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E-raamat: Design of New Weave Patterns

(Technical University of Sofia, Bulgaria)
  • Formaat: 170 pages
  • Ilmumisaeg: 01-Nov-2019
  • Kirjastus: CRC Press
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781000707717
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  • Formaat: 170 pages
  • Ilmumisaeg: 01-Nov-2019
  • Kirjastus: CRC Press
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781000707717

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This book presents a systematic study on methods used for the creation of weave patterns for simple structures. Firstly, it explains known techniques for designing new weave patterns classified as patterns merge, motifs, patterns insertion and change of the displacement number. These are discussed as possibilities to create different textures and weaving effects supported by figures of patterns, colour view, and fabric appearance simulation. Secondly, it explains original methods for design of new weave patterns based on Boolean operations, musical scores, written texts and braille alphabet, including transformations performed, advantages/disadvantages, possible applications and designs.

Foreword ix
Preface xi
Acknowledgments xiii
Author xv
SECTION I Classical Methods for Design of New Weave Patterns
Chapter 1 Brief History of Weave Patterns
3(8)
Chapter 2 Elementary Weaves
11(10)
2.1 Fabric Construction and Specifics of the Weave Pattern
11(2)
2.1.1 Warp and Weft Overlaps
11(1)
2.1.2 Warp and Weft Floats
11(2)
2.1.3 Characteristics of the Weaves
13(1)
2.2 Elementary Weaves
13(7)
2.2.1 Plain Weave
14(1)
2.2.2 Twill Weave
15(2)
2.2.3 Sateen and Satin Weaves
17(3)
References
20(1)
Chapter 3 Derivatives of the Elementary Weaves
21(18)
3.1 Basics
21(1)
3.2 Derivatives of the Plain Weave
21(4)
3.2.1 Rib Weave
21(2)
3.2.2 Hopsack Weave
23(2)
3.3 Derivatives of the Twill Weave
25(9)
3.3.1 Strengthened Twill
25(1)
3.3.2 Complex Twill
25(2)
3.3.3 Zig-Zag Twill
27(3)
3.3.4 Diamond Twill
30(1)
3.3.5 Shadowed Twill
30(4)
3.4 Derivatives of Satin and Sateen Weaves
34(5)
3.4.1 Strengthened Satin or Strengthened Sateen Weaves
34(3)
3.4.2 Shadowed Sateen Weave
37(2)
Chapter 4 New Weave Patterns Based on Patterns Merge
39(8)
4.1 Weave Patterns for Stripe Effects
39(3)
4.1.1 Vertical Stripes of Miscellaneous Weave Patterns
39(2)
4.1.2 Horizontal Stripes of Miscellaneous Weave Patterns
41(1)
4.2 Weave Patterns for Cell-Like Effects
42(5)
4.2.1 Square Weaves
42(1)
4.2.2 Fancy Basket Weaves
43(4)
Chapter 5 New Weave Patterns Based on Motifs
47(16)
5.1 Weave Patterns for Cell-Like Effecte
47(6)
5.1.1 Weaves Based on Basket Motifs
47(1)
5.1.2 Figural Rib
48(3)
5.1.3 Fancy Twill
51(2)
5.2 Weave Patterns for Diagonal Effects
53(3)
5.2.1 Diagonal Rib
53(2)
5.2.2 Broken Twill
55(1)
5.3 Weave Patterns for Zig-Zag Effects
56(2)
5.3.1 Zig-Zag Warp Rib
56(2)
5.3.2 Zig-Zag Weft Rib
58(1)
5.4 Crepe Weaves
58(5)
5.4.1 Crepe Weaves Based on Threads Rearrangement
59(2)
5.4.2 Crepe Weaves Based on a Motif and a Composition
61(2)
Chapter 6 New Weave Patterns Based on Patterns Insertion
63(12)
6.1 Weave Patterns for Rib-Like Effects
63(6)
6.1.1 Tightened Rib with Additional Overlaps
63(2)
6.1.2 Tightened Rib with Additional Threads
65(1)
6.1.3 Tightened Twill with Additional Weft Threads
65(2)
6.1.4 Tightened Satin or Sateen with Additional Weft Threads
67(2)
6.2 Weave Patterns for Diagonal Effects
69(2)
6.2.1 Fancy Diagonal Twill by Warp Insertion
69(1)
6.2.2 Fancy Diagonal Twill by Weft Insertion
69(2)
6.3 Crepe Weaves
71(4)
