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E-raamat: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction (2nd Edition)

(Inst Of Oceanology Of The Polish Academy Of Sciences, Sopot, Poland)
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New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.
Preface to the Second Edition vii
Preface to the First Edition ix
1 Introduction
1(38)
1.1 Waves in the Ocean and their Significance
1(4)
1.2 Basic Assumptions on Seawater and Wave Motion
5(6)
1.2.1 Continuous fluid and water particle concept
5(1)
1.2.2 Properties of seawater and its motion
5(6)
1.3 Methods of Description of Random Waves
11(28)
1.3.1 A brief orientation
11(3)
1.3.2 Basic definitions and concepts of time series analysis
14(2)
1.3.3 Fundamentals of spectral description of ocean waves
16(1)
1.3.3.1 Deterministic description of wave train
16(3)
1.3.3.2 Stochastic description of wave train
19(9)
1.3.3.3 Wavelet representation of wave signal
28(7)
1.3.3.4 The Hilbert Transform representation of wave signals
35(4)
2 Interaction of Wind and Ocean Waves
39(38)
2.1 Introduction
39(2)
2.2 Airflow over Sea Surface
41(13)
2.2.1 Atmospheric boundary layer above water
41(3)
2.2.2 Similarity laws for drag coefficient CD
44(6)
2.2.3 Mathematical models of the air flow above waves
50(4)
2.3 Similarity Laws for Wind-induced Waves
54(4)
2.4 Wave Energy Balance in Spectral Form
58(5)
2.5 Generation of Waves by Wind
63(14)
2.5.1 Basic results of the Phillips-Miles model
63(6)
2.5.2 Resonance type model in water of finite depth
69(4)
2.5.3 Wind-current coupling in gravity-capillary wave generation model
73(4)
3 Spectral Properties of Ocean Waves
77(48)
3.1 Introduction
77(1)
3.2 Frequency Spectra of Ocean Waves
78(29)
3.2.1 Spectral moments and spectral width
78(5)
3.2.2 Saturation range of the spectrum
83(1)
3.2.2.1 Phillips' constant a and energy loss by wave breaking
84(2)
3.2.2.2 Zaslavskii and Zakharov' representation
86(2)
3.2.2.3 Toba's representation
88(1)
3.2.2.4 Finite water depth
89(2)
3.2.2.5 Influence of surface drift
91(1)
3.2.3 Typical frequency spectra
92(1)
3.2.3.1 The Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum
92(2)
3.2.3.2 The JONSWAP spectrum and its modifications
94(5)
3.2.3.3 The Wallops spectrum
99(1)
3.2.3.4 The Krylov spectrum
100(1)
3.2.3.5 The Davidan spectrum
101(1)
3.2.3.6 Multipeak spectra
101(3)
3.2.3.7 The TMA spectrum
104(1)
3.2.4 Higher order spectra
105(2)
3.3 Dispersion Relation for Ocean Waves
107(4)
3.4 Directional Spectral Functions
111(14)
3.4.1 Introduction
111(1)
3.4.2 The cosine-power models
112(4)
3.4.3 The von Mises formula
116(1)
3.4.4 The hyperbolic type model
116(2)
3.4.5 The double peak model
118(7)
4 Statistical Properties of Ocean Waves
125(102)
4.1 Introduction
125(1)
4.2 Surface Displacement
126(25)
4.2.1 Probability distribution of surface displacement
126(4)
4.2.2 Distribution of nonlinear surface displacement
130(4)
4.2.3 Extreme surface displacement
134(12)
4.2.4 Probability distribution of surface displacement in finite water depth
146(5)
4.3 Surface Slopes
151(11)
4.3.1 Governing relationships and definitions
153(2)
4.3.2 Influence of the directional spreading on surface waves slopes
155(7)
4.4 Wave Height
