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E-raamat: Discovering Cosmetic Science

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Edited by (Venture Logic Ltd, UK), Edited by (Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association, UK), Edited by (Skin Thinking Ltd., UK), Edited by (Cosmarida, UK), Edited by (Orean Personal Care, UK)
  • Formaat: EPUB+DRM
  • Ilmumisaeg: 23-Sep-2020
  • Kirjastus: Royal Society of Chemistry
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781788017138
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Discovering Cosmetic ScienceSuurem pilt
  • Formaat: EPUB+DRM
  • Ilmumisaeg: 23-Sep-2020
  • Kirjastus: Royal Society of Chemistry
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781788017138
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Welcome to this ‘novice’s guide’. At last a book that explains the real science behind the cosmetics we use.

Welcome to this ‘novice’s guide’. At last a book that explains the real science behind the cosmetics we use. Taking a gentle approach and a guided journey through the different product types, we discover that they are not as superficial as often thought and learn that there is some amazing science behind them. We shall uncover some of the truths behind the myths and point out some interesting facts on our way.

Did you know? Vitamin E is the world’s most used cosmetic active ingredient.; At just 1mm thick, your amazing skin keeps out just about everything it’s exposed to – including your products!; A ‘chemical soup’ of amino acids, urea, mineral salts and organic acids act as ‘water magnets’ in the skin keeping it naturally moisturised.; Discovered centuries ago, iron oxides (yes, the same chemicals as rust) are still commonly used inorganic pigments in foundations.; A lipstick is a fine balance of waxes, oils and colourants to keep the stick stable and leave an even gloss on your lips.

Cosmetic science and the personal care industry are often misrepresented. This book will educate and inform the public and the wider science community about the sound science they are based on. In the process many positive aspects of cosmetic chemistry can be revealed, from creating colours, fragrances and sensorial formulations to understanding the important interactions of UV light with organic and inorganic absorbers and blending these for effective SPF sunscreens. Providing background material for education and as an accessible scientific title for the interested lay reader, this book shows chemistry in an everyday context based on the real world and dispelling the many myths.

Arvustused

'The scope of this book is as wide as cosmetic science itself.'; 'It is a book that was written in a balanced way, one that caters for both scientists and for the general public.'; 'Consequently, the quality of Discovering Cosmetic Science is a result of the breadth of fields of expertise shared by all contributors.'; 'Discovering Cosmetic Science is current, relevant and scientifically accurate.'; 'The books content is of practical relevance; in this book, the reader will not find obsolete information or impractical theories, but instead will find established scientific knowledge that is used daily by cosmetic scientists for creating cosmetic products.' * International Journal Cosmetic Science *