6.3.1 Crepe Weave by Inserting Additional Overlaps
71(1)
6.3.2 Crepe Weave by Inserting One Weave over Another
72(1)
6.3.3 Crepe Weave by Inserting the Threads of Two Weaves in a Given Relationship
72(3)
Chapter 7 New Weave Patterns Based on the Change of the Displacement Number
75(12)
7.1 Weave Patterns for Diagonal Effects
75(3)
7.1.1 Steep Twill
77(1)
7.1.2 Reclined Twill
77(1)
7.2 Weave Patterns for Curved Effects
78(4)
7.2.1 Longitudinally Curved Twill Weave
78(1)
7.2.2 Transversally Curved Twill Weave
79(3)
7.3 Weave Patterns for Zig-Zag Effects
82(5)
7.3.1 Herringbone Twill
82(1)
7.3.2 Curved Zig-Zag Twill Weave
82(5)
SECTION II New Methods for Design of New Weave Patterns
Chapter 8 New Weave Patterns Based on Boolean Operations
87(18)
8.1 The Concept of the Method
87(1)
8.2 The Boolean Operations in Weave Patterns' Design
88(8)
8.3 Features of the Implementation of the Method
96(2)
8.3.1 Effect of the Basic Weave Designation
96(1)
8.3.2 Effect of the Basic Weave Commence
97(1)
8.4 Assessment of the New Weave
98(1)
8.5 Design Experiments
99(5)
8.6 Application of the Method
104(1)
References
104(1)
Chapter 9 New Weave Patterns Based on Musical Scores
105(10)
9.1 The Concept of the Method
105(1)
9.2 Design Method
105(2)
9.2.1 Specifics of the Weave Patterns
105(1)
9.2.2 Transformation Method
105(2)
9.2.3 Warp and Weft Repeats
107(1)
9.3 Assessment of the New Weave
107(1)
9.4 Design Experiments
108(5)
9.4.1 Weave Pattern "Happy Birthday to You"
108(1)
9.4.2 Weave Pattern "Summer Time"
108(2)
9.4.3 Weave Pattern "The Moonlight Sonata"
110(1)
9.4.4 Weave Pattern "Toccata and Fugue in D Minor"
110(3)
9.5 Application of the Method
113(1)
Acknowledgment
114(1)
References
114(1)
Chapter 10 New Weave Patterns Based on Text Interpretations
115(22)
10.1 The Concept of the Method
115(1)
10.2 Transformation Approaches
115(6)
10.2.1 Basic Approach
115(2)
10.2.2 Application of Different Transformation Matrices
117(4)
10.3 Possible Variations of the Method
121(1)
10.3.1 Variations, Based on the Size of the Transformation Matrix from Letters to Digits
121(1)
10.3.2 Variations Based on the Direction of the Transformation
121(1)
10.3.3 Variations Based on the View of the Weave Pattern
121(1)
10.3.4 Variations Based on the Number of Overlaps over a Single Thread
121(1)
10.4 Design Experiments
122(12)
10.4.1 Weave Pattern "All you need is love"
122(5)
10.4.2 Weave Pattern "Shakespeare"
127(1)
10.4.3 Weave Pattern "Last Christmas"
127(3)
10.4.4 Weave Pattern "Let it be"
130(4)
10.5 Assessment of the New Weave
134(1)
10.6 Application of the Method
135(2)
Chapter 11 New Weave Patterns Based on the Braille Alphabet
137(14)
11.1 The Concept
137(1)
11.2 Possible Variations of the Method
137(6)
11.2.1 The Use of the Image
137(1)
11.2.2 The Use of the Number of Dots
138(5)
11.3 Design Experiments
143(6)
11.3.1 Weave Pattern "Bulgaria"
143(1)
11.3.2 Weave Pattern "Better late than never"
143(6)
11.4 Assessment of the New Weave
149(1)
11.5 Application of the Method
150(1)
Index 151
Radostina A. Angelova is an associated professor at the Department of Textiles, Technical University of Sofia (TU-Sofia). She is also an associated researcher at the Centre for Research and Design in Human Comfort, Energy and Environment at TU-Sofia. She is a lecturer in spinning technologies and machines, weaving technologies and machines, and design of yarns and fabrics. Angelova holds an MSc degree in textiles and clothing (1994), a PhD in technology of textile materials (2001), and a DSc in technology of textile materials (2015). She authored more than 100 papers, 4 textbooks, and 1 book.