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E-raamat: Men's Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950

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  • Formaat: 474 pages
  • Ilmumisaeg: 05-Aug-2019
  • Kirjastus: Routledge
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9780429809002
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Men's Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950Suurem pilt
  • Formaat: 474 pages
  • Ilmumisaeg: 05-Aug-2019
  • Kirjastus: Routledge
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9780429809002
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Mens Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950 introduces the reader to English tailoring and covers the drafting of patterns, cutting out in cloth, and the complete traditional construction techniques in sequence for the tailoring of a waistcoat, trousers and jacket. The book contains:











step-by-step instructions, complete with illustrations, for students and costumiers who are new to the making of male tailored garments from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries;











drafting blocks and construction techniques for the main three styles of nineteenth century male garments: frock coat, morning coat and dress coat;











patterns, photographs and detailed measurements taken from a variety of male coats, jackets, waistcoats and trousers from c1830 - c1950 from museums and collections.

From choosing the right cloth to preparing for the fitting process, this how-to guide will help readers create beautiful, historically accurate three-piece suits for events and performances.
Introduction xiii
Acknowledgements xv
Chapter 1 Getting Started
1(18)
Equipment needed
3(1)
Some basic tailoring rules
4(1)
Glossary of tailoring terminology and abbreviations
4(3)
Measurements
7(7)
The tailor's square, the drafting power and the working scales
14(3)
Working with a costume designer and/or supervisor
17(1)
Period styles and detail
18(1)
Chapter 2 The Block Drafts and Diagrams
19(34)
Introduction to the blocks
21(2)
Adapting the blocks to meet other styles and periods
23(1)
The single-breasted (SB) waistcoat block and diagram
24(7)
Adapting the block to a double-breasted (DB) waistcoat
31(1)
The trouser block and diagram
32(6)
Adapting the pattern to add pleats to the trouser front
38(2)
The single-breasted (SB) jacket block and diagram
40(7)
Adapting the block to a double-breasted (DB) jacket
47(1)
The sleeve block and diagram for jacket, frock, morning and dress coat
48(5)
Chapter 3 Inlays, Allowances and Cloth
53(16)
Understanding inlays and making up allowances Theatrical allowances
55(11)
What cloth should I use?
66(1)
Using striped or checked material
67(1)
Tailoring quantities
68(1)
Chapter 4 Cutting Out and Marking Up
69(16)
General points on cutting out, marking up and making up
71(3)
Waistcoat cutting out and marking up
74(2)
Trouser cutting out and marking up
76(1)
Jacket cutting out and marking up
77(2)
Basting, tacking, tailor's chalk, mark stitching instructions and diagrams
79(6)
Chapter 5 Preparing for the Fitting and the Fitting Process
85(26)
Preparing the waistcoat for the first fitting
87(7)
Preparing the trousers for the first fitting
94(1)
Preparing the jacket for the first fitting
95(9)
The fitting process for trousers/waistcoat/jacket or coat
104(2)
Fitting the trousers
106(2)
Fitting the waistcoat
108(1)
Fitting the jacket or coat
109(2)
Chapter 6 Making Up the Waistcoat
111(38)
After the fitting
113(1)
Sewing out the darts
113(1)
Welt pockets
114(17)
Making the waistcoat collar
131(5)
The front facing and lining
136(3)
Sewing out the front armhole
139(1)
Finishing the hem and lower part of the side seam
140(2)
Putting the backs to the fronts
142(2)
Final finishing
144(1)
Buttons and buttonholes
145(4)
Chapter 7 Making Up the Trousers
149(20)
After the fitting
151(1)
The final making up of the trousers
151(1)