Muu info

Discover the science that's really behind your everyday cosmetics and personal care.
Chapter 1 Introduction
1(18)
Steve Barton
Allan Eastham
Amanda Isom
Denise McLaverty
Yi Ling Soong
Rachael Polowyj
1.1 How Many Cosmetic Products Do You Use in the Day?
2(1)
1.2 What Is a `Cosmetic'?
3(2)
1.3 What Goes into a Cosmetic Product?
5(5)
1.4 The Importance of the Identities and Structures of Chemical Compounds
10(2)
1.4.1 Organic and Inorganic Chemistry
11(1)
1.4.2 Carbon Chains and Carbon Rings
11(1)
1.5 The Importance of How Chemical Compounds Are Held Together
12(1)
1.5.1 Did You Know That Some Ingredients in Cosmetic Products Have an Electrical Charge?
12(1)
1.5.2 Did You Know That Some Ingredients in Cosmetic Products Have `Polarity'?
12(1)
1.5.3 Did You Know That Some Compounds Are Held Together More Strongly Than Others?
13(1)
1.6 The Importance of How Chemical Compounds Fall Apart
13(1)
1.7 Prepared to Read On?
14(4)
Reference
18(1)
Chapter 2 Clean Chemistry - The Science Behind Cleansing Products
19(24)
Edward Rolls
2.1 Introduction to Surfactant Behaviour
19(7)
2.1.1 So, What Makes Surfactants So Special?
19(1)
2.1.2 How Does the Special Structure Affect How Surfactants Behave?
20(1)
2.1.3 Why Isn't Using Water Alone Enough to Clean Things?
21(2)
2.1.4 Experiment at Home
23(1)
2.1.5 How Do Surfactants Create Foam?
23(2)
2.1.6 How Do Surfactants Help to Clean Dirt Away?
25(1)
2.2 Surfactants Used for Cleaning
26(5)
2.3 Secondary Surfactants - Luxurious, Creamy Foams
31(4)
2.4 Finishing Touches
35(2)
2.5 Alternative Systems
37(1)
2.6 Natural/Organic and Sustainability
38(4)
2.7 Conclusion
42(1)
Chapter 3 Good Hair Day: The Science Behind Hair-care Products
43(32)
P. Cornwell
J. Lim
3.1 Introduction
43(1)
3.2 Hair Structure
44(8)
3.3 Hair Diversity
52(2)
3.4 The Living Follicle
54(3)
3.5 Sebum and Hair Greasiness
57(1)
3.6 Hair Damage
58(2)
3.7 Hair Thinning and Hair Loss
60(1)
3.8 Hair Greying
61(1)
3.9 Shampoo Surfactant Bases
62(2)
3.10 Shampoo Conditioning Systems
64(2)
3.11 Hair Conditioners
66(3)
3.12 Hair Styling
69(1)
3.13 Straightening Treatments
70(3)
3.14 Bringing It All Together
73(1)
References
73(2)
Chapter 4 Oral Care -- A Mouthful of Chemistry
75(34)
Eleanor Roberts
Stephen Mason
4.1 Physiology of Teeth
75(4)
4.1.1 Overview and Structure
75(2)
4.1.2 Enamel and Dentine
77(1)
4.1.3 Saliva
77(1)
4.1.4 The Pellicle
78(1)
4.2 When Good Mouths Go Bad
79(9)
4.2.1 Plaque (aka Dental Biofilm)
79(1)
4.2.2 Dental Calculus (aka Tartar)
80(1)
4.2.3 Periodontal Disease (Gum Disease)
80(2)
4.2.4 Tooth Decay (aka Dental Caries)
82(2)
4.2.5 Tooth Wear (aka Dental Erosion)
84(1)
4.2.6 Dentinal Hypersensitivity (aka `Sensitive Teeth')
85(2)
4.2.7 Tooth Stain and Whitening
87(1)
4.2.8 Oral Malodour (Bad Breath)
88(1)
4.3 Just What Are All These Ingredients in My Oral Care Product?
88(19)
4.3.1 Overview
88(2)
4.3.2 Fluoride
90(3)
4.3.3 Abrasives
93(1)
4.3.4 Anti-sensitivity
94(3)
4.3.5 Stain Removal/Whitening
97(3)
4.3.6 Anti-gingivitis
100(2)
4.3.7 Calculus Control
102(1)
4.3.8 Enamel Care
102(1)
4.3.9 Other Ingredients
102(2)
4.3.10 Mouthwash
104(1)
4.3.11 How Are Claims for Oral Care Product Performance Substantiated?
104(3)
4.4 Conclusion
107(1)
Further Reading
107(1)
References
108(1)
Chapter 5 You Against the World! -- The Science Behind Skin and Skincare Products
109(46)
Robin Parker
Nichola Roberts
Monique Burke
5.1 The Skin -- What Exactly Does Our Skin Do?
109(7)
5.1.1 Skin Deep -- What Is Beneath the Surface?
110(4)
5.1.2 We Are Not Alone -- What's On The Surface?
114(2)
5.2 One Size Fits All? -- All Skin Is Different
116(8)
5.2.1 How and Why Does the Skin's Appearance Change with Age?
116(4)
5.2.2 Does Skin Vary from Individual to Individual?
120(2)
5.2.3 Are There Differences Between Men's and Women's Skin?
122(2)
5.3 Staying on the Surface -- Do Cosmetic Ingredients Go into The Skin?
124(2)
5.4 What Goes into Skincare Products and Why -- Care and Protection for Your Skin
