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E-raamat: Principles of Woven Fabric Manufacturing

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  • Formaat: 454 pages
  • Ilmumisaeg: 25-Nov-2016
  • Kirjastus: CRC Press Inc
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781498759151
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Principles of Woven Fabric ManufacturingSuurem pilt
  • Formaat: 454 pages
  • Ilmumisaeg: 25-Nov-2016
  • Kirjastus: CRC Press Inc
  • Keel: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781498759151
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Weaving as a subject is an integral part of any textile engineering/technology program, the others being fibre manufacturing, yarn manufacturing and textile chemical processing. This book amalgamates both the compartments (preparatory processes and the loom mechanism) of weaving technology and presents a holistic picture. The machine descriptions are presented from the viewpoint of principles and no attempt has been made to make them exhaustive by incorporating various models or variants. The mathematical relations among various parameters have been derived starting from the first principles and each chapter concludes with solved numerical examples.

Arvustused

"The main strengths of the textbook are a clear, logical, modern and understandable explanation of the subject matter in the field of weaving technology. Graphics, photos and practical examples effectively supporting the consolidation and understanding of the content presented. A perfect textbook for students and weaving experts." Polona Dobnik Dubrovski, The University of Maribor, Slovenia

"This book is relevant and useful both to undergraduates and undergraduates who are pursuing a career in apparel and textiles." John Mcloughlin, Manchester Metropolitan University, United Kingdom

"The book titled Principles of Woven Fabric Manufacturing is one of the comprehensive concept books on two dimensional (2D) weaving and weaving related subjects. My overall view on the book is that each sub content is explained very simple way for the reader to understand. In addition, it includes recent innovations especially data management, up to date process automation and basic calculation principles. I recommend the book students, engineers, researchers and teachers in various colleges and Universities as well as private companies and state and private research organizations." Kadir Bilisik, Erciyes University, Turkey

"Most importantly contents, structure, organization, quality, and readability are considered as a whole to be the main strengths. The fundamental concepts and basics of fabric manufacturing are very well written with scientific and engineering approaches right from preparatory process to final weaving. This book would definitely serve the purpose of undergraduate students those who wants to learn the weaving technology in more scientific way. In addition, the author has provided numerical problems with solutions at the end of each chapter and this would help students to hone their analytical thinking and working ability by performing the exercises. Most of the equations/formulae presented in this book are well derived right from first principles and this would help students to comprehend the basic assumptions and other implications which are being involved. Mechanisms of all primary, secondary, and tertiary motions of both shuttle and shuttle-less looms and preparatory processes are discussed very well in detail and which are prerequisites for beginners." Jin-lian Hu, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong





"The book provides technical treatise on weaving including preparatory weaving processes and elementary fabric design. The content of the book is written in simple and easy to understand language. Numerical exercises are included; which will benefit students and early career practitioners." Rajesh Anandjiwala, CSIR Materials Science & Manufacturing, Port Elizabeth, South Africa "The main strengths of the textbook are a clear, logical, modern and understandable explanation of the subject matter in the field of weaving technology. Graphics, photos and practical examples effectively supporting the consolidation and understanding of the content presented. A perfect textbook for students and weaving experts." Polona Dobnik Dubrovski, The University of Maribor, Slovenia

"This book is relevant and useful both to undergraduates and undergraduates who are pursuing a career in apparel and textiles." John Mcloughlin, Manchester Metropolitan University, United Kingdom

"The book titled Principles of Woven Fabric Manufacturing is one of the comprehensive concept books on two dimensional (2D) weaving and weaving related subjects. My overall view on the book is that each sub content is explained very simple way for the reader to understand. In addition, it includes recent innovations especially data management, up to date process automation and basic calculation principles. I recommend the book students, engineers, researchers and teachers in various colleges and Universities as well as private companies and state and private research organizations." Kadir Bilisik, Erciyes University, Turkey

"The book provides technical treatise on weaving including preparatory weaving processes and elementary fabric design. The content of the book is written in simple and easy to understand language. Numerical exercises are included; which will benefit students and early career practitioners." Rajesh Anandjiwala, CSIR Materials Science & Manufacturing, Port Elizabeth, South Africa

