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Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen [Kõva köide]

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  • Formaat: Hardback, 432 pages, kõrgus x laius: 260x212 mm, 500 color + b-w illus.
  • Ilmumisaeg: 22-Nov-2022
  • Kirjastus: Yale University Press
  • ISBN-10: 030026349X
  • ISBN-13: 9780300263497
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  • Formaat: Hardback, 432 pages, kõrgus x laius: 260x212 mm, 500 color + b-w illus.
  • Ilmumisaeg: 22-Nov-2022
  • Kirjastus: Yale University Press
  • ISBN-10: 030026349X
  • ISBN-13: 9780300263497
A New York Times best art book of 2022

Traces the history of lace in fashion from its sixteenth-century origins to the present   Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen offers a look at one of the worlds finest collections of historical lace. It traces the development of European lace from its emergence in the sixteenth century to the present, elucidating its important role in fashion. The book explores the longstanding connections between lace and status, addressing styles in lace worn at royal courts, including Habsburg Spain and Bourbon France, as well as lace worn by the elite ruling classes and Indigenous peoples in the Spanish Americas.   Featuring new research, the publication covers a range of topics related to lace production, lace in fashion and portraiture, lace revivals, the mechanization of the lace industries in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, and contemporary innovations in lace. With a focus on lace techniques, women lace makers, and lace as a signifier of wealth and power, this richly illustrated book includes wide-ranging contributions by curators and experts from major museums and academic institutions.   Distributed for Bard Graduate Center   Exhibition Schedule:   Bard Graduate Center, New York (September 16, 2022January 1, 2023)
Director's Foreword ix
Susan Weber
Editors' Note xiii
Introduction: Threads of Power 1(24)
Emma Cormack
Michele Majer
THE EMERGENCE OF LACE IN EARLY MODERN EUROPE
1 Lace and Status: Luxury, Power, and Control in Early Modernity
25(24)
Barbara Karl
2 Putting a Name to a Lace: Fashion, Fame, and the Production of Printed Textile Pattern Books
49(20)
Femke Speelberg
3 "Monstrous Ruffs" and Elegant Trimmings: Lace and Lacemaking in Early Modern Italy
69(20)
Paula Hohti
4 Antwerp, a Center of Lacemaking and Lace Dealing, 1550-1750
89(26)
Frieda Sorber
FASHION AND LACE IN SPAIN AND THE AMERICAS, 1500-1800
5 The Triumph of Lace: Spanish Portraiture in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries
115(20)
Amalia Descalzo Lorenzo
6 "A Desire of Being Distinguished by an Elegant Dress Is Universal": Clothing, Status, and Convenience in Eighteenth-Century Spanish America
135(20)
Mariselle Melendez
7 "A Prodigious Excess": Lace in New Spain and Peru, ca. 1600-1800
155(22)
James Middleton
8 "Covered in Much Fine Lace": Dress in the Viceroyalty of New Granada
177(16)
Laura Beltran-Rubio
THE DOMINANCE OF FRANCE, 1660-1790
9 Lace, an Economic Factor in France during the Reign of Louis XIV
193(16)
Denis Bruna
10 Lace a la Mode in France, ca. 1690-1790
209(28)
Lesley Ellis Miller
MECHANIZATION AND REVIVALISM IN THE LACE INDUSTRIES, 1800-1925
11 Fashion and the Lace Industries in France, Belgium, and England, 1800-1900
237(30)
Emma Cormack
Michele Majer
12 Ahead of the Curve: A. Blackborne & Co. and the Late Nineteenth-Century British Lace Industry
267(24)
Annabel Bonnin Talbot
13 Italy to New York: Making Historic Textiles Modern at the Scuola d'Industrie Italiane
291(20)
Emily Zilber
14 A Source of Inspiration: The Leopold Ikle Collection in St. Gallen
311(20)
Anne Wanner-Jean Richard
Nona Kos
INNOVATIONS IN LACE, 1900 TO TODAY
15 Fashion and Lace since 1900
331(24)
Catherine Ormen
16 Lace in St. Gallen Today: Tradition and Innovation at Forster Rohner and Jakob Schlaepfer
355(15)
Annina Dosch
Tobias Forster
Martin Leuthold
Hans Schreiber
Illustrated Checklist of the Exhibition 370(25)
Selected Bibliography 395(10)
Glossary 405(7)
Kenna Libes
Contributors 412(2)
Index 414(4)
Photographic Credits 418
Emma Cormack is associate curator, and Michele Majer is assistant professor, both at the Bard Graduate Center, New York.