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Understanding the Marketing Exceptionality of Prestige Perfumes [Kõva köide]

  • Formaat: Hardback, 188 pages, kõrgus x laius: 216x138 mm, kaal: 400 g, 74 Tables, black and white; 31 Line drawings, black and white; 31 Illustrations, black and white
  • Ilmumisaeg: 27-Mar-2018
  • Kirjastus: Routledge
  • ISBN-10: 1138580783
  • ISBN-13: 9781138580787
  • Formaat: Hardback, 188 pages, kõrgus x laius: 216x138 mm, kaal: 400 g, 74 Tables, black and white; 31 Line drawings, black and white; 31 Illustrations, black and white
  • Ilmumisaeg: 27-Mar-2018
  • Kirjastus: Routledge
  • ISBN-10: 1138580783
  • ISBN-13: 9781138580787
Women have an affinity with the brand of perfume they wear. People often hold strong emotional connections to different scents, such as their mothers perfume or the body spray they wore as a teen. Despite huge marketing budgets, the launches of established brands often fail, despite extensive marketing research and lavish resources. Why is this?

This text is a first in the field to recognize that fine fragrance cannot be treated as any other product.

With case studies from Jill Sander, Estee Lauder and Dior, this book debunks the classic marketing techniques which often hinder the success of new perfumes. Authored by two leading market researchers, this study analyses the five great brands of the perfume industry and demonstrates how to value perfume lines according to brand DNA.

This ground-breaking book will provide students with all the tools of a successful practitioner in the perfume industry. Understanding the Marketing Exceptionality of Prestige Perfumes will prove to be a vital text for any student, specialist or practitioner of luxury marketing looking to understand the fine fragrance market.
List of figures
viii
List of tables
x
For the professionals xiv
Foreword xv
Preface xvii
Introducing the authors xviii
1 Moving from a luxury market to a `mass-luxury' market
1(2)
Quantitative evolution from 1985 to 2015
1(1)
Moving from an `epic era' to a `management era'
2(1)
2 The principle of affinity and DNA of a brand
3(5)
The same perfume concept does not work for everyone
5(3)
3 Motivations for buying a prestige perfume
8(11)
In-depth results
11(5)
Knowing brands by knowing affinities
16(3)
4 Introducing the notion of DNA for a perfume brand
19(7)
A second and more operational definition of the DNA of a brand
19(1)
Illustrating the DNA concept
20(6)
Brand Chanel
20(1)
Brand Dior
21(1)
Brand Thierry Mugler
22(1)
Brand Estee Lauder
23(1)
Brand Calvin Klein
24(2)
5 Discovering and pinpointing the brand DNA of five great perfume brands
26(48)
Unveiling the DNA of a brand on specific criteria using `Mind Genomics'
26(11)
What makes up a perfume mix?
26(10)
Introduction to the `method'
36(1)
The DNA of five great perfume brands
37(37)
The DNA of brand Chanel in France and the US
37(6)
The DNA of brand Dior in France
43(6)
The DNA of perfume brand Thierry Mugler (in France)
49(6)
The DNA of perfume brand Estee Lauder (US)
55(5)
The DNA of brand Calvin Klein for American women
60(14)
6 Valuing perfume lines according to specific criteria of brand DNA
74(58)
Principle
74(2)
Value of perfume lines according to criteria specific to their brand DNA
76(56)
The standards
76(1)
Value of the perfume lines of brand Chanel in France and in the US
77(9)
Value of the perfume lines of the brand Dior (in France)
86(9)
Values of the perfumes lines of brand Thierry Mugler (in France)
95(9)
Values of the perfumes lines of brand Estee Lauder (in the US)
104(12)
Value of the four perfume lines of brand Calvin Klein (in the US)
116(16)
7 A case study to explicate the method
132(18)
The perfumes and brands under study
132(1)
Identifying the segment of women who are affinity
133(1)
Unveiling the specific requirements for a perfume of brand Jil Sander
134(7)
Precious versus harmful criteria for a brand
139(2)
Conclusions about the DNA of the brand Jil Sander
141(1)
Rating the two lines: `Sun' and `Style'
141(9)
8 How to develop a second/third (or further) perfume of a brand
150(6)
9 Inside the mind -- expectations about one's perfume
156(7)
Introduction
156(1)
What expectations can a woman have?
156(7)
Type I (21%): `alluring executives/working girls'
157(1)
Type II (14%): `the reserved ones'
158(1)
Type III (13%): `the conspicuous protesters'
158(1)
Type IV (13%): `the dapper seducers'
159(1)
Type V (13%): `the social housewives'
159(1)
Type VI (13%): `the show-off wannabes'
160(1)
Type VII (12.5%): `the anti-bourgeoisie bourgeoise'
160(3)
10 About the niche brands
163(2)
11 What we should keep in mind regarding prestige perfumes
165(2)
12 The mass-market perfumes
167(9)
The notion of marketing promise
167(2)
Different kinds of perfumes for the `emotionals'
168(1)
Different kinds of perfumes for the `sensuals'
168(1)
Different kinds of perfumes for the `cold fishes'
168(1)
Perfumes devised according to the promise they are meant to convey
169(7)
13 About body sprays
176(3)
14 Summary of the rules for each of the three perfume categories
179(2)
A perfumer speaks... postscript from the standpoint of the fragrance-maker 181(2)
Thierry Trotobas
Index 183
Nithda Horoszko graduated with a specialty in computer science. Since 2004, Nithda has spent her professional career in market research institutes specialized in perfumes: Dorset first and Open Air after, first as a data processor, then as a project leader, and now 12 years later in 2016 as an associate partner. Nithda has had the very enviable responsibility of analysing and understanding perfumes, with direct access to all the surveys associated with the launches of major perfumes over the past 30 years. Over almost the past 30 years, since 1987, these perfumes include: Armani, Calvin Klein, Paco Rabanne, Vivienne Westwood, Yves Saint Laurent and many others.

David Moskowitz graduated from the Sy Syms School of Business with a degree in management information systems (MIS). He then spent 5 years studying Jewish law and ethics and received rabbinic ordination. He spent his career as a data analyst using supervised and unsupervised machine learning methods. He has developed optimization platforms for product and message optimization, reducing days of analytics to several minutes. He finished a masters degree in accounting from Baruch College.

Howard Moskowitz graduated from Harvard University in 1969 with a PhD in experimental psychology. His specialty is psychophysics, combining mathematics and psychology to understand the senses. As the president of the market research company Moskowitz Jacobs, Inc., for 33 years, Howard worked with most of the most renowned consumer goods companies. He has published 26 books and more than 350 articles and chapters. He has received many awards for his contribution to marketing and market research, among them the prestigious Charles Coolidge Parlin Award from the American Marketing Association, the Chubb Award from Sigma Xi Research Society, and an Edison Award.