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E-raamat: Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology

(University of Guelph, Ontario), (University of Windsor, Ontario),
  • Formaat: PDF+DRM
  • Ilmumisaeg: 19-Sep-2019
  • Kirjastus: Cambridge University Press
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781108337540
  • Formaat - PDF+DRM
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  • Formaat: PDF+DRM
  • Ilmumisaeg: 19-Sep-2019
  • Kirjastus: Cambridge University Press
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781108337540

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Written for anyone interested in coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the resulting features seen in coastal systems across the world. Accessible to students from a range of disciplines, the quantitative approach of this book helps to build a solid understanding of wave and current processes that shape coastlines. From sandy beaches to coral reefs, the major coastal features are related to contemporary processes and to sea-level changes over the past 25,000 years. Key equations describing these processes and standard methods and instrumentation used to collect measurements are all presented in this wide-ranging overview. Designed to support a one- or two-semester course and grounded in current research, this second edition has been substantially updated and rewritten - featuring cutting-edge new topics, insights from new models and technologies, additional global examples and an enhanced package of online teaching materials.

Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.

Arvustused

'Given the impending challenges at the coast under the impacts of global climate change, it is heartening to encounter this well-presented text on the interaction of processes and sediment supply that provide the characteristics of the present coastal features. The writing style is that of being in the classroom and being exposed to the lectures on the topic, replete with background, a variety of perspectives, and areas of continued need for research. It is the essence of communication for the purpose of generating understanding and appreciating the vectors of change at many levels now and into the future. BRAVO!!' Norbert Psuty, Rutgers University 'This substantially updated second edition is a well-balanced and authoritative introduction to a wide range of coastal systems, usefully supported by examples drawn from across the globe. Written by acknowledged coastal experts, the text is grounded in morphodynamics yet styled to allow easy access to a wide spectrum of readers, reaching out beyond coastal scientists to include those who manage the coast. The use of special interest boxes serves as an elegant device linking an understanding of morphodynamics to key coastal management issues. This book is an authoritative key text for all those with an interest in coastal processes and geomorphology.' Jim Hansom, University of Glasgow 'The book is more than a remarkable introduction to coastal geomorphology, building up with team synergy on the first edition published a few years ago Written by three scientists that have contributed substantively, and still do, to the understanding of coasts and the geomorphic processes involved in the construction, shaping and reworking of coastal landforms, the second edition of this book finely crystallizes cutting-edge research in coastal geomorphology. The book will be appealing to students and scholars from a range of disciplines. The text is well-balanced with good, clear diagrams and figures, and each chapter backed by up-to-date references and supplementary information on coastal processes in a box format. This book deserves to appear on your shelves. I will certainly recommend it to students and to colleagues.' Edward Anthony, Centre Européen de Recherche et d'Enseignement des Géosciences de l'Environnement, Aix-Marseille University; Editor-in-Chief of Marine Geology Review of the First Edition: ' combines an accessible yet scholarly treatment of the underlying processes with a broad range of interesting case studies. Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology would certainly be my current choice for a course text in this field.' Geological Magazine Praise for the First Edition: 'This excellent book is both well-written and illustrated it will more than satisfy undergraduate coastal geomorphology students yet it is also clear and accessible enough to be of great use to students from a range of disciplines one of the best coastal geomorphology texts available.' Jim Hansom, University of Glasgow