162(27)
4.4.1 Probability distribution of wave height for a narrow-band spectrum
162(7)
4.4.2 Influence of wave nonlinearity on wave height distribution
169(1)
4.4.2.1 Modification of the Rayleigh distribution
169(6)
4.4.2.2 Crest-to-trough wave height distribution
175(2)
4.4.3 Probability distribution of large wave heights
177(2)
4.4.4 Probability distribution of extreme wave heights
179(7)
4.4.5 Probability distribution of wave height in finite water depth
186(3)
4.5 Wave Period
189(10)
4.5.1 Joint distribution of wave heights and periods
189(6)
4.5.2 Probability distribution of wave period
195(4)
4.6 Wave Orbital Velocities and Pressure
199(15)
4.6.1 Spectral functions for orbital velocities and pressure
199(1)
4.6.2 Bottom velocity
200(6)
4.6.3 Velocity close to sea surface
206(4)
4.6.4 Influence of intermittency effect on probability distribution of orbital velocities near water level
210(4)
4.7 Wave Group Statistics
214(8)
4.7.1 Level-crossing problem
215(5)
4.7.2 Markov chain representation
220(2)
4.8 Surface Area of an Ocean Waves
222(5)
5 Properties of Breaking Waves
227(42)
5.1 Introduction
227(2)
5.2 Wave Breaking in Deep Water
229(19)
5.2.1 Experimental insights into mechanisms of wave breaking
229(5)
5.2.2 Whitecap coverage of the sea surface
234(5)
5.2.3 Wave breaking criteria and probability of breaking
239(3)
5.2.4 Energy dissipation due to wave breaking
242(5)
5.2.5 Relationship of aerosol fluxes and wave breaking
247(1)
5.3 Wave Breaking in Shallow Water
248(21)
5.3.1 Surf similarity parameter
248(1)
5.3.2 Periodic bore approach
249(2)
5.3.3 Wave energy dissipation on gentle beaches
251(1)
5.3.3.1 Battjes and Janssen solution (BJ78)
251(4)
5.3.3.2 Thornton and Guza modification (TG83)
255(2)
5.3.3.3 Transformation of probability distribution
257(5)
5.3.3.4 Energy flux difference model
262(1)
5.3.3.5 Surface roller concept
263(2)
5.3.4 Wave energy dissipation over steep beaches
265(4)
6 Prediction of Waves in Deep Water
269(54)
6.1 Introduction
269(1)
6.2 Basic Wave Processes in Deep Water
270(24)
6.2.1 Atmospheric forcing
271(1)
6.2.1.1 Governing equations
271(5)
6.2.1.2 Response of waves to an opposing wind
276(2)
6.2.2 Nonlinear interaction between wave components
278(1)
6.2.2.1 Evaluation of nonlinear energy transfer
278(8)
6.2.2.2 Parameterisation of nonlinear energy transfer
286(2)
6.2.3 Energy dissipation due to white capping
288(1)
6.2.4 Energy balance for fully-developed and growing seas
289(5)
6.3 Wave Prediction Models
294(29)
6.3.1 Wave models based on energy transfer equation
294(1)
6.3.1.1 First generation wave models
294(1)
6.3.1.2 Second generation wave models
295(5)
6.3.1.3 Third generation wave models
300(5)
6.3.2 Empirical prediction models
305(1)
6.3.2.1 Fetch- and time-limited wave growth
305(2)
6.3.2.2 JONS WAP prediction graphs
307(2)
6.3.2.3 SPM prediction graphs
309(1)
6.3.2.4 Donelan method
310(2)
6.3.2.5 Krylov method
312(7)
6.3.2.6 Comparison of empirical methods
319(4)
7 Prediction of Waves in Shallow Water
323(88)
7.1 Introduction
323(1)
7.2 Basic Wave Processes in Shallow Water
324(74)
7.2.1 Wave refraction due to bottom shoaling
324(10)
7.2.2 Refraction by currents in a shoaling water depth
334(1)
7.2.2.1 Propagation of random waves in an inhomogeneous region