"Apart from engineering students, there is much background information to be gleaned by students of textile design who intend to work in an indistrial setting. Not perhaps a book for hand weavers to read from cover to cover, but if you have lots of unanswered questions after visiting a working mill, dipping into this book may well provide the solution." Norah Bell, Online Guild

Preface xvii
Acknowledgements xix
Author xxi
Chapter 1 Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing 1
1.1 Fabric Manufacturing Technologies
1(1)
1.2 Weaving Technology
2(15)
1.2.1 Types of Looms
3(2)
1.2.2 Primary Motions
5(1)
1.2.2.1 Shedding
5(1)
1.2.2.2 Picking
6(2)
1.2.2.3 Beat-Up
8(1)
1.2.3 Secondary Motions
8(1)
1.2.4 Auxiliary Motions
9(1)
1.2.5 Some Basic Definitions
9(1)
1.2.5.1 Yarn Count
9(1)
1.2.5.2 Packing Factor or Packing Coefficient
10(2)
1.2.5.3 Warp and Weft
12(1)
1.2.5.4 Crimp
12(1)
1.2.5.5 Fractional Cover and Cover Factor
12(1)
1.2.5.6 Porosity
13(2)
1.2.5.7 Areal Density
15(2)
1.3 Knitting Technology
17(8)
1.3.1 Weft Knitting
18(1)
1.3.2 Warp Knitting
19(1)
1.3.3 Needle
19(1)
1.3.4 Loop Formation in Knitting
20(1)
1.3.5 Course and Wale
21(1)
1.3.6 Single Jersey and Double Jersey Fabrics
22(1)
1.3.7 Tightness Factor
23(2)
1.4 Nonwoven Technology
25(4)
1.4.1 Needle Punching Technology
25(1)
1.4.2 Hydro-Entanglement Technology
26(1)
1.4.3 Spunbond Technology
27(1)
1.4.4 Meltblown Technology
28(1)
1.5 Braiding Technology
29(8)
Numerical Problems
31(5)
References
36(1)
Chapter 2 Winding
37(72)
2.1 Introduction
37(1)
2.2 Objectives
37(1)
2.3 Types of Yarn Withdrawal
38(2)
2.4 Types of Wound Packages
40(1)
2.5 Important Definitions of Winding
41(3)
2.5.1 Wind
41(1)
2.5.2 Traverse Ratio or Wind Ratio or Wind per Double Traverse
41(1)
2.5.3 Angle of Wind and Coil Angle
41(1)
2.5.3.1 Measuring the Angle of Wind
42(1)
2.5.4 Winding Speed
43(1)
2.5.5 Cone Taper Angle
43(1)
2.5.6 Scroll
43(1)
2.6 Winding Machines
44(1)
2.7 Classification of Winding Principles
45(14)
2.7.1 Drum-Driven Winders
47(2)
2.7.1.1 Cone Winding
49(2)
2.7.1.2 Patterning
51(1)
2.7.1.3 Path of Yarn on Cheese
51(2)
2.7.1.4 Steps to Draw the Path of Yarn on Cheese
53(1)
2.7.2 Spindle-Driven Winders
54(4)
2.7.3 Step Precision Winder or Digicone Winder
58(1)
2.8 Gain
59(2)
2.9 Pirn Winding
61(2)
2.10 Conditions For Uniform Package Building
63(8)
2.10.1 Cheese Winding
63(2)
2.10.2 Conditions for Uniform Cone Winding
65(2)
2.10.2.1 Example of Uniform Cone Winding
67(3)
2.10.3 Grooves on Winding Drums
70(1)
2.11 Yarn Tensioning
71(6)
2.11.1 Types of Tensioning Devices
71(2)
2.11.2 Relation between Input and Output Tensions in Multiplicative Tensioner
73(1)
2.11.3 Tension Variation during Unwinding from Cop Build Packages
74(3)
2.12 Yarn Clearing
77(10)
2.12.1 Objectives of Yarn Clearing
77(1)
2.12.2 Principles of Measurement
78(2)
