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E-raamat: Patternmaking for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary

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(University of Cincinnati, USA), (University of Cincinnati, USA)
  • Formaat: 440 pages
  • Ilmumisaeg: 16-Apr-2014
  • Kirjastus: Fairchild Books
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781609019716
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Patternmaking for Menswear: Classic to ContemporarySuurem pilt
  • Formaat: 440 pages
  • Ilmumisaeg: 16-Apr-2014
  • Kirjastus: Fairchild Books
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781609019716
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This comprehensive men's patternmaking text covers many different garment types and design elements, including patternmaking techniques for both woven and knit fabrics. The step-by-step format with accompanying detailed illustrations is appropriate for beginning to advanced students, as well as the industry professionals looking to sharpen their patternmaking skill. Photographs provide examples of completed garments on the dress form and clear illustrations are highlighted with color to show precisely what to do at each step of the patternmaking process.

Noting the subtle difference between patternmaking for men versus women, the authors provide readers with a complete understanding of the male anatomy, how to take measurements and fitting techniques.Patternmaking for Menswear has a unique modular organization, moving from basic sloper development to detailing slim-fit versus classic-fit garments with design details grouped together to allow readers to combine them to create unlimited design variations. The text includes a section on fit problems and solutions that can be referenced after making a muslin for better fit. Instructions on how to add proper seam allowances to woven and knit patterns are also included.With many fashion-forward and on-trend patterns, this book is an indispensible resource for creating modern and professional menswear designs.