126(3)
5.4.1 How Do Cosmetics Make a Difference to Skin Appearance?
127(2)
5.5 Moisturization -- Where Chemistry Meets Biology
129(3)
5.5.1 What Is the Difference Between Moisturization and Hydration?
129(2)
5.5.2 Which Ingredients Are Important in an Effective Skin Moisturizer?
131(1)
5.6 Emulsions -- Better Together!
132(9)
5.6.1 What Are Emulsifiers and Why Are They All Different?
135(3)
5.6.2 How Can We Make Emulsions Stable for Several Years?
138(3)
5.7 Touch and Texture -- It's Just A Feeling
141(7)
5.7.1 What Is Rheology and Why Is It So Important in Skincare?
142(2)
5.7.2 How Can We Control the Rheology and Skin Feel of Cosmetic Creams?
144(2)
5.7.3 By What Other Ways Can We Affect the Feel of Skincare Formulas?
146(2)
5.8 Different Types of Skincare Products
148(5)
5.8.1 Why Do We Have Day and Night Moisturizers, and Are They Different?
148(1)
5.8.2 Do Men Need Different Moisturizers to Women?
149(1)
5.8.3 How Important Are Skincare Regimes and What Are the Necessary Products?
149(3)
5.8.4 Are the Skin Concerns for the Body the Same As Those for the Face? -- How Many Different Moisturizers Do We Need?
152(1)
5.9 Conclusion
153(1)
References
153(2)
Chapter 6 More Than a Smudge of Colour -- The Science Behind Colour Cosmetics
155(37)
Claire Summers
Pauline Dubois
6.1 Why Does Something Appear Coloured?
155(6)
6.2 How Can We Create Coloured Products?
161(12)
6.2.1 Dyes
162(1)
6.2.2 Why Pigments Are Crucial for Colour Cosmetics
163(5)
6.2.3 Are Inorganic and Organic Pigments the Only Materials Used to Create Colour?
168(5)
6.3 Are Pigments Easy to Use?
173(4)
6.3.1 How Do You Disperse Pigments?
174(3)
6.4 Why the Texture of Cosmetic Formulations Is so Important
177(7)
6.4.1 Foundations -- Are They More Than Just Colour?
178(3)
6.4.2 Powders -- Simple Yet Surprisingly Complex
181(2)
6.4.3 Lipsticks -- More Than Lip Service
183(1)
6.5 The Art of Colour Matching
184(1)
6.6 Curl up and Dye?
184(7)
6.6.1 Oxidation and pH
187(3)
6.6.2 Natural Dyes
190(1)
6.6.3 Temporary Hair Colourants
190(1)
6.7 Conclusion
191(1)
Further Reading
191(1)
Chapter 7 Follow the Scent -- The Science Behind the Fragrance in Products
192(33)
V. Daniau
7.1 Sources and Mechanism of Odour Formation
192(2)
7.1.1 Mechanisms
193(1)
7.2 Odour Recognition (Box 7.1)
194(1)
7.2.1 Specialized Olfactory Sensory Neurons
194(1)
7.2.2 Infinite Combinations
194(1)
7.3 Smell and Emotions
195(1)
7.4 The Message Carried by a Fragrance
196(1)
7.5 Creating and Masking Odours
197(11)
7.5.1 The Creative Process and the Teams Involved
197(4)
7.5.2 The Construction of a Fragrance
201(3)
7.5.3 Fragrance Families
204(2)
7.5.4 Fragrances in Different Bases and Products
206(2)
7.5.5 Covering Malodours
208(1)
7.6 Stability: Why Do Fragrances Change Over Time?
208(4)
7.6.1 Base Interaction
208(1)
7.6.2 Stability
209(3)
7.7 Essential Chemistry
212(4)
7.7.1 How Were Aroma Chemicals Discovered?
212(3)
7.7.2 Categories of Aroma Molecules
215(1)
7.8 Extraction Methods
216(7)
7.8.1 Expression
216(3)
7.8.2 Distillation
219(2)
7.8.3 Solvent Extraction
221(1)
7.8.4 Developments in Scientific Research Methods to Analyse Natural Scents
222(1)
7.9 Conclusion
223(1)
Further Reading
224(1)
Chapter 8 The Inside Story -- The Science Behind Active Ingredients
225(37)
C. Metcalfe
T. Causer
8.1 Vitamins
226(5)
8.1.1 Where Do Vitamins Come From?
226(1)
8.1.2 Oil-soluble Vitamins
227(2)
8.1.3 Water-soluble Vitamins
229(2)
8.1.4 Minerals
231(1)
8.1.5 Other Vitamins
231(1)
8.2 Peptides
231(4)
8.2.1 Why Are Peptides Useful in Cosmetics?
232(1)
8.2.2 How Are Peptides Named?
233(1)
8.2.3 Discovering New Peptide Ingredients
233(1)
8.2.4 Which Peptides Are Commonly Used?
234(1)
8.2.5 Is It Just Hype?
234(1)
8.3 Hydroxy Acids
235(2)
8.3.1 Why Are Hydroxy Acids Useful in Cosmetics?
236(1)
8.3.2 Hydroxy Acids in Peel Products
236(1)
8.3.3 Using Products Containing AHAs
237(1)
