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viii | |
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| For the professionals |
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xiv | |
| Foreword |
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xv | |
| Preface |
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xvii | |
| Introducing the authors |
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xviii | |
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1 Moving from a luxury market to a `mass-luxury' market |
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1 | (2) |
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Quantitative evolution from 1985 to 2015 |
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1 | (1) |
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Moving from an `epic era' to a `management era' |
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2 | (1) |
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2 The principle of affinity and DNA of a brand |
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3 | (5) |
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The same perfume concept does not work for everyone |
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5 | (3) |
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3 Motivations for buying a prestige perfume |
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8 | (11) |
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11 | (5) |
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Knowing brands by knowing affinities |
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16 | (3) |
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4 Introducing the notion of DNA for a perfume brand |
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19 | (7) |
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A second and more operational definition of the DNA of a brand |
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19 | (1) |
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Illustrating the DNA concept |
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20 | (6) |
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20 | (1) |
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21 | (1) |
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22 | (1) |
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23 | (1) |
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24 | (2) |
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5 Discovering and pinpointing the brand DNA of five great perfume brands |
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26 | (48) |
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Unveiling the DNA of a brand on specific criteria using `Mind Genomics' |
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26 | (11) |
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What makes up a perfume mix? |
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26 | (10) |
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Introduction to the `method' |
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36 | (1) |
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The DNA of five great perfume brands |
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37 | (37) |
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The DNA of brand Chanel in France and the US |
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37 | (6) |
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The DNA of brand Dior in France |
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43 | (6) |
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The DNA of perfume brand Thierry Mugler (in France) |
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49 | (6) |
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The DNA of perfume brand Estee Lauder (US) |
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55 | (5) |
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The DNA of brand Calvin Klein for American women |
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60 | (14) |
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6 Valuing perfume lines according to specific criteria of brand DNA |
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74 | (58) |
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74 | (2) |
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Value of perfume lines according to criteria specific to their brand DNA |
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76 | (56) |
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76 | (1) |
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Value of the perfume lines of brand Chanel in France and in the US |
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77 | (9) |
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Value of the perfume lines of the brand Dior (in France) |
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86 | (9) |
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Values of the perfumes lines of brand Thierry Mugler (in France) |
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95 | (9) |
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Values of the perfumes lines of brand Estee Lauder (in the US) |
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104 | (12) |
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Value of the four perfume lines of brand Calvin Klein (in the US) |
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116 | (16) |
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7 A case study to explicate the method |
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132 | (18) |
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The perfumes and brands under study |
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132 | (1) |
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Identifying the segment of women who are affinity |
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133 | (1) |
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Unveiling the specific requirements for a perfume of brand Jil Sander |
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134 | (7) |
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Precious versus harmful criteria for a brand |
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139 | (2) |
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Conclusions about the DNA of the brand Jil Sander |
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141 | (1) |
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Rating the two lines: `Sun' and `Style' |
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141 | (9) |
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8 How to develop a second/third (or further) perfume of a brand |
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150 | (6) |
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9 Inside the mind -- expectations about one's perfume |
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156 | (7) |
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156 | (1) |
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What expectations can a woman have? |
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156 | (7) |
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Type I (21%): `alluring executives/working girls' |
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157 | (1) |
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Type II (14%): `the reserved ones' |
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158 | (1) |
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Type III (13%): `the conspicuous protesters' |
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158 | (1) |
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Type IV (13%): `the dapper seducers' |
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159 | (1) |
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Type V (13%): `the social housewives' |
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159 | (1) |
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Type VI (13%): `the show-off wannabes' |
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160 | (1) |
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Type VII (12.5%): `the anti-bourgeoisie bourgeoise' |
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160 | (3) |
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10 About the niche brands |
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163 | (2) |
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11 What we should keep in mind regarding prestige perfumes |
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165 | (2) |
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12 The mass-market perfumes |
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167 | (9) |
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The notion of marketing promise |
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167 | (2) |
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Different kinds of perfumes for the `emotionals' |
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168 | (1) |
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Different kinds of perfumes for the `sensuals' |
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168 | (1) |
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Different kinds of perfumes for the `cold fishes' |
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168 | (1) |
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Perfumes devised according to the promise they are meant to convey |
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169 | (7) |
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176 | (3) |
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14 Summary of the rules for each of the three perfume categories |
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179 | (2) |
| A perfumer speaks... postscript from the standpoint of the fragrance-maker |
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181 | (2) |
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| Index |
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183 | |