Muu info

Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material.
Preface xi
Acknowledgements xv
Part I Introduction
1(28)
1 Introduction
3(6)
1.1 Humans and the Coastal Zone
3(2)
1.2 Approaches to the Study of Coasts
5(1)
1.3 Information Sources
6(3)
2 Coastal Geomorphology
9(20)
2.1 Definition and Scope
9(2)
2.2 The Coastal Zone
11(7)
2.3 Controls on Coastal Form and Evolution
18(1)
2.4 Shoreline Mapping and Technological Innovation
19(2)
2.5 Understanding and Modelling Coastal Dynamics
21(4)
2.6 Uncertainty in Predicting Coastal Evolution
25(4)
Part II Coastal Processes
29(198)
3 Sea Level
31(44)
3.1 Synopsis
31(1)
3.2 Defining Mean Sea Level
32(4)
3.3 Changes in Mean Sea Level
36(7)
3.4 Astronomical Tides
43(12)
3.5 Short-Term Dynamic Changes in Sea Level
55(8)
3.6 Climate Change and Sea Level Rise
63(12)
4 Wind-Generated Waves
75(34)
4.1 Synopsis
75(1)
4.2 Wave Definition and Description
76(4)
4.3 Wave Generation
80(6)
4.4 Wave Measurement and Parameterisation
86(15)
4.5 Wave Prediction
101(4)
4.6 Wave Climate
105(4)
5 Wave Dynamics
109(48)
5.1 Synopsis
109(1)
5.2 Wave Theory
110(8)
5.3 High-Order Wave Theories
118(4)
5.4 Wave Transformations in Intermediate Water Depths
122(6)
5.5 Wave Breaking
128(20)
5.6 Wave Groups and Low-Frequency Modes of Energy
148(9)
6 Surf Zone Circulation
157(26)
6.1 Synopsis
157(1)
6.2 Undertow
158(6)
6.3 Rip Cells
164(10)
6.4 Longshore Currents
174(3)
6.5 Wind and Tidal Currents
177(6)
7 Coastal Sediment Transport
183(44)
7.1 Synopsis
183(1)
7.2 Sediment Transport Mechanisms, Boundary Layers and Bedforms
183(11)
7.3 Cross-Shore Sediment Transport
194(6)
7.4 Longshore Sand Transport
200(11)
7.5 Littoral Sediment Budget and Littoral Drift Cells
211(16)
Part III Coastal Systems
227(290)
8 Beach and Nearshore Systems
229(51)
8.1 Synopsis
229(1)
8.2 Beach and Nearshore Sediments and Morphology
230(19)
8.3 Nearshore Morphodynamics
249(14)
8.4 Beach Morphodynamics
263(17)
9 Coastal Sand Dunes and Aeolian Processes
280(63)
9.1 Synopsis
280(2)
9.2 Morphology and Structure of Coastal Dunes and Dune Fields
282(13)
9.3 Foredune Morphodynamics and Maintenance
295(7)
9.4 Aeolian Processes on Beaches and Dunes
302(15)
9.5 Flow Modification and Wind Steering by Topography
317(7)
9.6 Geometric Controls on Sand Delivery to Foredunes
324(3)
9.7 Prediction of Long-Term Sediment Delivery to Foredunes
327(1)
9.8 Long-Term Foredune Evolution and Beach-Dune Interaction
328(15)
10 Barrier Systems
343(52)
10.1 Synopsis
343(1)
10.2 Barrier Types and Morphology
344(6)
10.3 Barrier Dynamics: Overwash and Inlets
350(20)
10.4 Barrier Spit Morphodynamics
370(5)
10.5 Barrier Islands
375(6)
10.6 Anthropogenic Impacts and Natural Hazards
381(14)
11 Saltmarshes and Mangroves
395(49)
11.1 Synopsis
395(1)
11.2 Saltmarsh and Mangrove Ecosystems
395(3)
11.3 Saltmarshes
398(32)
11.4 Mangroves
430(14)
12 Coral Reefs and Atolls
444(32)
12.1 Synopsis
444(1)
12.2 Corals and Reef Formation
445(5)
12.3 Geomorphology and Sedimentology of Coral Reefs
450(16)
12.4 Impacts of Disturbance on Coral Reefs
466(10)
13 Cliffed and Rocky Coasts
476(41)
13.1 Synopsis
476(1)
13.2 Cliffed Coast Morphology
477(3)
13.3 Cliffed Coast Erosion System
480(8)
13.4 Erosion of Soft Rock Cliff Coasts
488(16)
13.5 Hard Rock Coasts
504(13)
Index 517
Robin Davidson-Arnott has been a Professor in the Department of Geography at the University of Guelph, Ontario since 1976. He was a member of the Task Force of the International Joint Commission (Canada/USA) Great Lakes Water Levels Reference Study Phase 1 (19879), and was seconded as a Scientist to the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources Development of Ontario Shoreline Management Policy and Technical Guideline (19925), and to the International Joint Commission (Canada/USA) Upper Great Lakes Water Level Regulation Study (200711). He has worked as a consultant for a number of studies for Ontario Conservation Authorities and Parks, Canada, and was awarded the R. J. Russell Award from the Coastal and Marine Specialty Group of the Association of American Geographers in 2000. He has received continuous support in his research from the Natural Sciences and Engineering Research Council of Canada for over thirty years. He has authored and co-authored many books and journal articles on the subject, including a contribution to Geomorphology and Global Environmental Change (Cambridge, 2009). Bernard Bauer is a process geomorphologist with research and teaching experience in coastal, aeolian, and fluvial environments. He is the recipient of the HydroLab Award from the International Association for Great Lakes Research, the R. J. Russell Award from the Association of American Geographers, and a Presidential Young Investigator Award from the US National Science Foundation (NSF). His research has been conducted in Canada, USA, Australia, New Zealand, and Ireland, leading to peer-reviewed publications in major international journals. He has held administrative positions as Department Chair at the University of Southern California, Faculty Dean, and Associate Provost at the University of British Columbia, Okanagan, and he also served as a Program Director at the US National Science Foundation. He now devotes considerable time as a volunteer member of committees dealing with water sustainability issues in the Okanagan, British Columbia. Chris Houser is a coastal geomorphologist with a focus on barrier island response and recovery to storms and sea level rise, physical and social dimensions of the rip current hazard, and scale interaction in coastal systems. His research has been conducted in Canada, the United States, Australia, Denmark, and Costa Rica, leading to peer-reviewed publications on coastal geomorphology, geology, coastal management, and beach safety. He has held academic and administrative positions at the University of West Florida, Texas A & M University, and the University of Windsor, and is currently the Dean of Science at Windsor.