"Tailoring Identities stands out significantly in its field. Unlike most books on African dress, it delves into how local tailors navigate the bureaucratic networks of state institutions and how these interactions influence urban development and shape the social lives of ordinary citizens. This book fills that critical gap, illustrating how tailors and fashion enthusiasts have continually adapted their craft to the everchanging political, economic, and social landscapes of the nineteenth, twentieth, and twenty-first centuries. By exploring the complex history of cloth-making, it offers fresh insights into the origins of production methods, work patterns, and occupational identities, as well as the enduring popularity of certain styles in Benin. . . . I don't know of any other book that does that."Okechukwu Nwafor, author of Aso Ebi: Dress, Fashion, Visual Culture, and Urban Cosmopolitanism in West Africa
"This is a major contribution to the literature of fashion in West Africa and to the history of Dahomey and Benin specifically. It is, as far as I am aware, one of the few surveys of an area in West Africa that successfully covers hundreds of years of sartorial history. Fretwell's arguments are significant both to understanding the history of this specific area but also as a model for studies in other areas."Elisabeth L. Cameron, author of Art of the Lega