2.12.3 Yarn Imperfections and Yarn Faults
80(2)
2.12.3.1 Causes of Classimat Faults
82(2)
2.12.3.2 Settings of Yarn Clearing Channels
84(1)
2.12.4 Removal of Foreign and Coloured Fibres
85(2)
2.13 Splicing
87(1)
2.14 Some Important Issues of Winding
88(21)
2.14.1 Yarn Winding for Package Dyeing
88(3)
2.14.2 Yarn Waxing
91(1)
2.14.3 Defects in Wound Packages
91(1)
2.14.4 Winding and Yarn Hairiness
92(1)
Numerical Problems
93(14)
References
107(2)
Chapter 3 Warping
109(18)
3.1 Objectives
109(1)
3.2 Beam Warping and Sectional Warping
109(2)
3.3 Components of Warping Machine
111(4)
3.3.1 Types of Creel
112(1)
3.3.1.1 Single End Creel
112(1)
3.3.1.2 Magazine Creel
112(1)
3.3.1.3 Travelling or Swivelling Creel
113(1)
3.3.2 Calculation for Warping Efficiency with Different Creels
113(2)
3.4 Sectional Warping
115(3)
3.5 Stages of Warping
118(3)
3.5.1 Creel
118(1)
3.5.2 Leasing
118(1)
3.5.3 Expandable Reed
119(1)
3.5.4 Beaming
119(2)
3.6 Developments in Warping
121(6)
3.6.1 Sample Warping Machine
121(1)
3.6.2 Smart Beam
122(1)
Numerical Problems
123(3)
References
126(1)
Chapter 4 Warp Sizing
127(46)
4.1 Objectives
127(1)
4.2 Characteristics of Sized Yarn
127(1)
4.3 Important Definitions of Sizing
128(1)
4.4 Sizing-Weaving Curve
129(1)
4.5 Size Encapsulation and Size Penetration
129(1)
4.6 Sizing Materials
130(11)
4.6.1 Desirable Properties of Sizing Materials
132(1)
4.6.2 Composition of Sizing Material
132(1)
4.6.3 Starch
133(1)
4.6.3.1 Chemical Structure of Starch
133(2)
4.6.3.2 Cooking of Starch
135(1)
4.6.3.3 Acid Treatment of Starch
136(1)
4.6.4 Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA)
137(1)
4.6.4.1 Degree of Hydrolysis
137(3)
4.6.4.2 Degree of Polymerisation and Viscosity
140(1)
4.6.5 Typical Recipe of Sizing
140(1)
4.6.5.1 Carded Cotton Yarn
140(1)
4.6.5.2 Combed Cotton Yarn
140(1)
4.6.5.3 Polyester-Cotton Blended Yarn
140(1)
4.6.6 Steps for Preparing the Size Paste
141(1)
4.7 Sizing Machine
141(20)
4.7.1 Creel Zone
142(3)
4.7.2 Size Box Zone
145(2)
4.7.2.1 Viscosity of Size Paste
147(1)
4.7.2.2 Squeezing Pressure
148(2)
4.7.2.3 Hardness of Top Squeeze Roll
150(1)
4.7.2.4 Thickness of Synthetic Rubber on the Top Roller
150(1)
4.7.2.5 Position of Immersion Roller
150(1)
4.7.2.6 Speed of Sizing
150(1)
4.7.2.7 Percent Occupation and Equivalent Yarn Diameter
151(1)
4.7.2.8 Sizing Diagram
152(2)
4.7.2.9 Crowning of Top Roller
154(1)
4.7.3 Drying Zone
155(2)
4.7.3.1 Methods of Drying
157(2)
4.7.3.2 Splitting
159(2)
4.7.4 Headstock Zone
161(1)
4.8 Pre-Wetting of Yarns
161(1)
4.9 Quality Evaluation of Sized Yarns
162(11)
Numerical Problems
164(7)
References
171(2)
Chapter 5 Weave Design
173(22)
5.1 Introduction to Weave Design
173(1)
5.1.1 Drafting
173(1)
5.1.2 Lifting Plan
174(1)
5.2 Types of Draft
174(2)
5.2.1 Straight Draft
174(1)
5.2.2 Pointed Draft
174(1)
5.2.3 Skip Draft
175(1)
5.3 Basic Weaves