The side entry and sloping pockets
151(5)
The concealed button fly
156(4)
Putting the front trouser pieces to the back
160(1)
The waistband
160(3)
Completing the trousers starting with the inside leg seams
163(3)
Finishing the hems
166(2)
Final finishing and fastenings
168(1)
Chapter 8 Making Up the Jacket
169(44)
After the fitting
171(1)
The outbreast pocket
171(1)
The front jetted pockets and front pocket flaps
172(12)
Re-attaching the canvas to the jacket fronts and making some canvas cuts
184(2)
Preparing the break line
186(1)
Pad stitching the lapels
187(2)
Preparing the front edges for facing out
189(3)
Cutting out the front facings
192(1)
Cutting out the jacket linings
193(1)
Adding an inbreast pocket
194(6)
Sewing out the lapels and centre front edge
200(3)
Securing the lining and facing to the canvas
203(3)
Vents and hem canvas
206(3)
Putting the backs to the fronts
209(1)
Finishing the lining at the side seam and hem
210(1)
Shoulder seams and preparing the armholes
211(2)
Chapter 9 Making Up the Sleeves, Collar, Buttons, Buttonholes and Finishing
213(26)
The two-piece sleeves
215(2)
The envelope cuff
217(3)
Lining the sleeves
220(2)
Putting the sleeves into the jacket
222(1)
Adding shoulder pads
223(1)
Adding ice wool or wadding to the sleeve head
224(2)
The collar
226(3)
Putting melton and canvas together and pad stitching the under collar
229(1)
Attaching the under collar to the jacket
230(3)
The top collar
233(4)
Buttons, buttonholes and finishing
237(2)
Chapter 10 Nineteenth-Century Body Coats
239(34)
The frock coat, morning coat and dress coat blocks and diagrams
242(5)
Frock coat block continued
247(4)
Morning coat block continued
251(4)
Dress coat block continued
255(4)
Pattern layouts
259(3)
Inlays, allowances and lines to be mark stitched
262(6)
The making up of the coats and approaches to historical finishing
268(5)
Chapter 11 Original Garments: Patterns, Photographs and Measurements
273(178)
Original patterns and photographs
275(1)
Section I 1830-1850
276(16)
c1830s DB Dress coat. Ref: 1963/2185: Worthing Museum & Art Gallery
276(4)
c1835--1845 DB Dress coat. Ref: M1994--19: The Olive Mathews Collection Chertsey Museum
280(4)
1830--1850 Measurement research chart
284(7)
Additional garment notes
291(1)
Section 2 1850--1900
292(41)
c1870 DB 3pc dress coat suit Ref: 1962/1905: Worthing Museum & Art Gallery
292(7)
c1870 DB frock coat Ref: 1962/1908: Worthing Museum & Art Gallery
299(5)
c1890s SB morning coat Ref: 1970/18: Worthing Museum & Art Gallery
304(3)
Late nineteenth-century SB jacket and waistcoat. Ref: 1964/201: Museum in the Park, Stroud
307(6)
1850--1900 Measurement research chart
313(17)
Additional garment notes
330(3)
Section 3 1900--1950
333(118)
1907 SB 3pc Suit: University of Kentucky, Department of Theatre and Dance
333(7)
c1900--1910 SB 3pc morning coat suit Blandford Fashion Museum
340(6)
c1910--1920 SB suit Ref:W07436: National Trust, Killerton House
346(7)
c1920s DB 3pc suit Ref: 1974/303: Worthing Museum & Art Gallery
353(7)
1929 SB 3pc suit: Private Collection of Nelson Fields
360(7)
1939 DB 2pc suit: University of Kentucky, Department of Theatre and Dance
367(6)
c1940s SB 2pc suit: Private Collection
373(5)
c1946 DB 3pc suit Ref: 2006/54: Museum in the Park Stroud
378(7)
1900--1950 Measurement research chart
385(60)
Additional garment notes
445(6)
Notes to explain how the measurements were taken 451(6)
Abbreviations for the research notes and measurement charts 457
Graham Cottenden is a costumier, tailor, and historian who graduated from the Wimbledon School of Art in 1975 and later gained a masters degree from Middlesex University. He was a freelance costume maker in London for 20 years working in theatre, film, television and museums before becoming an educator. He has taught students and professionals in the UK and around the world, including Europe, USA, Scandinavia, Brazil, Australia and Hong Kong.
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