Preface |
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xv | |
Acknowledgments |
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xvii | |
Symbols |
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xix | |
Abbreviations and Acronyms |
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xxiii | |
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Chapter 1 Wave Mechanics: Basic Concepts |
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1 | (24) |
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1.1 The System of Equations |
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1 | (2) |
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1.2 Introduction to Wave Mechanics |
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3 | (2) |
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1.3 Stokes' Theory to the First Order |
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5 | (2) |
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1.4 Stokes' Theory to the Second Order |
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7 | (3) |
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1.5 Wave---Current Interaction |
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10 | (2) |
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1.6 Preliminary Remarks on Three-Dimensional Waves |
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12 | (1) |
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13 | (4) |
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1.7.1 General Solution for η and Φ |
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13 | (1) |
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1.7.2 The Orthogonal Attack |
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14 | (2) |
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1.7.3 The Pressure Distribution on the Breakwater |
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16 | (1) |
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17 | (4) |
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1.8.1 Interaction with a Semi-infinite Breakwater |
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17 | (2) |
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1.8.2 The Diffraction Coefficient |
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19 | (2) |
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1.9 Energy Flux and Wave Energy |
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21 | (1) |
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22 | (1) |
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23 | (2) |
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23 | (2) |
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Chapter 2 Wave Transformation near Coasts |
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25 | (18) |
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2.1 Refraction with Straight Contour Lines |
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25 | (2) |
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2.2 Refraction with Arbitrary Contour Lines |
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27 | (4) |
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27 | (2) |
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2.2.2 Effects on the Wave Height |
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29 | (2) |
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2.3 Wave---Current Interaction in Some Straits |
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31 | (4) |
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31 | (1) |
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2.3.2 Current + Waves: The Wavelength |
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32 | (1) |
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2.3.3 Current + Waves: The Wave Height |
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33 | (2) |
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35 | (6) |
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41 | (2) |
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41 | (2) |
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Chapter 3 Random Wind-Generated Waves: Basic Concepts |
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43 | (20) |
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3.1 Sea State, Significant Wave Height, Spectrum, Autocovariance |
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43 | (3) |
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3.1.1 The Concept of "Sea State" |
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43 | (1) |
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3.1.2 The Significant Wave Height |
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44 | (1) |
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3.1.3 Definition of the Frequency Spectrum |
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44 | (1) |
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3.1.4 Relationship between Autocovariance and Spectrum |
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45 | (1) |
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3.1.5 Alternative Ways to Express the Variance of the Surface Elevation |
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46 | (1) |
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3.2 The Concept of "Very Narrow Spectrum" |
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46 | (2) |
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3.3 Bandwidth and Narrow-Bandedness Parameters |
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48 | (2) |
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3.4 Characteristic Spectra of Wind Seas |
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50 | (4) |
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3.4.1 The JONS WAP Spectrum |
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50 | (1) |
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3.4.2 The Autocovariance Relevant to the JONSWAP Spectrum |
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51 | (1) |
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3.4.3 The Relationship Tp(Hs) Based on the JONSWAP Spectrum |
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52 | (1) |
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53 | (1) |
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3.5 How to Obtain the Frequency Spectrum |
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54 | (3) |
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54 | (1) |
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3.5.2 Effects of the Duration of the Wave Record |
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55 | (2) |
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57 | (1) |
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3.7 Small-Scale Field Experiments |
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58 | (2) |
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60 | (3) |
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61 | (2) |
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Chapter 4 Wave Statistics in Sea States |
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63 | (26) |
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4.1 Surface Elevation as a Stationary Gaussian Process |
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64 | (2) |
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4.1.1 The Probability of the Surface Elevation |
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64 | (1) |
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4.1.2 Proof Relevant to Any Given Realization |
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64 | (1) |
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4.1.3 Proof Relevant to the Ensemble at a Fixed Time Instant |
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65 | (1) |
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4.2 Joint Probability of Surface Elevation |
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66 | (1) |
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4.3 Rice's Problem (1958) |
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67 | (2) |
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4.4 Corollaries of Rice's Problem |
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69 | (2) |
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4.4.1 Probability of Crest Height and Wave Height |
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69 | (1) |
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4.4.2 The Mean Wave Period |