8.4 UV Filters: Protecting Products and the Skin/Hair
237(4)
8.4.1 The Electromagnetic Spectrum
237(1)
8.4.2 What Is Sun Protection Factor (SPF)?
238(1)
8.4.3 How Does UVA Protection Differ from SPF?
239(1)
8.4.4 How Do Sunscreen Products Work?
239(1)
8.4.5 Product Innovation
240(1)
8.4.6 Why Do Coloured Cosmetics Sometimes Contain UV Filters Even If They Don't Offer UV Protection?
240(1)
8.4.7 The Hair Needs Protecting Too!
240(1)
8.5 Antioxidants
241(4)
8.5.1 What Is Oxidation?
241(3)
8.5.2 How Do Antioxidants Work?
244(1)
8.6 Antimicrobials
245(8)
8.6.1 The Germs (Microorganisms) Around Us
246(4)
8.6.2 Products Need Protecting - `Preserving'
250(1)
8.6.3 What Happens if Cosmetics Are Not Preserved?
251(1)
8.6.4 How Do Companies Know If Their Products Will Remain Safe If They Become Contaminated?
251(2)
8.6.5 Antimicrobial Protection on the Skin
253(1)
8.7 Natural Extracts
253(3)
8.7.1 Producing Natural Extracts Using Stem Cells
256(1)
8.8 Delivery Systems
256(3)
8.8.1 Why and Where Are Delivery Systems Used?
257(1)
8.8.2 Examples of Delivery Systems
258(1)
8.9 Antiperspirant and Deodorant Effects
259(2)
8.9.1 What Is the Difference Between an Antiperspirant and a Deodorant?
259(1)
8.9.2 Why Do Antiperspirants and Deodorants Come in Different Formats?
260(1)
8.10 Conclusion
261(1)
Chapter 9 Testing and More Testing -- The Science Behind Keeping Your Skin Safe and Healthy
262(28)
Stephen Kirk
9.1 Cosmetic Products -- How We Keep You and Your Skin Safe and Healthy
262(1)
9.2 Stability Testing -- Making Sure a Product Is Fit for Purpose
263(10)
9.2.1 Microbiological Testing -- Will It Go Mouldy?
264(5)
9.2.2 Chemical Stability -- Will My Product Change Colour?
269(3)
9.2.3 Period After Opening (PAO) and Shelf-life -- How Long Will It Be Okay to Use?
272(1)
9.3 Safety Assessment of Cosmetic Ingredients and Finished Products -- Is My Chosen Product Going to Harm Me?
273(5)
9.3.1 Hazard and Risk -- The Tale of a Shark and the Swimmer
273(3)
9.3.2 Identifying the Hazard Characteristics of a Cosmetic Ingredient
276(1)
9.3.3 Testing New Cosmetic Ingredients Using Non-animal Alternative Methods
277(1)
9.4 Product Claims -- Will My Product Do What It Says on the Tin?
278(6)
9.4.1 Sun Protection Testing -- Will My Cream Protect Me from the Harmful Effects of the Sun?
278(6)
9.5 Safety-related Claims Made on Some Products
284(3)
9.5.1 Will Your Product Damage My Eyes or Make Them Sting?
284(1)
9.5.2 Hypoallergenic -- Exactly What Does This Mean?
285(2)
9.6 Post-market Surveillance -- the Customer's Story of Using a Product
287(1)
9.7 What Does All This Mean to Me?
288(1)
Further Reading
288(2)
Chapter 10 Myths and Scares -- Science in Perspective
290(23)
E. Meredith
R. Polowyj
10.1 Are Cosmetics Tested on Animals?
291(1)
10.1.1 European Union (EU)
291(1)
10.1.2 Global Challenges
292(1)
10.2 How Much Does the Skin Absorb?
292(2)
10.2.1 Myth -- 60% of Everything You Put on Your Skin Is Absorbed
293(1)
10.2.2 Fact -- Different Skin Types Have Different Barrier Functionality
293(1)
10.3 Should I Avoid Certain Ingredients?
294(7)
10.3.1 Why Are Some Products Labelled As Being `Free-from' Certain Ingredients?
294(2)
10.3.2 Parabens
296(1)
10.3.3 Sulfates
297(1)
10.3.4 Silicones
297(2)
10.3.5 How Do I Know That the Ingredients in the Products I Use Are Safe?
299(1)
10.3.6 Do Cosmetics Contain Hormone-disrupting Ingredients?
300(1)
10.4 What Is the Difference Between Natural and Synthetic Ingredients?
301(3)
10.5 Do Cosmetics Pollute the Oceans?
304(5)
10.5.1 Do Cosmetics Contain Plastic Microbeads?
306(1)
10.5.2 Are Cosmetics a Cause of Microplastics?
306(1)
10.5.3 Why Is Plastic Packaging So Often Used to Package Cosmetics?
307(2)
10.5.4 Are Sunscreens Damaging to Coral?
309(1)
10.6 Why Are Cosmetics So Important?
309(2)
10.7 Having Confidence in Cosmetic Products
311(1)
References
312(1)
Appendix 1 313(4)
Subject Index 317(22)
Reviews 339
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