334(4)
7.2.2.2 Influence of uniform current on a saturation range spectrum
338(2)
7.2.3 Combined refraction and diffraction
340(1)
7.2.3.1 A brief orientation
340(4)
7.2.3.2 Geometrical optics and mild-slope approximation
344(2)
7.2.3.3 Extended mild-slope equations
346(6)
7.2.3.4 Mild-slope equations for random waves
352(1)
7.2.3.5 Influence of energy dissipation
353(3)
7.2.3.6 Wave set-down and set-up
356(2)
7.2.4 Reflection of ocean waves
358(11)
7.2.5 Wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction
369(1)
7.2.5.1 A brief orientation
369(1)
7.2.5.2 Probability distribution of the bottom shear stress
370(5)
7.2.5.3 Eddy viscosity approach for bottom boundary layer
375(2)
7.2.6 Energy dissipation due to bottom permeability
377(3)
7.2.7 Nonlinear interaction between spectral wave components
380(1)
7.2.7.1 Narrow-band spectrum approximation
380(1)
7.2.7.2 Stokes' perturbation technique
381(5)
7.2.8 The largest wave height in water of constant depth
386(1)
7.2.8.1 Nonlinearity parameter Fc
386(4)
7.2.8.2 Application of higher approximations of Stokes' and cnoidal theories
390(1)
7.2.8.3 Limiting wave height for mechanically generated waves
391(4)
7.2.8.4 Maximum irregular wave height
395(3)
7.3 Wave Prediction Models
398(13)
7.3.1 Models based on energy transfer equation
398(1)
7.3.1.1 First- and second generation wave models
398(3)
7.3.1.2 Third generation wave models
401(1)
7.3.1.3 Wave prediction in very shallow water
402(2)
7.3.2 Empirical prediction models
404(1)
7.3.2.1 SPM prediction method
404(3)
7.3.2.2 Krylov prediction method
407(4)
8 Freak Waves
411(24)
8.1 Introduction
411(3)
8.2 Freak Wave Observations
414(11)
8.2.1 Field observations
414(3)
8.2.2 Laboratory experiments
417(8)
8.3 Probability of Occurrence of Freak Waves .420
8.4 Freak Wave Generation
425(10)
8.4.1 Linear models of freak waves generation
425(1)
8.4.1.1 Spatial focusing of water waves
425(2)
8.4.1.2 Wave-current interaction
427(1)
8.4.2 Nonlinear models of freak wave generation
428(7)
9 Tsunami
435(20)
9.1 Introduction
435(2)
9.2 Tsunami Generation Due to Earthquake
437(9)
9.2.1 Tsunami generation phase
437(1)
9.2.2 Numerical modelling of tsunami in deep ocean
438(2)
9.2.3 Tsunami in coastal zone and tsunami run-up
440(1)
9.2.3.1 Governing equations
440(3)
9.2.3.2 Tsunami impulse propagation over sloping bottom
443(3)
9.3 Tsunami Due to Landslides
446(3)
9.3.1 Introduction
446(1)
9.3.1.1 Experimental and theoretical studies
447(2)
9.4 Tsunami Due to Meteorites Impact
449(6)
9.4.1 General considerations
449(2)
9.4.2 Tsunami propagation on constant water depth
451(4)
10 Waves at Islands and Coral Reefs
455(24)
10.1 Introduction
455(1)
10.2 Maximum Wave Height on Shoal Flat
456(2)
10.3 Sheltering of Surface Waves by Islands
458(6)
10.3.1 A brief orientation
458(1)
10.3.2 Scattering of waves by an isolated steep conical island
459(1)
10.3.2.1 Pure refraction solution
460(2)
10.3.2.2 Refraction-diffraction solution with dissipation
462(2)
10.4 Scattering of Waves by a Group of Islands
464(1)
10.5 Prediction of Waves on Island Archipelagoes
465(2)
10.6 Interaction of Waves with Coral Reef Bottoms
467(12)
10.6.1 Forces on coral
468(6)
10.6.2 Velocity field around coral
