaching climbing
161(6)
15 Descending from multi-pitch crags
167(6)
Nylon against nylon
168(1)
15.1 Multiple abseils
168(1)
15.2 Rigging the abseil
169(1)
15.3 Backing up abseils
169(1)
15.4 Sequence
169(1)
15.5 Jammed ropes
170 (1)
Notes for instructors 15 Abseiling with novices and clients
170(3)
16 Multi-pitch problem solving
173(16)
16.1 Pulling on gear ("Frigging")
174(1)
16.2 Priorities
174(1)
16.3 A few basic rules
175(1)
16.4 Escaping down
176(4)
16.4.1 Lowering
176(2)
16.4.2 Accompanied abseil
178(1)
16.4.3 Counterbalance abseil
178(2)
16.5 Hoisting systems
180(8)
16.5.1 Assisted hoist
181(1)
16.5.2 Unassisted hoist (in the system)
182(1)
16.5.3 Unassisted hoist (out of the system)
183(1)
16.5.4 Hip hoist
184(1)
16.5.5 Traverses
185(3)
16.6 Leader falls
188(1)
16.7 Conclusion
188(1)
Part V Scrambling & other activities 189(34)
17 Scrambling
191(18)
Equipment
192(1)
17.1 Guidebooks, route selection and route finding
192 (1)
Confidence roping, short roping and moving together
193(1)
17.2 Protecting scrambles
193(3)
17.2.1 Short roping
195(1)
17.2.2 Short pitches
195(1)
17.3 Belaying
196 (3)
17.3.1 Direct belay around rock
196(2)
17.3.2 Direct belay (Italian hitch)
198(1)
17.3.3 Indirect belay
198(1)
17.4 Moving together
199(2)
Waist belay technique
200(1)
17.5 Descent
201(2)
Notes for instructors 16 Moving together with a novice
203 (1)
17.6 Mountaineering routes and approaches to climbs
204(1)
Notes for instructors 17 Scrambling with two novices
204(5)
18 Sea-level traversing & gorge scrambling
209(8)
18.1 Sea-level traversing
210 (2)
18.1.1 History and background
210(1)
18.1.2 Hazards
210(1)
Equipment
210(1)
18.1.3 Unroped traverses
211 (1)
Notes for instructors 18 Protecting a group - fixed rope
212(2)
18.1.4 Roped traverses
213(1)
Notes for instructors 19 Protecting a group - Tyrolean
214(1)
18.1.5 Safety
215(1)
18.2 Gorge scrambling
215(2)
18.2.1 Background and environmental considerations
215(1)
18.2.2 Hazards
216(1)
18.2.3 Techniques and equipment
216(1)
19 Via Ferrate & high ropes courses
217(6)
Equipment
218(1)
19.1 Via Ferrata
218(1)
19.1.1 Overview
218(1)
19.1.2 Using a rope
218(1)
19.1.3 Hazards
219(1)
19.1.4 Problem avoidance
219(1)
19.1.5 Problem solving
219(1)
19.2 High ropes courses
219(3)
19.2.1 Overview
219(1)
19.2.2 Belay systems
220(1)
19.2.3 Levels of supervision
220(1)
19.2.4 Techniques
221(1)
19.2.5 Hazards
222(4)
Equipment
222(1)
Notes for instructors 20 Good practice
222(1)
Part VI Incidents & the law 223(12)
20 Incidents
225(4)
International distress signal
226(1)
20.1 Incidents and mountain rescue
226 (2)
20.1.1 Organisation of mountain rescue
226(1)
20.1.2 Nature of incidents
226(1)
20.1.3 Getting help
226 (1)
20.1.4 Crag incidents
227 (1)
20.1.5 Waiting for help to arrive
227(1)
20.1.6 First aid training
227(1)
20.2 Procedure in the event of an accident
228(1)
20.2.1 Making a 999 (or 112) call from a mobile phone
228(1)
21 The law & risk management
229(6)
21.1 Climbers and the law
230(1)
21.1.1 Climbing with young people
230(1)
21.2 The management of risk
231(4)
21.2.1 Hazards
231(1)
21.2.2 Risk
231(1)
21.2.3 Judgment
231(1)
21.2.4 Risk management
231(1)
21.2.5 Risk assessment
232(3)
Appendices 235(13)
A.1 Glossary
236(2)
A.2 Access legislation
238(2)
A.3 Mountain Leader Training Awards
240(2)
A.4 Useful contacts
242(4)
A.5 Bibliography and references
246(2)
Index 248
Libby Peter is a well known contributor to climbing magazines and is an International Mountain Guide and Mountaineering Instructor. She has visited many of the major climbing areas across the world, sampling all aspects of climbing from bouldering to high altitude mountaineering and everything in between. She currently combines climbing with freelance guiding and instructing from her base in North Wales, is also the Secretary of the British Mountain Guides Association and the co-author with Neil Gresham of 'Get out on Rock' an instructional DVD to rock climbing.