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70 | (1) |
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4.5 Consequences of the QD Theory onto Wave Statistics |
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71 | (4) |
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4.5.1 Period Th, of a Very Large Wave |
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71 | (1) |
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4.5.2 The Wave Height Probability under General Bandwidth Assumptions |
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71 | (4) |
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75 | (2) |
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4.6.1 An Experiment on Wave Periods |
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75 | (1) |
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4.6.2 The Random Variable β |
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75 | (2) |
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4.7 Maximum Expected Wave Height and Crest Height in a Sea State of Given Characteristics |
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77 | (1) |
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4.7.1 The Maximum Expected Wave Height |
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77 | (1) |
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4.7.2 Maximum Expected Crest Height |
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78 | (1) |
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4.8 FORTRAN Programs for the Maximum Expected Wave in a Sea State of Given Characteristics |
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78 | (8) |
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4.8.1 A Program for the Basic Parameters on Deep Water |
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79 | (4) |
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4.8.2 A Program for the Basic Parameters on a Finite Water Depth, Using the Shape of the TMA Spectrum |
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83 | (1) |
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4.8.3 A Program for the Maximum Expected Wave Height |
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84 | (1) |
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85 | (1) |
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86 | (3) |
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87 | (2) |
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89 | (26) |
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5.1 Distribution of Hs for a Given Geographic Location |
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90 | (1) |
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5.1.1 Definition and Characteristic Form of the Distribution |
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90 | (1) |
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5.2 The "Equivalent Triangular Storm" |
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91 | (4) |
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5.2.1 Maximum Expected Wave Height in a Given Storm |
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91 | (1) |
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5.2.2 Definition and Property of Equivalent Triangular Storm |
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92 | (1) |
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5.2.3 Regression Base Height of the ETS |
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93 | (2) |
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5.3 Return Period and Average Persistence |
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95 | (4) |
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5.3.1 Formal Solution for the Return Period R(HS < h) |
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95 | (3) |
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5.3.2 Corollary: The Equation of the Average Persistence |
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98 | (1) |
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5.4 The Encounter Probability of a Sea Storm with Some Given Characteristics |
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99 | (1) |
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5.4.1 The Poisson Process |
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99 | (1) |
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5.4.2 A General Inequality for the Encounter Probability |
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100 | (1) |
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5.5 The Design Sea State for Given Lifetime and Encounter Probability |
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100 | (2) |
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102 | (1) |
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5.6 Estimate of the Largest Wave Height in the Lifetime |
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102 | (9) |
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5.6.1 The Design Sea State Pattern |
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102 | (1) |
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5.6.2 An Advanced Approach |
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103 | (6) |
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109 | (2) |
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5.6.4 Comment on the Advanced Approach and the DSSP |
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111 | (1) |
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111 | (4) |
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112 | (3) |
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Chapter 6 Space---Time Theory of Sea States |
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115 | (30) |
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6.1 Wave Field in the Open Sea |
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115 | (2) |
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6.1.1 Concept of Homogeneous Wave Field |
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115 | (1) |
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6.1.2 Random Surface Elevation and Velocity Potential |
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116 | (1) |
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6.2 Maximum Expected Wave Height at a Given Array of Points in the Design Sea State |
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117 | (2) |
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6.3 Directional Spectrum: Definition and Characteristic Shape |
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119 | (1) |
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6.4 Classic Approach: Obtaining the Directional Distribution |
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120 | (3) |
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6.5 New Approach: Obtaining Individual Angles θi |
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123 | (3) |
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123 | (3) |
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6.5.2 The Base of the New Approach |
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126 | (1) |
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6.6 Subroutines for Calculation of the Directional Spectrum with the New Method |
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126 | (11) |
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126 | (2) |
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128 | (1) |
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129 | (2) |
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131 | (6) |
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137 | (1) |
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6.7 Worked Example of Obtaining a Directional Spectrum |
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137 | (4) |
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141 | (4) |
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142 | (3) |
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Chapter 7 Complements of Space---Time Theory of Sea States |
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145 | (12) |
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7.1 Cross-covariances: Homogeneous Random Wave Field |
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145 | (1) |
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7.2 Sea States Nonhomogeneous in Space |
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146 | (5) |