474(1)
10.6.3 Probability of coral dislodgement or persistence
475(4)
11 Waves in Mangrove Forests
479(12)
11.1 Introduction
479(2)
11.2 Waves in Mangrove Forest of Constant Water Depth
481(6)
11.3 Waves in Mangrove Forest of Changing Water Depth
487(4)
11.3.1 Field observations
490(1)
12 Wave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous Bottom
491(24)
12.1 Introduction
491(3)
12.2 Wave-induced Pore Pressure in Sea Bottom
494(7)
12.2.1 Governing equations
494(3)
12.2.2 Boundary conditions
497(1)
12.2.3 Harmonic solution
498(1)
12.2.4 Soil completely saturated with water
498(1)
12.2.5 Soil saturated with a mixture of liquid and gas
499(1)
12.2.6 Velocities of groundwater circulation
500(1)
12.3 Pore Pressure in Sea Bottom due to Wave Set-up
501(3)
12.4 Experimental Data on Pore Pressure
504(2)
12.5 Spectral Properties of Wave-induced Pore Pressure
506(3)
12.6 Ciculation in Permeable Rippled Bed
509(6)
12.6.1 General remarks
509(1)
12.6.2 Circulation below the singular bottom form
510(5)
13 Wave Observations and Long-Term Statistics
515(26)
13.1 Introduction
515(1)
13.2 Wave Observations
515(8)
13.2.1 Visual wave observations
515(5)
13.2.2 Instrumental wave observations
520(3)
13.3 Wave Geography
523(5)
13.3.1 A brief orientation
523(1)
13.3.2 Atlantic Ocean
523(2)
13.3.3 Pacific Ocean
525(1)
13.3.4 Indian Ocean
526(1)
13.3.5 Wave climate in some local seas
527(1)
13.4 Long-term Statistics of Sea Severity
528(13)
13.4.1 Long-term distributions of wave heights
528(5)
13.4.2 Probability distributions of extreme waves
533(7)
13.4.3 Goodness of fit tests and confidence intervals
540(1)
14 Wave Measurement Techniques
541(12)
14.1 Introduction
541(1)
14.2 A Single Point Wave Data
541(7)
14.2.1 Laboratory measurements
541(1)
14.2.1.1 Resistance wave gauges
542(1)
14.2.1.2 Capacitance wave gauges
542(1)
14.2.1.3 Pressure transducers
542(2)
14.2.2 Field measurements
544(1)
14.2.2.1 Wave staffs
544(1)
14.2.2.2 Wave buoys
545(1)
14.2.3 Measurement of wave directionality
546(2)
14.3 Remote Sensing Techniques
548(5)
14.3.1 A brief orientation
548(1)
14.3.2 Application of satellite altimetry
549(1)
14.3.3 Application of satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar
550(3)
15 Data Processing and Simulation Techniques
553(28)
15.1 Introduction
553(1)
15.2 Data Processing Methods
553(22)
15.2.1 Spectral characteristics of surface waves
553(1)
15.2.1.1 Data sampling
554(1)
15.2.1.2 Standardisation of data, trend removal and filtering
555(2)
15.2.1.3 Determination of frequency spectra
557(3)
15.2.2 Directional wave spectra
560(1)
15.2.2.1 Fourier Expansion Method
560(4)
15.2.2.2 Maximum Entropy Method
564(5)
15.2.2.3 Maximum Likelihood Method
569(3)
15.2.2.4 Comparison of various analytical techniques
572(1)
15.2.3 Statistical characteristics of waves
573(1)
15.2.3.1 Introduction
573(1)
15.2.3.2 Confidence intervals
574(1)
15.3 Numerical Simulation Techniques
575(6)
15.3.1 Introduction
575(1)
15.3.2 Simulation of random sea with random phase only
576(1)
15.3.3 Simulation of random sea with random amplitudes
577(4)
Bibliography 581(52)
Symbols and Notation 633(8)
Author Index 641(14)
Subject Index 655(8)
Colour Plates 663
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