Muu info

Patternmaking for Contemporary Menswear is the most current, comprehensive and user-friendly book for men's patternmaking--an essential resource for students, educators, and industry professionals.
Preface x
SECTION I PRINCIPLES
1(213)
Chapter 1 Introduction to Patternmaking
1(16)
Men's Body Types
2(1)
Patternmaking Tools and Symbols
3(3)
Patternmaking Tools
3(1)
Patternmaking Symbols
4(2)
Body Measurements for Men
6(11)
Preparing for Measurements
6(1)
Clothes and Posture of Subjects
6(1)
Standard Points for Measurement
7(1)
Taking Measurements
8(6)
Reference Size Charts for Men
14(3)
Chapter 2 Basic Slopers for Wovens: Slim-Fit versus Classic-Fit Style
17(46)
Flat Pattern and Sloper
18(3)
Flat Patterns
18(1)
Slopers
18(1)
Definition of Slim-Fit Style and Classic-Fit Style
19(2)
Torso Sloper
21(17)
Terms for Torso Sloper
21(1)
Slim-Fit Torso Sloper
22(1)
Drafting the Torso Sloper
23(3)
Sleeve Sloper
26(1)
Terms for Sleeves
26(1)
Relationship between Bicep Width and Cap Height
26(1)
Preparing the Sleeve Draft
27(1)
Drafting the Sleeve Sloper
28(2)
Sleeve Cap Ease
30(1)
Adjusting Sleeve Cap Ease
30(1)
Notches
31(2)
Close-Fit (with Darts)
33(1)
Classic-Fit Torso Sloper
34(1)
Enlarging Slim-Fit Pattern Methods
34(2)
Making New Classic-Fit Slopers
36(2)
Pants Sloper
38(7)
Terms for Pants Sloper
38(2)
Drafting the Pants Sloper
40(5)
Fitting Adjustments
45(12)
Shoulder Tip Is Too Narrow or Wide
46(1)
Shoulder Tip Is Too Low or High
47(1)
Underarm at Chest Line Is Too Tight or Loose
48(1)
Armhole Is Too High or Low
49(1)
Chest Circumference Is Too Loose or Tight
50(2)
Sleeve Cap Is Too Low or High
52(1)
Waist Circumference Is Too Loose or Tight
53(1)
Crotch Length Is Too Long or Short
54(1)
Crotch Curve Width Is Too Loose or Tight
55(1)
Hip at Center Back Is Too Loose or Tight
56(1)
Seam Allowances
57(6)
Seam Allowances for Woven Shirts
59(1)
Seam Allowances for Woven Pants
60(1)
Seam Allowances for Woven Jackets
61(1)
Seam Allowances for Jersey Knit Tops
62(1)
Chapter 3 Necklines
63(14)
Round Neckline
64(1)
Square Neckline
65(1)
V-Neckline
66(1)
Boat Neckline
67(1)
Cowl Neckline without Tuck
68(2)
High Neckline
70(1)
Inset Band Neckline
71(6)
1) Inset Band Neckline for Woven Fabric (Round Neck)
71(1)
2) Inset Band Neckline for Knit Fabrics (Round Neck)
72(2)
3) Inset Band Neckline for Knit Fabrics (V-Neck)
74(3)
Chapter 4 Collars
77(40)
Basic Factors of Collar Structure
78(1)
Flat Collar Group
79(5)
1) Flat Collar and Peter Pan Collar
80(2)
2) Sailor Collar
82(2)
Shirt (Rolled) Collar Group
84(10)
1) One-Piece Shirt Collar with Inclusive Band
84(2)
2) Two-Piece Shirt Collar, Separate Band
86(2)
3) Sport Collar
88(2)
4) Convertible Collar
90(3)
5) Rib-Knit Collar
93(1)
Standing Collar Group
94(4)
1) Mandarin Collar (Standing Collar without Extension)
94(1)
2) Standing Collar with Extension
95(1)
3) Wing Collar
96(2)
Lapel Collar Group
98(14)
Lapel Collar Group Foundation
98(4)
1) Shawl Collar
102(2)
2) Notched Collar
104(4)
3) Peaked Collar
108(4)
Hood Collar Group
112(5)
1) Two-Piece Hood
112(3)
2) Three-Piece Hood
115(2)
Chapter 5 Sleeves and Cuffs
117(32)
Sleeves
118(1)
Men's Dress-Shirt Sleeves
118(1)
No-Pleat Sleeve with Placket
118(2)
One-Pleat Sleeve with Placket
120(2)
Two-Pleat Sleeve with Placket
122(2)
Bishop Sleeve
124(3)
First Example
125(1)
Second Example
126(1)
Two-Piece Sleeve for Formal Wear
127(3)
Two-Piece Sleeve for Casual Wear
130(2)
Raglan Sleeve
132(8)
1) Raglan Sleeve with a Dart
134(3)
2) Raglan Sleeve without Dart
137(3)
Dolman Sleeve
140(3)
Short Sleeve
143(1)
Cuffs
144(5)
1) Shirt Cuff
144(1)
2) Adjustable Shirt Cuff
145(1)
3) Wing (Long-Point) Cuff
146(1)
4) French Cuff
147(1)
5) Band Cuff
147(1)
6) Turned-Back Cuff
148(1)
Chapter 6 Plackets and Pockets
149(25)
Plackets
150(9)
1) Pointed Placket
150(2)
2) Classic Tailored Placket
152(1)
Type A: Folded Edge
152(1)
Type B-1: Cut Placket, Seamed Edge
153(1)
Type B-2: Cut Placket, Pin Tuck on the Right Side
154(1)
3) Attached (Continuous) Placket
155(1)
4) Vent Placket
156(1)
5) Bottom Placket
157(2)
Pockets
159(15)
1) Front Hip Pockets
159(1)
Slanted Front Pocket
160(1)
Jean Front Pocket
161(1)
2) Inseam Pockets
162(1)
Inseam Pocket for Pants
163(1)
Inseam Pocket for Upper Bodice
164(1)
3) Welt Pocket
165(1)
Single-Welt Pocket for Upper Bodice
165(1)
Double-Welt Pocket for Pants
166(2)
4) Patch Pockets
168(1)
Kangaroo Pocket
168(1)
Rectangular Pocket with Pleats and Flap
169(1)
Five-Point Pocket for Pants
170(1)
5) Cargo (Box) Pockets
171(3)
Chapter 7 Details
174(40)
Buttons and Extensions
176(2)
Facings
178(3)
1) Stitched-On Facings
178(2)
2) Fold-Back Facing
180(1)
Pleats
181(4)
1) Box Pleats and Inverted Box Pleats
181(2)
2) Side Back Pleats
183(2)
Tucks
185(5)
1) Pleated Tucks
185(3)