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7.2.1 Sea States Near Breakwaters |
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146 | (2) |
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7.2.2 Diffraction Coefficients before a Long Upright Breakwater |
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148 | (1) |
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7.2.3 Diffraction Coefficients in the Lee of an Upright Breakwater |
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149 | (2) |
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7.3 Cross-covariances: Nonhomogeneous Random Wave Fields |
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151 | (3) |
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7.3.1 Before a Long Upright Breakwater |
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151 | (1) |
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7.3.2 In the Lee of an Upright Breakwater |
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152 | (1) |
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7.3.3 Cross-correlation of the Surface Elevation |
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153 | (1) |
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7.4 Maximum Expected Wave Height in a Nonhomogeneous Sea State |
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154 | (1) |
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154 | (3) |
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155 | (2) |
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Chapter 8 The Theory of Quasi-Determinism |
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157 | (16) |
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8.1 The Necessary and Sufficient Condition for the Occurrence of a Wave Crest of Given Very Large Height |
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157 | (2) |
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8.2 A Sufficient Condition for the Occurrence of a Wave of Given Very Large Height |
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159 | (4) |
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8.3 A Necessary Condition for the Occurrence of a Wave of Given Very Large Height |
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163 | (3) |
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8.3.1 General Necessary Condition |
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163 | (1) |
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8.3.2 The Probability P(H,T,ξ) |
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164 | (1) |
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8.3.3 Analysis of the Function f(T,ξ) |
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165 | (1) |
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8.3.4 Condition (8.18) is Necessary |
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165 | (1) |
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8.4 The First Deterministic Wave Function in Space and Time |
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166 | (2) |
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8.5 The Velocity Potential Associated with the First Deterministic Wave Function in Space and Time |
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168 | (1) |
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8.6 The Second Deterministic Wave Function in Space and Time |
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169 | (1) |
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8.7 Comment: A Deterministic Mechanics is Born by the Theory of Probability |
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170 | (1) |
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170 | (3) |
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172 | (1) |
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Chapter 9 Quasi-Determinism Theory: Mechanics of Wave Groups |
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173 | (22) |
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9.1 What Does the Deterministic Wave Function Represent? |
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173 | (4) |
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9.1.1 A Three-Dimensional Wave Group |
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173 | (3) |
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9.1.2 The Core of the Quasi-Determinism Theory |
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176 | (1) |
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9.2 Particle Velocity and Acceleration in Wave Groups |
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177 | (5) |
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182 | (4) |
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9.4 Experimental Verification of the Quasi-Determinism Theory: Basic Concepts |
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186 | (2) |
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9.4.1 Obtaining the Deterministic Wave Function from Time Series Data |
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186 | (1) |
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9.4.2 Resorting to Time Series Data of Pressure Head Waves |
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187 | (1) |
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9.4.3 A Typical Experiment Aimed to Verify the Theory |
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188 | (1) |
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9.5 Results of Small-Scale Field Experiments |
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188 | (4) |
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192 | (3) |
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192 | (3) |
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Chapter 10 QD Theory: Mechanics of Wave Forces on Large Isolated Bodies |
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195 | (14) |
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10.1 Further Proof that the QD Theory Holds for Arbitrary Configurations of the Solid Boundary |
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195 | (1) |
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10.2 Deterministic Pressure Fluctuations on Solid Body |
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196 | (2) |
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10.3 Comparing Wave Pressures on an Isolated Solid Body to the Wave Pressures on an Equivalent Water Body |
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198 | (2) |
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10.4 The Reason the Wave Force on the Solid Body is Greater than the Froude--Krylov Force |
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200 | (3) |
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10.5 Comparing Wave Force on an Isolated Solid Body to the Froude--Krylov Force |
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203 | (2) |
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10.6 A General Model for Calculating the Diffraction Coefficient of Wave Forces |
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205 | (2) |
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207 | (1) |
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208 | (1) |
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208 | (1) |
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Chapter 11 QD Theory: Mechanics of Reflected and Diffracted Wave Groups |
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209 | (18) |
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209 | (10) |
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11.1.1 Equations of Deterministic Waves before an Upright Breakwater |
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209 | (3) |
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11.1.2 Occurrence of Exceptionally Large Waves before an Upright Breakwater |
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212 | (2) |
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11.1.3 Wave Loads on Structures |
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214 | (5) |
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11.2 In the Lee of a Breakwater |
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219 | (1) |
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11.2.1 Equations of Deterministic Waves in the Lee of a Breakwater |
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219 | (1) |
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11.2.2 Occurrence of Exceptionally Large Waves in the Lee of a Breakwater |