176(12)
5.3.1 Plain Weave
176(1)
5.3.1.1 Warp Rib
177(1)
5.3.1.2 Weft Rib
178(1)
5.3.1.3 Matt or Basket Weave
179(2)
5.3.2 Twill Weave
181(1)
5.3.2.1 Pointed Twill
182(1)
5.3.2.2 Angle of Twill
183(2)
5.3.3 Satin and Sateen Weaves
185(1)
5.3.3.1 Six-End Regular Sateen
186(1)
5.3.3.2 Rules for Making Satin or Sateen Weaves
187(1)
5.4 Some Fancy Weaves
188(4)
5.4.1 Honeycomb
188(1)
5.4.2 Mock Leno
188(1)
5.4.3 Huck-a-Back
188(4)
5.5 Computer-Aided Design
192(1)
5.6 Weave and Fabric Properties
192(3)
References
193(2)
Chapter 6 Shedding
195(64)
6.1 Primary and Secondary Motions
195(1)
6.2 Transmission of Motions in Shuttle Loom
196(2)
6.3 Cam Shedding
198(35)
6.3.1 Negative and Positive Cams
199(1)
6.3.2 Distinct (Clear) and Indistinct (Unclear) Shed
200(1)
6.3.3 Lift or Throw of Cam
201(2)
6.3.4 Diameter of Reversing Rollers
203(1)
6.3.5 Geometry of Shed
204(1)
6.3.6 Calculation of Warp Strain during Shedding
205(2)
6.3.7 Timing of Shedding
207(1)
6.3.7.1 Early Shedding
208(1)
6.3.7.2 Late Shedding
209(1)
6.3.7.3 Effects of Shed Timing and Backrest Position
210(2)
6.3.8 Bending Factor
212(3)
6.3.9 Heald Staggering
215(1)
6.3.10 Heald Reversing Mechanism
216(2)
6.3.11 Positive Cam Shedding
218(1)
6.3.11.1 Grooved Positive Cam
218(1)
6.3.11.2 Matched Positive Cam
219(1)
6.3.12 Design of Shedding Cams
220(1)
6.3.12.1 Design of Linear Cam
221(6)
6.3.12.2 Design of Simple Harmonic Motion (SHM) Cam
227(5)
6.3.12.3 Advantages of SHM Cam over Linear Cam
232(1)
6.4 Dobby Shedding
233(8)
6.4.1 Limitation of Cam Shedding
233(1)
6.4.2 Keighley Dobby
234(2)
6.4.2.1 System of Pegging
236(2)
6.4.3 Cam Dobby
238(1)
6.4.4 Positive Dobby
239(1)
6.4.5 Modern Rotary Dobby
240(1)
6.5 Jacquard Shedding
241(11)
6.5.1 Single-Lift Single-Cylinder (SLSC) Jacquard
241(2)
6.5.2 Double-Lift Single-Cylinder (DLSC) Jacquard
243(2)
6.5.3 Double-Lift Double-Cylinder (DLDC) Jacquard
245(1)
6.5.4 Jacquard Harness
246(2)
6.5.5 Problems in Jacquard Harness in Wide Looms
248(1)
6.5.6 Pattern of Harness Tying
249(1)
6.5.7 Electronic Jacquard
250(2)
6.6 Types of Heald Movement
252(2)
6.6.1 Bottom Closed Shed
252(1)
6.6.2 Semi-Open Shed
252(1)
6.6.3 Centre Closed Shed
253(1)
6.6.4 Open Shed
254(1)
6.7 Dual-Directional Shedding
254(5)
Numerical Problems
256(2)
References
258(1)
Chapter 7 Picking in Shuttle Loom
259(34)
7.1 Objectives
259(1)
7.2 Loom Timing
259(2)
7.3 Classification of Shuttle Picking Mechanism
261(8)
7.3.1 Cone Over-Pick Mechanism
261(1)
7.3.1.1 Adjustments for Strength and Timing of Over-Pick Mechanism
262(2)
7.3.2 Cone Under-Pick Mechanism
264(1)
7.3.2.1 Adjustments for Strength and Timing of Under-Pick Mechanism
265(1)
7.3.2.2 Parallel Pick
266(1)
7.3.2.3 Link Pick
266(2)
7.3.2.4 Side Lever Under-Pick Mechanism
268(1)
7.4 Catapult Effect
269(1)
7.5 Shuttle Velocity, Loom Speed and Picking Power
269(4)
