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E-book: Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body

4.10/5 (42 ratings by Goodreads)
(Parsons School of Design, The New School, USA)
  • Format: 232 pages
  • Series: Dress Cultures
  • Pub. Date: 23-Feb-2017
  • Publisher: I.B. Tauris
  • Language: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781786720290
  • Format - EPUB+DRM
  • Price: 28,07 €*
  • * the price is final i.e. no additional discount will apply
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  • Format: 232 pages
  • Series: Dress Cultures
  • Pub. Date: 23-Feb-2017
  • Publisher: I.B. Tauris
  • Language: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781786720290

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Experimental Fashion traces the proliferation of the grotesque and carnivalesque within contemporary fashion and the close relation between fashion and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat dress to Leigh Bowery's performance style. Francesca Granata examines the designers and performance artists at the turn of the twenty-first century whose work challenges established codes of what represents the fashionable body. These innovative people, she argues, make their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humour and inversion. Experimental Fashion explores the experimental work of modern designers such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo and fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure Leigh Bowery. It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.

The fashion body unbound.

Reviews

This is a timely book in that many of the concepts discussed resonate strongly with the current cultural context: gynophobia and fear of the fat feminine body; neoliberalism, corporate greed and the "enterprising self"; and fear of border crossings and the breakdown of cultural categories. * Morna Laing, "Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture" * The strengths of this book are two-fold, both reframing Bakhtin's theory of the Grotesque body as a tool for the analysis of fashion and also its ability to theorize the very edges of fashion [ ...] [ I]n doing so, Granata does both fashion studies and design history a great service. * Ellen Sampson, "The Journal of Design History" * A very welcome contribution to the field of fashion studies, not least through its attention to an aspect of fashionexperimental fashionthat has so far been given little attention. * Agnès Rocamora, Reader in Social and Cultural Studies at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, London and author of "Fashioning the City" * [ H]er work begins to bridge a gap in literature concerned with the intersections of fashion practice and performance art. [ ...] While Granata's work is both methodologically and theoretically complex it is presented with absolute clarity and this level of accessibility is highly commendable. * Fenella Hitchcock, "Costume: The Journal of The Costume Society" * Granata continually reconsiders the grotesque within the contexts of different fields of both culture and academe. Borrowing from psychoanalysis, feminist theory, performance and film studies, she creates a vivid narrative that inspects grotesque corporealities in a variety of cultural forms through meticulous analysis of primary sources. * Jana Melkumova-Reynolds, "International Journal of Fashion Studies" *

More info

The fashion body unbound.
List of Illustrations
viii
Acknowledgements xii
Introduction 1(14)
1 Against Power Dressing: Georgina Godley
15(21)
2 Fashioning the Maternal Body: Rei Kawakubo
36(18)
3 Performing Pregnancy: Leigh Bowery
54(20)
4 Deconstruction and the Grotesque: Martin Margiela
74(29)
5 Carnivalised Time: Martin Margiela
103(16)
6 Carnival Iconography: Bernhard Willhelm
119(30)
7 The Proliferation of the Grotesque: Lady Gaga
149(12)
Interview with Nicola Bowery 161(8)
Interview with Georgina Godley 169(10)
Notes 179(19)
Bibliography 198(13)
Filmography 211(1)
Index 212
Francesca Granata is Associate Professor in the School of Art and Design History and Theory at Parsons the New School for Design, New York. She is the editor and founder of the journal Fashion Projects. Her work has appeared in Fashion Theory, Fashion Practice, and The Journal of Design History, The Atlantic as well as in a number of books and exhibition catalogues.