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220 | (1) |
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11.3 Experimental Verification |
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220 | (4) |
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224 | (3) |
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226 | (1) |
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Chapter 12 Calculation of Wave Forces on Three-Dimensional Space Frames |
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227 | (18) |
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12.1 Morison Equation and Drag and Inertia Coefficients |
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227 | (2) |
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12.2 Field Tests of Morison Equation |
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229 | (6) |
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12.2.1 A Recent Method for Obtaining Cin and Cdg |
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229 | (2) |
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12.2.2 Distribution of the Peaks of the Measured Wave Force and of the Force Calculated with the Morison Equation |
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231 | (3) |
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12.2.3 The KE of a Sea State as a Whole |
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234 | (1) |
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235 | (6) |
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12.3.1 Object and Input Data |
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235 | (1) |
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12.3.2 Zero Up-Crossing or Zero Down-Crossing Wave? |
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236 | (1) |
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12.3.3 Calculation of Wave Force |
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237 | (4) |
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241 | (4) |
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242 | (3) |
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Chapter 13 Calculation of Wave Forces on Gravity Platforms and Submerged Tunnels |
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245 | (14) |
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13.1 Wave Forces on a Gravity Offshore Platform |
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245 | (5) |
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13.1.1 Calculation of the Diffraction Coefficient |
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245 | (1) |
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13.1.2 Calculation of the Wave Force |
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246 | (4) |
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13.2 Wave Forces on a Submerged Tunnel |
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250 | (7) |
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13.2.1 Wave Height and Diffraction Coefficients |
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250 | (2) |
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13.2.2 Calculation of Wave Force |
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252 | (5) |
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257 | (2) |
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257 | (2) |
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Chapter 14 Loads of Sea Storms on Vertical Breakwaters |
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259 | (10) |
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14.1 Overall Stability of an Upright Section |
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259 | (2) |
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14.1.1 The Equilibrium Problem |
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259 | (2) |
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261 | (3) |
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261 | (2) |
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14.2.2 The Virtual-Height Model |
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263 | (1) |
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14.3 Evidences from SSFEs |
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264 | (1) |
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14.4 The Risk of Impulsive Breaking Wave Pressures |
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265 | (1) |
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266 | (1) |
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14.5.1 First Worked Example |
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266 | (1) |
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14.5.2 Second Worked Example |
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266 | (1) |
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267 | (2) |
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267 | (2) |
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Chapter 15 Conversion of Wave Energy |
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269 | (16) |
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15.1 An Overview of Work Done to Exploit Wave Energy Source |
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269 | (3) |
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15.2 The Propagation Speed of Wave Energy |
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272 | (4) |
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15.2.1 Re-analysis of the Problem of a Wavemaker |
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272 | (2) |
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15.2.2 The Propagation Speed of Wave Energy |
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274 | (2) |
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15.3 Interaction between Wave and U-OWC |
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276 | (6) |
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15.3.1 The Logic Followed: Three Levels of Solution |
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276 | (1) |
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15.3.2 Second Level: Basic Solution |
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277 | (2) |
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15.3.3 Second Level: Advanced Solution |
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279 | (3) |
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282 | (3) |
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282 | (3) |
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Chapter 16 Design of a Wave Energy Converter |
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285 | (26) |
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16.1 The Water and Air Flow Inside a U-OWC |
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285 | (3) |
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16.2 Production of Electrical Energy from a Given Sea State |
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288 | (3) |
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16.3 Hydraulic Verifications |
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291 | (5) |
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16.3.1 Method and Objectives |
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291 | (1) |
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16.3.2 Safety Margin between Water Level and Roof of the Chamber and Pressure in Air Pocket |
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291 | (2) |
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16.3.3 Extreme Loads on Walls A, B, D |
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293 | (1) |
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16.3.4 Extreme Loads on Wall C |
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294 | (1) |
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295 | (1) |
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296 | (8) |
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16.4.1 QD Software for Hydraulic Verifications |
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296 | (8) |
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304 | (1) |
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305 | (3) |
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308 | (3) |
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308 | (3) |
Index |
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311 | |