2) Pin Tucks
188(2)
Style Lines
190(13)
1) Darts
190(1)
2) Yokes
191(1)
Front and Back Yokes
191(2)
Pants Yokes
193(2)
3) Side Panels: Five Panels
195(1)
Shirts, T-shirts, and Casual Jackets
195(2)
4) Princess Lines
197(1)
Princess Line on the Armhole Line
197(2)
Princess Line on the Shoulder Line
199(2)
5) Flange
201(2)
Waistband
203(11)
1) Classic Waistband
203(2)
2) Waistband for Lower Waist Line
205(2)
3) Curved Waistband
207(2)
4) Waistband for Hip Hugger Waist Line
209(1)
5) Rib Knit Waistband with Elastic
210(1)
6) Drawstring with Self-Casing
211(1)
7) Separate Casing with Drawstring
212(2)
8) Front Fly Closures for Mens Pants
214(1)
SECTION II DESIGN VARIATIONS FOR WOVEN FABRICS
214(179)
Chapter 8 Shirts
215(41)
Fitted Shirt
216(5)
Convertible Collar Shirt
221(4)
Western-Style Shirt
225(6)
Military-Inspired Shirt
231(5)
Princess-Line Shirt
236(5)
Short-Sleeve Oxford Shirt
241(4)
Short-Sleeve Tuxedo-Style Shirt
245(4)
Dolman Sleeve Shirt
249(6)
Shirt Design Variations
255(1)
Chapter 9 Pants
256(33)
Flat-Front Pants
257(32)
Single-Pleat Pants
262(6)
Straight-leg Jean
268(5)
Double-Pleat Pants
273(4)
Cropped Skinny Pants
277(5)
Dropped-Crotch Pants
282(6)
Pants Design Variations
288(1)
Chapter 10 Casual Jackets
289(27)
Casual Jacket Foundation
290(4)
Slim-Fit Jacket Foundation
290(2)
Classic-Fit Jacket Foundation
292(1)
Developing from the Classic-Fit Torso Sloper
292(1)
Enlarging the Slim-Fit Casual Jacket Foundation
293(1)
Stadium (Varsity) Jacket
294(5)
Safari Jacket
299(4)
Windbreaker
303(6)
Moto Jacket
309(6)
Jacket Design Variations
315(1)
Chapter 11 Suit Jackets
316(35)
Four-Panel Suit Jacket Foundation
317(5)
Slim-Fit Four-Panel Suit Jacket Foundation
317(1)
Suit Jacket Sleeve
318(2)
Classic-Fit Four-Panel Suit Jacket Foundation
320(1)
Developing from Classic-Fit Torso Sloper
320(1)
Enlarging the Slim-Fit Four-Panel Suit Jacket Foundation
321(1)
Six-Panel Suit Jacket Foundation
322(4)
Slim-Fit Six-Panel Suit Jacket Foundation
322(3)
Classic-Fit Six-Panel Suit Jacket Foundation
325(1)
Suit Jacket Lining
326(2)
Single-Breasted Notched-Collar Jacket
328(5)
Double-Breasted Tuxedo Jacket
333(5)
Notched-Collar Jacket with Yoke
338(4)
Two-Button Suit Jacket
342(4)
Mandarin Jacket
346(4)
Jacket Design Variations
350(1)
Chapter 12 Coats
351(27)
Coat Foundation
352(4)
Slim-Fit Coat Foundation
352(2)
Classic-Fit Coat Foundation
354(1)
Developing from the Classic-Fit Sloper
354(1)
Enlarging the Slim-Fit Coat Foundation
355(1)
Chesterfield Coat
356(8)
Safari Coat
364(5)
Mandarin Coat
369(4)
Military Coat
373(4)
Coat Design Variations
377(1)
Chapter 13 Vests
378(15)
V-Neck Vest
379(5)
Faux Shawl Collar Vest
384(4)
Cameraman Vest
388(4)
Vest Design Variations
392(1)
SECTION III DESIGN VARIATIONS FOR KNIT FABRICS
393(60)
Chapter 14 Jersey Knit Torso Sloper and Tops
393(39)
I Characteristics of Knit Fabric Patterns
Knit Fabric Patterns
394(1)
Pattern Differences between Woven and Knit Slopers
395(1)
II Slim-Fit Sloper vs. Classic-Fit Sloper
Slim-Fit Sloper vs. Classic-Fit Sloper for Knit Fabrics
396(1)
Slim-Fit Torso Sloper
397(1)
Torso Sloper
397(4)
Sleeve Sloper
401(3)
Classic-Fit Torso Sloper
404(1)
Enlarging the Slim-Fit Torso Sloper
404(1)
Making New Classic-Fit Slopers
405(3)
III Design Variations
Long-Sleeve T-Shirt
408(4)
Golf Shirt
412(4)
V-Neck T-Shirt
416(4)
Raglan Sleeve T-Shirt
420(3)
Polo Shirt
423(4)
Hooded Sweatshirt
427(4)
Jersey Knit T-Shirt Variations
431(1)
Chapter 15 Knit Pants
432(21)
Sweat Pants
433(6)
Classic Track Pants
439(4)
Lounge Pants
443(5)
Lounge Shorts
448(4)
Jersey Knit Pants Design Variations
452(1)
APPENDICES
A Reference Size Charts for Men
453(3)
B Basic Metric Conversion
456(1)
C Quarter-Scale Slopers
457(5)
D Glossary of Terms
462(5)
Bibliography 467(1)
Index 468
Injoo Kim is an Associate Professor in the Fashion Design program at the University of Cincinnati. She holds a Masters in Design from the same university. Prior to academia, she worked in the fashion industry for ten years. Professor Kim's research and scholarly work has resulted in multiple publications; she has authored articles on the subjects of apparel design, flat pattern, and machine knitting and three books including Apparel Making in Fashion Design (Fairchild Books, 2002).

Myoung Kim is a lecturer in the Department of Clothing and Textiles at Hanyang University, as well as a visiting scholar at the University of Cincinnati. She holds a PhD in Clothing and Textiles from Hanyang University. Prior to academia, she worked as pattern maker and technical designer in the fashion industry for fourteen years. Dr. Kim's research and scholarly work focuses on the proper fit for menswear and menswear pattern making.
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