7.5.1 Relation between Shuttle Velocity and Loom Speed
269(3)
7.5.2 Power Required for Picking
272(1)
7.6 Nominal and Actual Displacement of Shuttle
273(4)
7.6.1 Nominal Movement in Straight Line
275(2)
7.7 Shuttle Checking
277(16)
7.7.1 Mechanism of Shuttle Checking
277(1)
7.7.2 A Simplified Theoretical Model of Shuttle Checking
278(3)
7.7.3 Checking by the Action of Picker
281(3)
Numerical Problems
284(7)
References
291(2)
Chapter 8 Picking in Shuttleless Looms
293(66)
8.1 Limitations of Shuttle Loom
293(2)
8.2 Projectile Picking System
295(17)
8.2.1 Torsion of a Circular Rod
295(2)
8.2.2 Principle of Torsion Rod Picking Mechanism
297(2)
8.2.3 Acceleration and Deceleration of Picker and Projectile
299(2)
8.2.4 Hypothetical Velocity Profile of Picker
301(1)
8.2.4.1 Uniform Acceleration
302(1)
8.2.4.2 Non-Uniform Acceleration
303(3)
8.2.5 Sequence of Weft Insertion in Projectile Loom
306(3)
8.2.6 Loom Timing
309(1)
8.2.7 Beat-Up Mechanism
310(2)
8.3 Air-Jet Picking System
312(23)
8.3.1 Bernoulli's Theorem
313(2)
8.3.2 Fluid Drag
315(1)
8.3.3 Velocity and Acceleration of Pick
316(1)
8.3.4 Devices to Control the Air Flow
317(1)
8.3.4.1 Guide Plates
317(1)
8.3.4.2 Confusor
317(2)
8.3.4.3 Profile Reed
319(1)
8.3.5 Relay Nozzles
320(3)
8.3.5.1 Types of Relay Nozzles
323(1)
8.3.6 Design of Main Nozzle
323(2)
8.3.7 Weft Storage Systems
325(1)
8.3.8 Loom Timing
326(1)
8.3.9 Effect of Yarn Characteristics on Yarn Velocity
327(1)
8.3.9.1 Yarn Count
327(1)
8.3.9.2 Yarn Hairiness
328(1)
8.3.9.3 Yarn Bulk
328(1)
8.3.9.4 Yarn Twist
328(1)
8.3.9.5 Denier per Filament
328(1)
8.3.10 Air Index
328(2)
8.3.11 Tension Profile of Weft Yarn
330(1)
8.3.12 New Features in Air-Jet Looms
331(1)
8.3.12.1 Programmable Speed Control
331(1)
8.3.12.2 Individual Control of Relay Nozzles
332(1)
8.3.12.3 Adaptive Control System
332(3)
8.4 Water-Jet Picking System
335(3)
8.4.1 Water Quality
336(1)
8.4.2 Water Consumption
337(1)
8.4.3 Loom Timing
337(1)
8.5 Rapier Picking System
338(9)
8.5.1 Classification of Rapier Picking System
339(3)
8.5.2 Displacement, Velocity and Acceleration Profiles of Rapier
342(1)
8.5.2.1 Displacement
342(1)
8.5.2.2 Velocity
343(1)
8.5.2.3 Acceleration
344(1)
8.5.3 Tip Transfer or Dewas System
345(1)
8.5.4 Multicolour Weft Selection
346(1)
8.6 Selvedge Formation in Shuttleless Looms
347(1)
8.7 Multiphase Weaving
348(11)
Numerical Problems
351(7)
References
358(1)
Chapter 9 Beat-Up
359(32)
9.1 Objectives
359(1)
9.2 Sley Motion
359(10)
9.2.1 Sley Displacement, Velocity and Acceleration
359(7)
9.2.2 Sley Eccentricity
366(1)
9.2.2.1 Calculation Related to Sley Eccentricity
367(2)
9.2.2.2 Effect of Sley Eccentricity
369(1)
9.3 Force, Torque and Power Required to Drive the Sley
369(3)
9.4 Analysis of Motions of Various Points on the Sley
372(3)
9.5 Weaving Resistance
375(6)
9.5.1 Cloth Fell Position and Pick Spacing
377(2)
9.5.2 Bumping
379(2)
9.6 Factors Influencing the Beat-up Force
381(2)
9.7 Temple
383(8)
Numerical Problems
384(6)
References
390(1)
Chapter 10 Secondary and Auxiliary Motions
391(32)
10.1 Take-Up Motion
391(9)
10.1.1 Objectives
391(1)
10.1.2 Classification
391(1)
10.1.2.1 Negative Take-Up
392(1)
10.1.2.2 Positive Take-Up
393(1)
10.1.3 Five-Wheel Take-Up
393(1)
10.1.4 Seven-Wheel Take-Up
394(1)
10.1.4.1 Case I: One Tooth of One Gear Is Faulty
395(3)
10.1.4.2 Case II: All Teeth of Any One Gear Are Faulty
398(1)
10.1.4.3 Case III: Any One Gear Is Eccentric
398(1)
10.1.5 Shirley Take-Up
399(1)
10.2 Let-Off Motion
400(7)
10.2.1 Objectives
400(1)
10.2.2 Classification of Let-Off
401(1)
10.2.2.1 Negative Let-Off
401(3)
10.2.2.2 Semi-Positive Let-Off
404(2)
10.2.2.3 Positive Let-Off
406(1)
10.3 Auxiliary or Stop-Motions
407(16)
10.3.1 Warp Protecting Motion
408(1)
10.3.1.1 Fast-Reed Warp Protecting Motion
408(1)
10.3.1.2 Loose-Reed Warp Protecting Motion
408(1)
10.3.1.3 Electromagnetic Warp Protecting Motion
409(1)
10.3.2 Warp Stop-Motion
410(2)
10.3.3 Weft Stop-Motion
412(1)
10.3.3.1 Side Weft Fork Motion
412(3)
10.3.3.2 Centre Weft Fork Motion
415(1)
Numerical Problems
415(6)
References
421(2)
Index 423
Abhijit Majumdar obtained bachelor's degree from Calcutta University in 1995 with first class first position in Textile Technology program. He acquired master's degree in Textile Engineering from Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Delhi in 1997 and doctorate in Engineering from Jadavpur University, Kolkata, in 2006. He also holds an M.B.A. degree from IIT Delhi with specialization in Operations Management.

He has worked in industries like Voltas Limited and Vardhman Group before joining academia. He taught in Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, Berhampore, West Bengal, India, between 1999 and 2007. He joined IIT Delhi as Assistant Professor in 2007. At present, he is working as Associate Professor in textile engineering group. His research areas include protective textiles, soft computing applications and operations and supply chain management. He has completed three research projects funded by Department of Science and Technology (DST) and Council for Scientific and Industrial Research (CSIR), India. He has published 70 research papers in international refereed journals and guided four Ph.D. students. He has edited two books published by Woodhead Publisher, U. K. and authored one monograph (Textile Progress) published by Taylor and Francis.

He is the associate editor of Journal of the Institution of Engineers (India) Series E (Chemical and Textile Engineering) published by Springer. He is a recipient of Outstanding Young Faculty Fellowship of IIT Delhi (2009-2014) and Teaching Excellence Award (2015) of IIT Delhi.
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